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Johnson Evinrude Prop Shaft Removal

Today's video is about disassembling the lower unit for our Johnson 30 horsepower and is proudly sponsored by MarineEngine.com

Johnson Evinrude Prop Shaft Removal – Video Transcript

Hey there, Dingus. Today's video is about disassembling the lower unit for our Johnson 30 horsepower and is proudly sponsored by MarineEngine.com.

Before we do that though another viewer t-shirt for this one here is Anthony Cone from Brisbane so thanks Anthony alright we'll head over to the bench and I'll show you I'm thinking because this lower units leaking at a bare minimum we need to get this bearing carrier out so we can place the oil seal there we also need to get the second oil seal out from the drive shaft the seal puller I've got isn't great it's designed to lever against an edge and the edge is quite thin so I don't really want to use that to get the deeper one it wasn't too bad for the shallow one but it's going to be even worse for the deeper one I've ordered a different style of pours so we'll see when that arrived and so here we go but that's something else we won't need to do as you can see this gearbox is pretty corroded it's got quite a lot of barnacles and things on the bottom of it still as well.

We'll start by popping this back on the lower unit stand then I'll show you what we need to do to get this bearing carrier out off hopefully you can see there's a bolt head inside the gear case there and the right and then there's another one there on the left we need to get both of those undone and then we need to clean these thread wholes enough to put a puller into them and then pull the bearing carrier out the only imperial socket I have are a 3/8 drive and actually don't fit through the gap in the bearing carrier so I'm gonna go to quarter inch drive socket and use a metric one I think they're 5/16 bolts but I'm gonna use an 8 mil socket so far so good feels like it's coming undone just go get myself a little parts tray before I lose them now I've removed the two bolts that hold the bearing carrier in I can use to other threaded holes to pull the whole bearing carrier out to do that I've bought some threaded rod this is quarter inch 20 threads per inch and I'm just going to cut up to short lengths weld some nuts on the end and we'll use this with our puller before we do that though I've also got a tap like this that we can use to clean the threads out and this one obviously is also a quarter inch 20 threads per inch just gonna carefully get this started normally when you're using a tap to cut a thread you'll sort of do a few turns one way bit of a turn back but because I'm just cleaning this right out I'm just gonna mostly be winding it in it's getting a little bit stiffer now so I might need to use the handle but it's not too bad.

All right wind it out now so this is the result you can see quite a bit of Gunks collected and the channels of the tap so this is some of the stuff that's come out so you can see it would have been quite hard to put the threaded rod in without cleaning them first a couple of videos ago people suggested using a bolt or some threaded rod tapering in slightly cutting some grooves in it and making a bit of a homemade tip and that's a good way to go if you don't have one I'm just too lazy I'm quickly now going to put a little bit of oil on the tap and just run it through again now I've got the bulk of the stuff out and that should leave it pretty ready to go so in case you're curious that's the result of a second run-through with a bit of oil on the tap definitely got a bit more gunk out I need to cut the threaded rod about here based on the length of the puller and the prop shaft so I'm gonna wind a nut down to be just a little bit past there so when I cut it I can just pull the nut back off and clean the thread up I went through this in some detail on the video on the Evinrude 150 which unfortunately is a large diameter threaded rod so I'll make this fun really quickly and we'll get on with it I could now just wind this nut off the end to clean the thread up but what I'm actually gonna do is welded on the end here to make it into a long bolt so I've just run it there until it's flush and I'll welded on there then we've still got the factory end to go into the bearing carrier I'm not going to use any filler or anything I'm just going to attack the nut on the end now so I can why the threads into the bearing carrier.

Obviously this one's still a bit hot this one's cooling down it's melted the edge of the hex a tiny amount but it's not going to stop it winding in whatever do now has put a stack of washers below that head so it doesn't pull through on the pull up kind of tempers attack these together just to keep it more steady I think I'll do that.

There's nothing pretty about them just sort of tacked them in places so they stay together it just means that I won't be wrestling with the washers or sliding around while I'm trying to get tension on the pool all right the finished product let's go see if it works just go whined one of these in first going in nicely to our cleaned up threads which is good then I think we're gonna have to whine the second one with the puller in situ I'm going to wind this a fair way in so I don't pull the thread out if I only have a few threads in it's likely to pull out before the Burien carrier comes out all right then we'll whine the puller for your attention last week I put a bit of spray on the Burien carrier and a bit of heat I'm gonna put a bit of heat on it again first we try then we'll put an impact gun on here and see if we can pull it out.

The idea here of course is to try and get that outer section to expand you can come out more easily.

All right we'll get a bit of tension on it then I'll keep eating it's out I'll get this to the bench let it all cool down then we'll push on the ultimate goal here is to completely restore this ski box so I'm gonna be looking at doing oil seals and then the water pump but what I'd also like to do is respray the lower unit because of that what I'm going to do is take the whole prop shaft down as well so that the unit is free and I'll just get it sandblasted can paint it and then we can put it back together well this is our it's probably worth showing that where the threaded rod goes in there actually open threaded holes here so that's where the rod can come out the back there so you can't actually thread them too far in the gearbox here now we just got a thrust washer we can pull out the next thing we need to do if we look on this side as you can see here the two holes for a snap ring so I need to try and squeeze some pliers in and get that snap ring out.

All right there we go these things are under a lot of tension when they're in so just be careful put some safety glasses on or something because if it springs off it could go in your eye now the circle ifs out you can see the retainer plate behind it as flop forward a bit so it looks like that's gonna be pretty easy to pull it out so I'm just taking note this tab at the bottom of it was facing straight down.

What I might do is take this it'll keep her off so we can take this collar off and then we can just rip the shifter itself and twist it because this collar here just spins on the shaft like the upper one this keepers just got a little splitting out here so I'll separate it there and pop that off given there's no flat on to get a tool I'm kind of glad it's just winding out by hand easy enough I guess if it was seized you could maybe get some vice grips or something onto it no there we go I'm just gonna pop the collar back on and put the keeper back on for now the keepers are sort of bit of a one-use thing you're supposed to replace them every time but I'll keep it all together for now just so nothing gets lost next thing is to pull the shifter yoke out that we unscrewed the shift rod from apparently just need long nose pliers and pull it out so let's give it a shot all right came out easy enough the only real trick to getting it out was that I had to push the shift linkage down a little bit I just leave it inside with a screwdriver push it down just so I can get this top section to clear the casing the bottom is a hook like that so once it was down I could pull it out sort of unhooked and came out next thing we need to do is undo this which is the shift lever pivot pin so we're going to take this out and this will allow us to get the prop shaft out this pin is pretty stuck so I'm gonna try an impact driver on just starting the punch.

So gently remove the pivot pin and discard the O-ring I've got a complete lower unit seal kit that we were putting in later on so I presume things like this a ring will be in this kit right now theoretically we can pull the prop shaft out got stuck so a little bit of force but no big deal and quite kindly I'll show you two detent balls and a spring of fallen our T which is great because the service manual says to go grab a magnet and start trying to fish them out so they're nice and easy this time pop these in a little ziplock bag then I'm able to fish out the dog clutch and the shift lever sitting at the back of the gearbox along here is the forward gear and if I reach in to the bottom of it under the pinion gear and pull that up no dramas with that forward gear out the pinion gear can drop down and then that would come out too so while the forward gear was in this was resting like this so I pulled the forward gear out and under which let this drop and then come out as well down in the back there you'll see there's a taper roller bearing that's for the front end of the prop shaft the bearing will fall out but the race will be quite firmly in there so I'll just get the bearing out for now so there we go.

Just a standard taper roller bearer nothing usually special about it next thing I do is just take these two anodes off because the trim tab a node was spinning as I was undoing the nut I'm just going to use a shifted hold still here on this one there's too much corrosion around the bolt to get a socket on it so I'll clean that out first okay Bob from the port side out and then we better just leave or this starboard out no doubt now I want to get this sandblasted.

For better for worse as an experiment obviously I want to minimize any sort of collateral damage that may result in leaks or you know whatever so I'm gonna seal it up as well as I can so that's going to involve putting all my drain plugs the pivot pin Bakke and all that kind of thing so that as few openings to the inside of the case are there for sand to get in and do any sort of damage this is the old bag from when I took the gearcase apart so I've got my drain plugs here being aluminium they may sort of last it instead of sandblasting whatever I'm not too sure but I'll have a chat to the guy when I get there and I'll let you know what he says when I get back so I dropped the gearbox off and Matt I spoke to our local sandblasting guy said he's pretty confident and get it looking pretty good so we'll see how that turns out in a future video I can't recall the stylus video what I said was going to be about because I filmed it weeks and weeks and weeks ago but ultimately obviously all we've done is dismantle it so well call it taking the prop shaft out in future videos we'll get that gear case back and we'll paint it up then we'll start rebuilding put the gearbox back together put the new seals in it put the water pump in reinstall it but unfortunately that's kept away for another thing alright until then take care.