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faztbullet said:
Need software to see if injectors are firing....could be damaged or stuck.
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Good point --- I am accumulating more tools as I proceed with this project -- I have ordered a fuel pressure gauge to verify the pressure from the fuel pump -- also a vacuum gauge and a timing light (should get it by Friday 12/09) --- having some software to assist with problem identification would be helpful ---- never used this type of engine software -- if I can find the software -- will have to figure out how to use it --- nothing like getting your hands dirty as a learning process

My thoughts regarding injectors --- when attempting to start the engine does act as if it is not getting fuel -- if there if fuel is present -- it should fire ---I did attempt squirting some gas in the ports and I did other cylinder to fire --- Plus it back fired with each attempt -- back fire maybe the result squirting fuel in ports -- but it may indicate that the timing is off -- maybe very off --- thus the the timing light might help ---

Injectors stuck is a real possibility --- how are injectors cleaned/unstuck --- The motor has been sitting up for a very long time and the small ports can get gummed up
 
Timing does get off as CPS(crankshaft position sensor) looks at raised embosses on flywheel nd I syncs wit EMM after about 1 turn, If its bad it won sync and start thus software needed again to test. Software can manually fire each injector to test if working and if injector is bad get out billfold as about $600 ea if you can find one. Also if high pressure pump is bad that will set you back a $1000....this is why no one repairs these old ficht motors as you can put $2500 in a $1500 engine.
 
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Here is the best advice you will get from a paid professional with many, many years of experience. STOP BEATING THIS DEAD HORSE!

Do not spend one more dollar on this POS engine. Save your money and purchase a good used Johnson with carbs or a newer ETEC to replace it.

If you polish this turd when you are done it is still a POS.

"It has a 2000 Evinrude E150FPXSIF on it and and I think it will be a good motor in spite of a lot of negative press."

Ignoring the professional community is a common thing on this website.

Here are some for sale.

http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/boa/5905695981.html
 
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I still want to know what is wrong with it.

He sprayed fuel in the TB throats, tried starting, and it backfired. That, combined with the fact it will not start and run at all, says MAYBE the flywheel has sheared the key and it is way off time.

Correct me please, but I do not think this fault will generate a fault code. The CPS is still sending signals, so no code for a bad CPS signal.

I have advised him by phone to pull #1 plug and probe with a thin screwdriver for TDC on the #1 piston. If timing pointer, piston position are good, that gets us in the ballpark for correct timing.
I have also advised him to get a timing light and try to get on an injector harness with the pickup to see if the injectors are firing.

If he has good spark timing, spraying gas in the TB throats should have kicked it off in a burst until the gas ran out. It didn't, it just backfired.
 
One thing for certain, if he has a bad injector, he will never get coefficients for any injector purchased as used (EBay for example), and Evinrude will not give them out.
 
OK, I have looked at the parts pages, and I see what looks like a flywheel that BOLTS to the top of the crankshaft flange with 5 bolts.
This is different from what I expected regarding the flywheel key, etc.

I am also guessing that the holes for bolts used to bolt the flywheel on are not symmetrical, thereby preventing the flywheel from being installed incorrectly.
IS THAT THE CASE?

There is also a "flywheel roll pin" shown. Is this acting like a key?

I have never had the lid off a 150/175 before.....
 
You really would have had a hard time finding a worse project motor. Almost no factory support for it or none to speak of. Parts are scarce and electronic parts are not interchangeable with out the factory software. To put this into perspective I can get parts for my 1961 McCulloch 75 hp easier than I can find GOOD Ficht parts. POST #34 says everything you need to know about this motor. It was not a good motor new and it definitely does not get better with age.
 
The pin positions the flywheel for proper timing.----------I do not believe you can shear all the bolts on this wonder of motors.-----That is I wonder why some one would spend money on one.
 
Flywheel is bolted in place and would have to shear bolts and pin to get out of time,60 degree is different than 90 degree. Stop and start looking for a running different engine...heck the EMM still could have problems or when it fried could have took out the 3phase rectifier which is $800 if you can find one as NLA
 
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I am getting close to stopping this endeavor and start and parting out --- But I am going to try to find out what can about this motor.
I have been able to get a timing light – fuel pressure gauge --- so I can test those --- I have also pulled the plugs and determined TDC --- from #1 cylinder (# 1 is the top port side cyl) I have taken some Pixs that may help --- the white stix marks TDC --- also take a look at silver plate beside the flywheel– it is marked V4 --- does this indicate that this is a for a V4 motor but on V6 motor?? I have not been able to upload the pixs --- is a special permission required to do this??
Tks again for all the help
 
OK, folks I have been off the site for a couple of months but I have still been working on this motor and consulting with daselbee both by email and phone.
With his advice and guidance I checked spark plugs receiving fire – fuel – compression – fuel pressure – a long list of items ---- daselbee still was convinced this was a timing issue --- the motor would turn over fire on one cylinder then kick off --- tried squirts of gasoline into the ports – I could get what sounded like a couple of cylinders firing and backing firing through the exhaust.
Well today daselbee and I was on the phone discussing what had been done and what the next move might be. Daselbee still felt it was a timing issue --- but how could be off and how to check ---- I had a timing light so I plan to check with that --- our next thought was that the spark wires might be switched – I had not checked wire placement -- turned out that was it ----- the wires on 1 & 3 were switched and the ones on 2 & 4 were switched --- changed them around and it cranked right up.
Thanks Daselbee for hanging in there with me. You know your stuff.
I still have a some repairs to complete – replace the water pump --- check out and possibly reseal the foot and few other things but the engine does crank and run. I will keep you guys posted.
 
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Thats good news. I've been having issues with my 98 Johnson 150 running. I'm in the Acworth area. Don't have any experience with your motor, but I do on the Johnson. Lower unit issues too. If you need any help, I'd be willing to lend a hand, as I'm not far from you. I just removed my lower unit, to send off for repair.
 
Davem02 said:
Thats good news. I've been having issues with my 98 Johnson 150 running. I'm in the Acworth area. Don't have any experience with your motor, but I do on the Johnson. Lower unit issues too. If you need any help, I'd be willing to lend a hand, as I'm not far from you. I just removed my lower unit, to send off for repair.
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I a new guy to outboard repair -- this is my first repair experience -- with any outboard. It is always good to meet new people with like interest. I will PM you with email and see what develops -- I live off hwy 20 between C'ville and Canton --- I will be out of town starting on Friday AM for about 2 wks --- When I get back we will try to touch base. Tks GG
 
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