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Resetting error code without lanyard - 2002 BF225

rsamsel

Member
Hello all-

2002 BF225

Have a 26 error code. I am told it can be very bad. I'm hoping not.

At this point I just want to reset the error code and hope it was a fluke...a one time thing. It goes off whenever the engine is running. I found the procedure to reset it but it requires a lanyard. I never thought about it before but this boat does not have a lanyard.

Is there any other procedure to reset the code without a lanyard?

Thank you in advance for your help. I am very concerned about this issue and resolving it will be a huge relief.

Rob
 
I think I just replied to this in a PM. However, here it is again...

There should be a lanyard attached to the yoke that holds your kill switch out, if not, attach one for safety. A shoe string will work. However, the lanyard is not the point. You need to operate the kill switch as follows...

Grab the safety lanyard very close to the switch that it is attached to so you can pull it to off and push it to on without losing the lanyard.
• Connect the shunting device (technical term for paper clip.)
• Turn on the key switch.
• Pull the safety switch to "off", then push to "on" five times within 20 seconds from when you turn the key switch on.
* When you get to the fifth time off...you should hear one or two beeps.

The codes are clear. If you did not hear the beeps, try again.

• Turn the key switch off Remove the shunting device and run the engine. Then check for codes again. If all is clear, you may just have had a onetime occurrence. If you do have codes, you will just have to troubleshoot depending on the code number that you get.

Code 26 is the high-pressure oil sensor. If you have access to a shop manual, the testing procedure starts on page 5-96. If you need to get to the sensor itself, you will need to remove one of the heads. However, first see if the green oil-pressure light stays on while you are running the engine.
 
I think I just replied to this in a PM. However, here it is again...

There should be a lanyard attached to the yoke that holds your kill switch out, if not, attach one for safety. A shoe string will work. However, the lanyard is not the point. You need to operate the kill switch as follows...

Grab the safety lanyard very close to the switch that it is attached to so you can pull it to off and push it to on without losing the lanyard.
• Connect the shunting device (technical term for paper clip.)
• Turn on the key switch.
• Pull the safety switch to "off", then push to "on" five times within 20 seconds from when you turn the key switch on.
* When you get to the fifth time off...you should hear one or two beeps.

The codes are clear. If you did not hear the beeps, try again.

• Turn the key switch off Remove the shunting device and run the engine. Then check for codes again. If all is clear, you may just have had a onetime occurrence. If you do have codes, you will just have to troubleshoot depending on the code number that you get.

Code 26 is the high-pressure oil sensor. If you have access to a shop manual, the testing procedure starts on page 5-96. If you need to get to the sensor itself, you will need to remove one of the heads. However, first see if the green oil-pressure light stays on while you are running the engine.
You are incredible in your responses and I appreciate it. I have looked everywhere and don't see a kill switch anywhere. Nowhere on the binnacle. The only things I have are the binnacle/the key with the green and red lights/and the two red MIL lights. I don't think I've ever thought about it but I don't see an e-stop anywhere... Is there a spot on the motor that might be the other end of the e-stop?

Rob
 
It should be on your key switch panel or right next to it. I cannot imagine anyone rigging a boat without an engine kill switch. It's totally illegal to do so.

Here is a picture. It's to the left of the key.
Yeah. My wife just went out to ake a pic. I've got a different setup. I never really thought about the fact it didn't have a kill switch. I'm starting to wonder if it's buried under the dash somewhere.
 
What is that black knob just left of the key? I can't make it out from the picture. There has to be a kill switch somewhere.
 
What is that black knob just left of the key? I can't make it out from the picture. You may need to remove those four Phillips head screws and pull the panel. It is possible that a previous owner cut the wires to the kill switch. It will be a black wire with a red stripe.

There has to be a kill switch somewhere.
 
Not 100% sure but you might be able to clear the codes without the lanyard. I don't think it would hurt anything to try.

It's called the "key dance".

Just follow chawk_man's directions except instead of using the kill switch, turn the ignition switch from off to "on" or "run" (not "start"!) 5 times within 20 seconds ending up at off. Listen for the beeps.

I believe the only thing you could hurt trying this would be the ignition switch or key by getting "antsy" and hurried. If you do it in a frantic way, it's easy to break off the key in the switch. Relax, be deliberate and precise in your movements. 20 seconds is actually a long time relatively speaking.

Don't forget to remove the paper clip.

That is a common code checking/clearing method used on older/first generation fuel injected cars and just might work in this case.

If it doesn't work, there is another way but it's much more complicated and would require a wiring diagram and at least some basic electrical knowledge/understanding.

Good luck.
 
There is a ram mount to the right of the key. In front of the binnacle is the capacity decal. above the capacity decal is I think what you are asking about. It is a on/off switch for a bow search light and there is a silver knob next to it for up/down left/right of that spotlight.
 
If you try the "dance" and it doesn't work, try again only end up in the "on" position and wait for the beeps.

Good luck.
 
Not 100% sure but you might be able to clear the codes without the lanyard. I don't think it would hurt anything to try.

It's called the "key dance".

Just follow chawk_man's directions except instead of using the kill switch, turn the ignition switch from off to "on" or "run" (not "start"!) 5 times within 20 seconds ending up at off. Listen for the beeps.

I believe the only thing you could hurt trying this would be the ignition switch or key by getting "antsy" and hurried. If you do it in a frantic way, it's easy to break off the key in the switch. Relax, be deliberate and precise in your movements. 20 seconds is actually a long time relatively speaking.

Don't forget to remove the paper clip.

That is a common code checking/clearing method used on older/first generation fuel injected cars and just might work in this case.

If it doesn't work, there is another way but it's much more complicated and would require a wiring diagram and at least some basic electrical knowledge/understanding.

Good luck.
Jimmy - the shunt (paper clip) must be in the service connector for this to work, Correct?
 
Not 100% sure but you might be able to clear the codes without the lanyard. I don't think it would hurt anything to try.

It's called the "key dance".

Just follow chawk_man's directions except instead of using the kill switch, turn the ignition switch from off to "on" or "run" (not "start"!) 5 times within 20 seconds ending up at off. Listen for the beeps.

I believe the only thing you could hurt trying this would be the ignition switch or key by getting "antsy" and hurried. If you do it in a frantic way, it's easy to break off the key in the switch. Relax, be deliberate and precise in your movements. 20 seconds is actually a long time relatively speaking.

Don't forget to remove the paper clip.

That is a common code checking/clearing method used on older/first generation fuel injected cars and just might work in this case.

If it doesn't work, there is another way but it's much more complicated and would require a wiring diagram and at least some basic electrical knowledge/understanding.

Good luck.
I tried this. I tried it both with the key and with the battery switch. Neither method worked. It is flashing 26 and beeping whenever the key is on.
 
I checked behind the key switch and didn't see anything obvious. The wires are very tucked and tight. It will take some time to unziptie and try to see what is going on.
 
Jimmy - the shunt (paper clip) must be in the service connector for this to work, Correct?
So I put the wire in the connector so I was seeing the 26 error. I tried several combinations of on and off five times....like starting on starting off ending on ending off etc. Nothing.. just throws 26.
 
Well, it was worth a try.

Yes chawk, I meant with the shunt in place but it's a good point that you make.

The old key dance didn't always require a shunt but I do remember some models had you stand on the brake while doing it. I guess it comes down to what the "strategy" is built into the computer. And we don't know that.

Without the kill switch, he's going to have to "engineer" one.

As you say, the wires are probably there and shouldn't be all that difficult to find but you need the will to dig in and get it done.

Running it till it blows makes me cringe but I can relate to the frustration.

BTHT!
 
Well, it was worth a try.

Yes chawk, I meant with the shunt in place but it's a good point that you make.

The old key dance didn't always require a shunt but I do remember some models had you stand on the brake while doing it. I guess it comes down to what the "strategy" is built into the computer. And we don't know that.

Without the kill switch, he's going to have to "engineer" one.

As you say, the wires are probably there and shouldn't be all that difficult to find but you need the will to dig in and get it done.

Running it till it blows makes me cringe but I can relate to the frustration.

BTHT!
Yeah...I don't think I'm smart enough to read a wiring diagram and engineer a solution. I never even realized I didn't have a tether until this came up. I sure wish it was an easy solution. I missed out on a prepaid big fishing trip this weekend b/c of this issue. Put a ton of work into the boat and now it sits...super frustrating. I tried to look at the oil pressure switch which is what the manual says but you have to pull the entire intake manifold to even get to where the sensor is clipped on.
 
I feel your pain man!

You don't need to be smart to read a wiring diagram.
You just need to be determined.

If that wasn't true, I would have had a career operating a wheel barrow and being very poor instead of repairing big rigs for bucks.

Two wires is all you need to find and you don't even need to hook them to a switch. You can just touch them together 5 times.

But, if it were me, I would definitely put in a kill switch. Especially if you take friends and family with.
....#LIFESAVER!
 
I feel your pain man!

You don't need to be smart to read a wiring diagram.
You just need to be determined.

If that wasn't true, I would have had a career operating a wheel barrow and being very poor instead of repairing big rigs for bucks.

Two wires is all you need to find and you don't even need to hook them to a switch. You can just touch them together 5 times.

But, if it were me, I would definitely put in a kill switch. Especially if you take friends and family with.
....#LIFESAVER!
I'd be happy to add a kill switch....
 
Well, there ya go...
Although I would still feel more comfortable if I had a schematic to consult, those are the two wires in question.

But that connector is likely under the cowl and would be where the harness that runs to your console plugs in.
So, it's important that the harness matches and contains those wires with that color code. Or, if not, the harness contains enough "spare" wires that you could do a hook up with.

As far as installing a kill switch I looked up the parts. You would need to drill one hole in your dash.

The word OPTIONAL is used a lot on that page. Refererence items 8 and 9.
Maybe that's why you don't have one? Like chawk_man, I too thought all "modern" outboards were SUPPOSED to have "drowned man" switches. Maybe not?


Also, Refererence item 16. Good Ol' Honda!
Clever GOUGERS they are! Charge you $80 for the switch and lanyard and another $5 for the nut to hold it on!
Sheesh!
 
Well, there ya go...
Although I would still feel more comfortable if I had a schematic to consult, those are the two wires in question.

But that connector is likely under the cowl and would be where the harness that runs to your console plugs in.
So, it's important that the harness matches and contains those wires with that color code. Or, if not, the harness contains enough "spare" wires that you could do a hook up with.

As far as installing a kill switch I looked up the parts. You would need to drill one hole in your dash.

The word OPTIONAL is used a lot on that page. Refererence items 8 and 9.
Maybe that's why you don't have one? Like chawk_man, I too thought all "modern" outboards were SUPPOSED to have "drowned man" switches. Maybe not?


Also, Refererence item 16. Good Ol' Honda!
Clever GOUGERS they are! Charge you $80 for the switch and lanyard and another $5 for the nut to hold it on!
Sheesh!
I found this but don't itdoesn't tell me anything about where that wire might me.
1684621679892.png
 
Well serious progress. I tore some access panels/cubby walls/storage boxes out and found the kill switch leads. Bl/r wire and a Bl wire leading to nowhere. They were taped off by the PO and left to the side. touched them together 5 times and it reset perfectly. It's been running about 15 minutes now and have not had the code return.
I have shut the motor off and restarted a couple times and one it was beeping when i started it. It had no codes and the green light was flashing. Was looking at the manual trying to determine what that meant but I don't see a reference for it. Shutting the motor off and restarting made it go away.
Oh boats....
 
B.O.A.T.
Stands for?
Break Out Another Therapist!

Yeah, but it's ALL things mechanical really. It's why I ended up with a decent pension and never graduated high school....so I can't complain.

But I am absolutely PROUD of YOU for gettin' in there and findin' them dang wires!
GOOD JOB!

Here's where it gets a little more sticky for you though.

If it keeps flashing the lamp or throws the code again then you have different ways to go and things to consider.

I mean, it could be the pressure switch is fugazzi, it could be the wiring to the switch is faulty or it could actually be low oil pressure.

Another thing it could be is that a small piece of debris or sludge has entered the switch. I have seen that before too.

It might be possible to do rudimentary testing of the sender and the wiring using an ohmmeter without actually gaining access to the switch.
If you have the shop manual, it might even have some instructions on how to do that. Read the troubleshooting section on low oil pressure/ green lamp not on.

But, at some point, you may need to find out exactly what your oil pressure is. Testing it isn't complicated. You hook up a proper mechanical gauge and read it at idle and 2500 rpm.
But preparing to test, especially on this one with the buried oil senders, involves buying a special adapter to hook up the gauge.

Getting this sorted out is doable for a DIYer but it will definitely take some commitment.
 
B.O.A.T.
Stands for?
Break Out Another Therapist!

Yeah, but it's ALL things mechanical really. It's why I ended up with a decent pension and never graduated high school....so I can't complain.

But I am absolutely PROUD of YOU for gettin' in there and findin' them dang wires!
GOOD JOB!

Here's where it gets a little more sticky for you though.

If it keeps flashing the lamp or throws the code again then you have different ways to go and things to consider.

I mean, it could be the pressure switch is fugazzi, it could be the wiring to the switch is faulty or it could actually be low oil pressure.

Another thing it could be is that a small piece of debris or sludge has entered the switch. I have seen that before too.

It might be possible to do rudimentary testing of the sender and the wiring using an ohmmeter without actually gaining access to the switch.
If you have the shop manual, it might even have some instructions on how to do that. Read the troubleshooting section on low oil pressure/ green lamp not on.

But, at some point, you may need to find out exactly what your oil pressure is. Testing it isn't complicated. You hook up a proper mechanical gauge and read it at idle and 2500 rpm.
But preparing to test, especially on this one with the buried oil senders, involves buying a special adapter to hook up the gauge.

Getting this sorted out is doable for a DIYer but it will definitely take some commitment.
Ok...thank you for the warning! I am going to say a prayer tonight that I don't see the error again. I ran it for about a half hour outside both at idle and up in RPMs a bit without a hiccup.

This happened on a shakedown run after a lot of maintenance. Oil change/filter/both fuel filters/new OEM fuel water separator/new external fuel water separator/new thermostats/new thermostat housings (the necks were rotten)/new impellor/lower unit oil...maybe more stuff.

It's a new boat to me at the beginning of last season and I ran it without too many issues and didn't think about it until the beginning of this season. Now that I give it love it hates me back :-/

There are a couple things that could be the cause from what I am seeing online. I put a west marine (might be sierra brand) oil filter on it. I understand from a thread that it may contribute to this warning because it flows different than OEM. I ordered a new OEM filter and will install it in the next day or two. The other maybe maybe is that the oil capacity could have caused it. Having just changed it I added until it was about half up the dipstick. The safe level is very long on the dipstick (like three or four inches). So I added about 3/4 of a quart so it's in the upper 1/3rd of the capacity level. I read a couple posts that sometimes it can slosh just so and cause the alarm. I know this...i have run it for about an hour and I've never seen oil look so good. It is absolutely brand new looking still.

I appreciate your help and if things go well I hopefully wont have to bug you further with issues!

Rob
 
You're not bugging ME!
Most everyone here is willing to listen, learn and help if they can.

Good call on the oil filter. I would only use Wix brand or Honda. But in this case I might just go with Honda to be certain.

Pro tip: pre fill the filter prior to installing. Fill it to the max. If yours sits horizontally and would dump oil all over if you left it full like that, dump it back into the container. While it's best to have it full if possible, in a case like that, just having the filter media pre-soaked with oil is better than installing it dry.
A dry filter at start up is bad for the oil pump and bearings.

And yes, you don't want to "short fill" the oil after draining it. I usually fill at least to the full mark, start and idle while checking for leaks, then shut down, wait a bit and then re-check. Most of the time the level will have dropped a pint or more because of the air that gets purged. Purging the almost empty oil filter, for example, will be the cause for some of that volume. Once you get to know the engine well, you can slightly overfill it and have the level be on the money after it's run, purged and re-checked. Then you can reach behind you and give yourself a pat on the back.

Just never leave it overfull. If it runs overfilled, the oil can be aerated and cause the pump to starve or lose prime. Engines have been badly damaged that way. If you accidentally overfill your crankcase, take the time to drain the excess.

I do hope your Honda doesn't really hate you and that you will ultimately be rewarded for good maintenance and following through with this problem. 🫡
 
Ditto on what JGMO wrote. Good on the OEM oil filter. You are correct about some of the off-market oil filters can cause problems. FYI, the NAPA Gold 1356 also works well. Also, if that engine has a lot of hours on it, say over 1000, consider using Merc 25W-40 FC-W oil the next time and for the rest of the engine's life.

If you post the first five digits of your engine SN, I will post a chart of known BF 225 issues by model number.
 
Man I appreciate it guys. I just got done repacking bearings and I'm covered in grease...nice to have friendly messages after a messy job! I have high hopes. I also ordered an emergency kill and will get it installed. I'm a snowmobiler and we are notorious for not wearing our lanyard but I'll try! My snowmobiles have a hair tie under them so they can't ever shut off :-/

I was super upset about how the shakedown run went b/c I missed a halibut trip this weekend...but this made up for it. Thank you very much for the advice and listening to my call for help.

Hopefully I'll have good news tomorrow night.

Rob
 
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