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Picking up my boat with brand new BF250 - advice?

G

grey2112

Contributing Member
OK, this will be my second boat - first was a 2003 KeyWest 196 Bayreef with 2-stroke Johnson 150 on it.

New boat is a 2001 Cobia 250WA that has just had a brand new 2013 BF250 installed with 30" shaft.

So, other than following the owner's manual, doing the break-in, and taking it in for scheduled service, what else should I do to ensure many years of worry-free service?

Should I always and only use ethanol free fuel? Any additives I should always use (Marine Stabil, Startron, etc.)? Any yearly maintenance items that should be replaced even though it doesn't say to in the manual?

I have a 138 gallon tank and didn't know if I should keep it filled or not - with an expected MPG of 2.5-3.0, and me not going out too far at least for the first month or two, I doubt I'll go through more than 30-40 gallons of fuel a month for the first month or two.
 
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From here, it sounds like you pretty much know the ropes. Your concern about fuel quality and how to utilize it says you have been paying attention. Yes, I would avoid ethanol if possible. But that is not always doable. If you are forced to burn the stuff in order to have fun, there are good additives that you can use to "modify" the "corrosive" effects these mixes can have. Lucas makes a good one and there are others.

With that big a tank, you are inevitably going to miscalculate consumption at some point. So, having a plan for proper storage, as in dumping in the StaBil, or a pre planned method for using it up in other vehicles I would say is a must. Get your transfer system ready for that trip that gets cancelled just after a fill up. That's too much $$ to have sitting around in the garage anyway. Use it up elsewhere and buy fresh later.

As far as your outboard is concerned, a weather eye on it in the break-in period is essential for keeping something disastrous from happening right out of the gate. Check under the hood much more often at first than you would usually do. A new engine might consume a bit more oil initially than one that has been broken in so check that often as well.

Watch carefully for leaks at the power head and at the prop seal and transmission case. The people at the factory don't always get it right and sometimes things can be left loose. You've heard of the Friday night lemon haven't you?

Your added vigilance during the first few hours could pay off big in catching something minor before it becomes major. Constant checks also tend to give you "muscle memory" for doing the "chores" and you become very familiar with "what's right" quicker. Much more so than the skipper that just hops on and drives until first service is due.

Other than that, I would say you are all over it when you say you'll be sticking with your owner's manual and recommended service intervals.

Congratulations on getting something that I bet almost all of us would love to play in!
 
When I researched outboard engine longevity several years ago I found that it is highly dependent on the size engine, usage environment, and most importantly, maintenance. I bought my Honda 225 in early 2008 with the expectation of getting at least 3000 hours. The US Coast Guard regularly was getting 5000 to 6000 hours out of the big Hondas. I follow the maintenance schedule as published with some exceptions – see below.
At 250 hours my dealer found metal filings in the block. It was a manufacturing fault – the engine was not properly flushed after milling. Honda replaced the block and oil pump under warranty. Since then, everything is working fine. I’m at 1500 hours.
My usage rate is around 250-300 hours per year in salt water, with a lot of 30 minute to 1 hour runs at WOT or near WOT to get to the fishing grounds, then lots of trolling from 700 rpm to 2100 rpm.
One mistake I made when I first got the engine. After the break-in period, I still took it easy on the engine, mostly keeping it under 5000 rpm on those long runs. When they tore down the engine to replace the block, the mechanic pointed out that the engine had not been broken in well. HDS revealed I had less than 2 hours at WOT. After break in,you should run the engine at WOT as much as possible over the next 100 - 150 hours in order to fully seat the rings and valves.
Other lessons learned - applies to bigger engines.
1. The very best thing you can do for your engine is run it as often as you can. The more its run, the better it performs.
2. Replace (or at least remove and inspect) plugs at 200 hours, not the 400 recommended by Honda. After 400 hours, plugs have a tendency to get stuck in the head and cannot be easily removed. At every 100 hour maintenance, I remove the plugs and apply a light coat of marine grease to the threads.
3. Be religious about changing the oil. When you change oil at every 100 hours, always replace the filter, unlike the 200 hour oil filter change Honda recommends.
4. Change the water pump impeller every 200 hours, especially if operating in salt water or shallow water conditions. Actually, I usually replace the whole water pump –it’s not much more expensive and it assures I’m getting maximum cooling because I’m not dealing with wear on the pump sides.
5. Install a Racor filter & fuel/water separator in the gas line before the pump up bulb - that does a lot to keep your onboard fuel/water separator and fuel filters clean and trouble free.
6. Use an additive in your gas to prevent phase separation of the ethanol laced gas.
7. If you are doing a lot of trolling or low-speed futzing around, use a decarbonizer/cleaner in your fuel, like Sea Foam or YamaLube Ring Free.
 
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Took the Pickled Pelican out for the first time today with the new motor. This is also the very first time I have been at the helm. The trailer worked great (thanks Owens and Sons), the electronics worked great (thanks Simrad!), and the motor worked great (thanks Honda!)
I am doing the break in and the conditions were choppy, but at WOT and me not yet proficient with trim I got her up to 39 MPH at 6000 rpms. When I was at about 4400 rpms at 28 mph I was getting 3 MPG according the fuel flow rate computer.
Engine is QUIET - I mean, at idle you don't even know it is on - scary. Decent hole shot as well to get up on plane.
And let me tell you something - the Simrad NSS7 units are the bomb - I've got them hooked up to the motor, the new Honda NMEA gauges, GPS antenna, Sonic Hub, and soon the WiFi module as well. The touch screens are so intuitive and easy to use.




 
I've been working at honda marine dealer for 10 years.
but i got a brand new suzuki 250 on mine, mpg on my boat ? Well i never checked.
I used to pay 9 $ a gallon from where. I used to be, i pay 4 $ now.. I m in heaven..
 
Talklessridemore said:
Looks good..
I always use fuel stabil..- blue bottle,.it really helps.
fuel filter is located outside .. Is there any reason for that ?
Click to expand...

Used to be located inside the bilge which was difficult to get to for checking it for water as well as pumping the priming bulb. This location is much better.
 
UPDATE - just took her in for her 100 hour service - 10 months for 100 hours, hoping to increase that a lot more this year. Has been performing perfectly - no issues or problems at all.
 
Taking in for 200 hour service now - anything special to have them do? Did Honda solve the driveshaft/bearing issue? I'd read where when you change an impeller you need to lube up the driveshaft and bearing or else it can gall and have a catastrophic failure of the shaft and housing.
 
I'm not sure whether or not any have been issued on the 250, but ask the dealer. If there have been SB's issued, ask the dealer to let you read them. (Better yet, get a copy if he will do that. Most will not.)
 
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