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swivel case/mount frame honda bf 225

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gorantrener

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hello every1. i need to take apart swivel case and mount frame on honda bf 225. when you unscrew 2 upper and lower bolts holding the engine and swivel case, only thing keeping the engine attached to the swivel case is the gear linkage rod. Any idea how to get around this without taking apart to engine to get access to the gear linkage rod from above? is it possible? thanks!
 
Hi,
I probably don't understand your problem as I haven't worked on a 225.

Have you removed the gearcase as you would if replacing the waterpump?

The reason I ask is that would remove the the lower shift rod along with the mainshaft.

I know that the splines for the mainshaft and the crankshaft can get stuck together because of corrosion. Could it possibly be something like that is causing the hang up?

Just trying to help and apologies if this is off base.

Good luck.
 
hi, thanks for the answer. what i have to do is clean/lubricate/possibly change some parts of a mount frame - now inside swivel case. (tried everything else, but steering still very hard to do), so mount frame has to come out of a swivel case. so my idea would be to disconnect engine from the swivel case. i can surely remove the gearcase, but then the main shaft remains connected to the lower gearcase, but shift rod remains connected to the engine on upper part. so i assume, somehow i have to disconnect shift rod from the engine, and wondering is it something easy to do, or do i have to tear the engine apart tp be able to disconnect the shift rod from it? thanks!
P.S. i am aware that removing mount frame from the swivel case is then the next step (using some honda special tools) in my final goal. guess the next question i will post sometimes down the line would be - is it possible to remove mount frame from swivel case without the special tolls used by honda
 
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Is your problem just that the steering is stuck/sticking?

I’ve worked on several outboards with this issue, not a 225, but my 130 and other brands.

Do you have hydraulic or cable steering?

The shaft that travels through the tilt tube area on mine has grease zerks but they only reach the outside of the tilt tube, is that where your problem is, the inside shaft that travels has a rust buildup?
 
NSDON said:
Is your problem just that the steering is stuck/sticking?

I’ve worked on several outboards with this issue, not a 225, but my 130 and other brands.

Do you have hydraulic or cable steering?

The shaft that travels through the tilt tube area on mine has grease zerks but they only reach the outside of the tilt tube, is that where your problem is, the inside shaft that travels has a rust buildup?
Click to expand...
hi, it is cable steering. everything seems ok with the cable itself, also this tilt tube area seems ok, no rust, so i am allmost sure there is rust forming in the area where the lower bushings are, so that is why i think i will be forced to take apart mount rod (i mean steering rod) out from the swivel case
 
I don’t understand what your outboard is not doing to cause a need for repair.

Does it tilt up and down properly?

Does your cable steering turn the engine properly?

Can you completely remove your cable steering at the swivel end?
 
gorantrener said:
hi, it is cable steering. everything seems ok with the cable itself, also this tilt tube area seems ok, no rust, so i am allmost sure there is rust forming in the area where the lower bushings are, so that is why i think i will be forced to take apart mount rod (i mean steering rod) out from the swivel case
Click to expand...
You should have hydraulic steering on a motor this size.
 
NSDON said:
I don’t understand what your outboard is not doing to cause a need for repair.

Does it tilt up and down properly?

Does your cable steering turn the engine properly?

Can you completely remove your cable steering at the swivel end?
Click to expand...
NSDON, simply it is very hard to steer. both hands full power required to steer the wheel. cable steering. everything ok with the cable, swivel case seems properly lubricated (old grease coming out from every hole it is supposed to go out), tried heating the old grease and nothing, so the core of the problem is the mount frame which is inside the swivel case. (mount frame is infact the steering rod inside the swivel case). and i suspect that lower part of the frame is coroded. so to be able to reach the mount frame, i have to take it out of the swivel case which seems to be serious PITA, as it requires power head dissasembly. IANG, am i right? my workflow is correct? of course, the most important detail is that the engine is on distant island where i am running the scuba diving shop, so no authorised dealers in close proximity, so i must gather as many info as i can through this forum. which - i admit- was very very helpfull so far in previous situations. so any wise "do it yourself" idea about my issue is more then welcome. thanks every1
 
Disconnect your cable steering at the engine end, remove the cable completely from the engine end. Can you do that?

If you can do that, does your cable slide easily through the cable sheath when you turn your steering wheel? This means your cable is good.

Also, with the cable disconnected, can you easily grab the outboard and easily turn it starboard and port?

Lang is correct, this is a big heavy outboard to be moving with cable steering. My 1999 weighs about 500 lbs, I’ve debated changing out for hydraulic, but never did it. I’ve had an old 140 and twin 135’s with hydraulic, much much easier to operate than cable.
 
The problem I’ve seen on my Honda and others is the cable end that goes through the tilt tube ceases to slide through due to rust buildup inside.
IMG_2614.jpeg


This is an old cable end I used to help fix mine, these ends are 5/8inches, mine was jammed hard in the swivel tube, I had to pound on the port end to remove the cable end. Once I got it out, I used a drill and drilled out the inside of the swivel tube to remove the rust buildup. I used the old cable end pictured to slide through to make sure I had enough rust removed. I then used marine grease inside the tube to keep future rust at bay. I also used one of those stainless steel Steersman nuts with grease zerk to help with future rust inside the tube.
IMG_2614.jpeg
 
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