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Thanks Ian, I’ve already trimmed that seal/grommet. It had definitely swelled into the outlet hole. Pump should be here tomorrow, fingers are crossed.New pump will fix it. When you fit it, cut off the top of the top hat shaped seal, they tend to close up over time causing fuel starvation
Low idle stumble and shake is common with these motors. I found setting the valve clearance to 010" inlet and 012" exhaust.Well I was able to get the injectors cleaned and they seemed to be spraying well, no dribbling or weird spray profiles that I could see. Didn’t really make much of a difference for the stutter. I’m going to buy a new set of spark plugs just to rule them out and then go from there I guess.
I need to check the part # on the o2 sensor to make sure it’s the correct one installed.
If the o2 was acting up the motor should store a code correct? Would the green light on the key switch stay illuminated if there was a problem with it? Maybe I’ll try to pull codes via jumping the red plug.
I’ll get the plugs installed and go from there. Also think it’s time for a new low pressure fuel pump as the diaphragm inside has kind of collapsed on one side. It’s not torn but doesn’t look good.
Would you think I’d have any luck with a decent after market low pressure pump since it’s just a mechanical part and nothing electrical? I don’t believe these Honda pumps are rebuildable. These parts sure can add up quickly. Thanks again
ok I think I get the plugs around Monday so I will take a look then.Okay, the screw you are looking at does nothing to quantity of fuel injected, it is a manual air bypass to allow minimal extra air to increase idle speed slightly, it will not smooth out the idle quality. Good compression does not mean correct valve clearance. I have learnt for experience that slightly bigger intake valve clearance on the 60 and all the v6 motors improves idle quality considerably. The 60s are well known to shake around at idle. Do the valve clearance to the values I gave you and you will see.
Ok I will check this first this weekend, thank you SirI knoe what it's doing, it's common as I mentioned previously. Valve clearance
Thank you Mello, I’d love any and all of your suggestions. It is a 2010 year model. And I got sick friday night and am just now getting over it so I was in bed all damn weekend. This weekend I will be checking it over once again and will report back will valve clearance, if any injectors are leaky etc.What year is your BF50D? I’ve fixed a few issues on mine, and the last thing seems to be a small skip, and shake at idle! I was thinking fuel injectors? Was your valves out of spec?
Thanks.
Well I hope you get to feeling better, and get your issue resolved soon! I’ll just follow along here. Good luckThank you Mello, I’d love any and all of your suggestions. It is a 2010 year model. And I got sick friday night and am just now getting over it so I was in bed all damn weekend. This weekend I will be checking it over once again and will report back will valve clearance, if any injectors are leaky etc.
Do your valve clearance, it's quick and easy and it will improve idle quality. Intake 010" ex 12"What year is your BF50D? I’ve fixed a few issues on mine, and the last thing seems to be a small skip, and shake at idle! I was thinking fuel injectors? Was your valves out of spec?
Thanks.
I’m glad you got better! Now back to work on this mystery motor issue I’ll be following along as I think we’re both at the same point. Injectors , and valve adjustment. Keep us posted!Ok fellas, made a little progress. I believe the big issue now is all 3 injectors are leaking by. I used an inline spark plug indicator light on each plug wire for each cylinder and could not notice any noticeable bad patterns or misfires. The more I was testing with the motor running the darker my plugs were getting and it wasn't taking long. "these were brand new plugs"
The previous plugs were absolutely black but i just thought this was from sitting at the previous owners home and from him constantly trying to get the engine running with that bad fuel pump, but the motor was indeed running rich I believe in each cylinder.
I was able to come to the leaky injector conclusion by taking the intake manifold off while leaving the fuel hose to the fuel rail hooked up and turning the key to the "on" position and letting it prime and watching the injector tips. Each and every time I'd see small bubbles leaching out and a puddle would for rather quickly on the tips. Rather than try and clean them I'm just going to bite the bullet and order new one. $250 but hey if it gets this motor running I'll be fine with that. Does this seem like the right thing to do in your opinions?
I was also able to figure out how to pull the codes on the motor and the first time I guess it had quite a few, I tried to decipher them and write them down but I just couldn't figure out the patterns it was showing. So I went ahead and erased them with the clear procedure and ran the motor for 6-7 minutes and went through the jumper wire diagnostic procedure once again and now the diagnostic light just stays on....Not sure if its supposed to turn off or stay on, so if you have any information on that please share it.
And also iang, I will absolutely be checking the valve clearance once I get the new injectors in. The way these plugs were turning color so fast it seemed to point to a fuel issue and I hope my assumption was correct. My dad is a professional mechanic and hes out of town right now and I kind of dont feel comfortable messing with the valve settings without him here. I understand how to do it but I also know that alot of things can be damaged if not done correctly. So when hes back we will be checking and setting them, thanks again.
I will be updating until I get this thing running right, I'm hoping that something in this thread can maybe help someone else with future similar issues because it can be frustrating and expensive. Probably will have the parts next weeked or sometimes thereafter.
Also thanks mello, I am finally feeling better. Hate being sick.
I don’t want to hijack his thread, but since we are both having similar problems I thought it might help us both! Are “Keinen Injectors” OEM? Also when I pull valve cover should I go ahead and order gasket first? Are the old ones reusable? Also does it need the 3 bond as manual calls for. I only want to fix it once, so whatever I have to do.Thought you said you had serviced the injectors, I'm guessing now you did the youtube clean, not a fan of that, espeacially when they are playing up as a result of stale fuel. A sonic clean would fix them but go ahead a buy new one's , they'll make a big difference. Also just in case, make sure your thermostat isn't stuck open, that'll cause more problems