CDI Electronics Outboard Ignition Troubleshooting Guide

67 Johnson/Evinrude Troubleshooting Johnson/Evinrude 2. Short the White/Black temp wire to engine ground and see if the timing drops back to normal. 3. Check the DC voltage on the Black/White wire going to the timer base. With the White/Black temp wire disconnected, the voltage should be 6 to 10 volts. When the White/Black temp wire is shorted to engine ground, the voltage should drop out. If the voltage on the Black/White wire stays in the 6-10 volt range, disconnect the Yellow/Red wire from the power pack. The voltage should drop out on the Black/White wire. If it does, the harness or starter solenoid is likely defective. If the voltage on the Black/White wire stays in the 6-10 volt range with the Yellow/Red wire disconnected and the White/Black wire shorted to engine ground, the power pack is defective. ENGINE IDLING TOO HIGH: 1. Index the flywheel for ALL cylinders. Check ignition timing on all cylinders. If one or more cylinders have advanced timing, replace the timerbase. 2. If the ignition timing on all cylinders is too high, check the flywheel center hub magnet to make sure it’s tight. Look for signs of cracks and bulges in the Brown ferret magnet. Johnson/Evinrude 60° 3 Cylinder Optical Ignition (OIS 2000) Carbureted 1996-2001 Model Years Due to the differences in this ignition system, troubleshooting can be somewhat difficult if you are not familiar with the design. The other Johnson/Evinrude Quick-Start ignitions use stator charge coils and a power coil to provide high voltage and power for the Quick-Start and rev limiter circuits. They require a sensor for triggering and use separate magnets for the high voltage and triggering the sensor. The OIS 2000 Optical system uses the stator charge coil to provide high voltage for the firing of the ignition coils and a power coil to provide power for the electronics, both inside the power pack and sensor. The other Quick-Start models will run the engine without the power coil being connected (of course this will burn out the control circuits inside the power pack). The OIS 2000 ignition has to have the power coil supplying power in order to operate the Quick-Start, S.L.O.W., rev limiter, and provide the firing pulse to the coils. The optical sensor located below the flywheel is fed power from the power pack and sends crankshaft position, cylinder location and direction of rotation back to the power pack. The pack is smart enough to know not to spark if the engine is not turning in the right direction. S.L.O.W. functions reduce the engine RPM to approximately 2500 when the engine over-heats or the no oil warning is activated. Quick-Start (a 10° timing advance) activates as long as the engine RPM is below 1100 and the engine temperature is below 105° F. Quick-Start will also activate for 5-10 seconds each time the engine is started regardless of engine temperature. There are a couple of critical items you should be aware of on these engines. First, the spark plug wires have to be the Gray inductive wires – these are NOT automotive wires. Secondly, the spark plugs have to be the factory recommended QL86C or QL87YC. Use of other spark plugs or wires can cause problems inside the power pack from RFI and MFI noise. Ignition Timing AFTER the engine drops out of QuickStart for Idle is 4 Degrees ATDC. WOT Timing is 19-21 BTDC for the 25 HP and 21-23 Degrees BTDC for the 35 HP. NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER: 1. Disconnect the Port 4 pin connector with the Black/Yellow stop wire FROM THE POWER PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition now has fire, the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch and harness. 2. On electric start models, disconnect the Yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine now has fire, replace the rectifier. 3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM may not allow the system to spark properly. This can be caused by a weak battery, dragging starter, bad battery cables or a mechanical problem inside the engine. 4. Verify the engine is turning in a clockwise direction. If not, see TRIES TO RUN BACKWARDS below. 5. Check the power pack and ignition coil ground wires for corrosion and tightness. 6. Connect a spark gap tester to all cylinders. 7. On remote electric start models, disconnect the boat side harness and connect a remote starter unit. Check for fire. If the engine has fire, check the boat side harness’s Black/Yellow wire for shorts to ground. 8. Remove the flywheel and check the sensor wheel for damage, especially where the top slots are located. Sometimes the wheels will break out where the windows overlap. 9. Check the sensor eyes for dirt, grease, etc. If you have to clean it, use denatured alcohol and a Q-tip. Do not use any other cleaning agent because damage to the optical lens will occur. 10. Check the stator resistance and DVA voltage as given below: