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Honda BF225A No Start Journey

Boat Shop Bud

New member
Hello All,

I just picked up a 225 Honda and started troubleshooting. Cranks fine but wont start. I got a decent Honda manual and have started working through some of the flow charts. before I go any further I'm curious what these 3 wires were for? I found them cut. This is on a bass boat with multiple trim switch locations and that's what I suspect due to wire coloring. but I'm unsure. Here is the photo... Any help would be appreciated!
Honda.jpg
 
Hi,

I'm not saying I know anything useful here, just pointing out a couple of things. My eyes aren't so great these days so I could be waaay off.

You might be right about those wires being for the trim system but the diagram I have lists colors for trim as Lb (light blue), Lg (light green) and Bl (black).

Those two wires look more like green (G) and blue (B) to me. I see that green and blue are used for the crank and cam (tdc) sensors as well as in other areas.

Also, the "snip" is obviously not factory. They would NEVER have left the ends of wires that carry current exposed like that.

Do you know what the other three wires (Y/Bl, W/Gr, R/Bu) are for?

I couldn't find a W/Gr wire on the diagram. But then it could just be the old eyes.

Good luck.
 
Thank you for the reply. In the wiring diagram I have... i haven't been able to find this cluster of 6 wires. White plastic side of the clip runs up the rigging tube toward the helm. But i'm in the dark on the engine harness side (green Plastic clip)
 
Yes, I couldn't find a six wire connector in the schematic with those wires either.
It does list the trim connector as green though. Not sure if that might be a useful clue or not.

But, if those snipped wires are trim circuit then they should be in parallel with other parts of the circuit. So, if you probed the green or blue wire with a meter and activated a trim switch, you should see voltage there. I would only probe with a meter or computer safe test light until I knew for certain what they are connected to though.

Hoping you get it sorted out and post your progress here.

Good luck.
 
The green 6 pin plug is for your gauge and alert system for the old digital gauges, the three wires left uncut are for your warning lights, the pre digital wiring only had a 3 pin plug. This has nothing to do with engine operation. Start by check your lanyard is operational and connected.
 
Start with the basics, do you have spark on all cylinders, do you have compression on all cylinders. If you have these then you have a fuel issue.
 
Perhaps the attached diagram will help. It's for dual engines, but easy to figure out for a single engine. From the diagram, Green (G) wire is fuel pulse and Blue (Bu) wire is for "water in the fuel" which I assume is for the float signal from the onboard fuel/water separator.
 

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  • Electrical Diagram Honda Digital Gauges Dual engines.pdf
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Sorry for the delay, I'm still working on this and I had an opportunity to do the compression test this morning. Results I believe to be subpar. But I will yield to all of you with 4 stroke experience. I uploaded my results in the picture and found it interesting that the two cylinders with less PSI to be in the middle. Most of my experience is with 2 stroke 90-250HP. That being said unless the its thrown a rod or there is a hole in the block I fill like it should still kick over and run. I've had two strokes with worse compression that would still run on the hose then when a load is introduced it just wouldn't put out any power.

I guess while I wait for responses i'll get the timing light out, and start the process of checking spark at each coil.

Thanks for your responses!
 
Sorry for the delay, I'm still working on this and I had an opportunity to do the compression test this morning. Results I believe to be subpar. But I will yield to all of you with 4 stroke experience. I uploaded my results in the picture and found it interesting that the two cylinders with less PSI to be in the middle. Most of my experience is with 2 stroke 90-250HP. That being said unless the its thrown a rod or there is a hole in the block I fill like it should still kick over and run. I've had two strokes with worse compression that would still run on the hose then when a load is introduced it just wouldn't put out any power.

I guess while I wait for responses i'll get the timing light out, and start the process of checking spark at each coil.

Thanks for your responses!
 
What are your compression readings? You don't need a timing light to check spark. Simply remove the coils, use small philips screwdriver to contact the sparkplug side of the coil, create a gap of about 10mm between the screwdriver shaft and the cylinder head and check for a fat blue spark.
FYI these engines will not start with less than 130psi compression. If all comps are low , start by checking the cam timing, these motors do jump teeth on the cambelt if not tensioned correctly
 
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