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2006 Honda 200hp BF200A Constant Buzzee

Witmerben

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Good morning,
Looking for solution to the alarm going off after running the motor for 3 minutes in a tub of water. Constant alarm.
 
Hi,

I don't work on these so take that into consideration.

But I agree that it could be "localized" overheat taking place.

We have seen several instances here about flow problems in the 90° elbow hoses at the ends of the exhaust manifolds on these engines. See items 7 and 8 in the link below;


In addition to those, there's always the possibility of minerals and debris in other areas of the cooling passages and I have seen cases where a faulty electrical water separator caused an alarm.

Good luck.
 
Hi,

I don't work on these so take that into consideration.

But I agree that it could be "localized" overheat taking place.

We have seen several instances here about flow problems in the 90° elbow hoses at the ends of the exhaust manifolds on these engines. See items 7 and 8 in the link below;


In addition to those, there's always the possibility of minerals and debris in other areas of the cooling passages and I have seen cases where a faulty electrical water separator caused an alarm.

Good luck.
Thanks for the feedback!
 
Thermostat has nothing to do with "peeing." Typically, if not peeing either the telltale indicator is plugged, or your water pump has totally failed. First, make sure the telltale hose and nipples are clear. Then drop the lower end and thoroughly inspect the water pump. Make sure that the woodruff key the locks the impeller to the drive shaft is in place and has not slipped out of its position. Last summer I had that happen and had to replace the entire drive shaft.
 
Unless the water pump is nearly new, replace it - not just the impeller, but the whole thing - it's just about $100 more compared to the impeller and gaskets that come with the impeller kit.
 
Thermostat has nothing to do with "peeing." Typically, if not peeing either the telltale indicator is plugged, or your water pump has totally failed. First, make sure the telltale hose and nipples are clear. Then drop the lower end and thoroughly inspect the water pump. Make sure that the woodruff key the locks the impeller to the drive shaft is in place and has not slipped out of its position. Last summer I had that happen and had to replace the entire drive shaft.
Thanks for the advice!
 
I just replaced the water pump, both thermostats, both bypass valves and it was still popping the overtime alarm when running on just water muffs. Pee was there but had to rev the engine to get it to start. Out of frustration I took into the launch (5 min tow) and can testify to the fact that while in the water (gulf warm water) it runs perfectly and pees immediately and strong. I read a lot of posts and believe on my 225 having the lower submerged in the water creates back pressure which pushes water to the top of the motor with good pressure. Read several posts about air lock etc but I'm happy with its performance in real world conditions and I flush with muffs and through the flush port at home.
 
This is very common with the v6 motors. Good water pressure and three inch round muffler work best, all the others leak too much and motor gets insufficient cooling. Also, each time you use your muffler, push the frame back together to ensure good attachment pressure. Do this and flushing will work fine without overheating the motor
 
Ditto on what Ian6766 posted. Even with good muffs properly placed, you need good water pressure. In the US, typical municipal water pressure is insufficient. I run a 3/4" hose directly from my well pump, and that does the job.
 
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