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How to care for an OD during winter use

B

BassAckwards

Contributing Member
I see alot written about Winterizing this time of year, but, this is my first outdrive. I usually smallmouth fish and catfish all winter. My Searay 185 is a huge step up from a Jon boat so I 'm really looking forward to winter fishing in nice warm boat. Maybe every other weekend if conditions are ok. I store my boat outside in elements, trailered and covered. Should I fabricate some kind of antifreeze Bucket and run AF through muffs after every trip? Is draining the water out with the driver lowered sufficient to sit for a week in the winter?
 
There is no use and let sit and reuse a I/O in the winter..........

Not unless you know how to winterize it properly each and every time.


If you get 2-4 days of sub freezing temps you will crack the block, manifolds and possibly more.

This is why most in cold regions winterize and park it until spring.




Winterization for a merc V8 or V6 or inline 4 Cyl.


1. Add appropriate amount of Stabil to gas tank.
2. Remove lower unit oil fill plug and check for water contamination. If oil looks good reinstall plug. If oil is milky or water comes out, outdrive must be serviced to find bad seal.
3. Hook up water hose to ear muffs and attach to outdrive and make sure outdrive is lowered almost all the way down.
4. Turn on water at hose.
5. Start engine and let run for 30 minutes at ~ 1000 rpms.
6. Turn engine off.
7. Turn water off and remove ear muffs.
8. Remove motor water plugs, right side and left side of engine near center and near oil pan.
9. Poke thru with small screw driver to loosen up all cast and rust so the water flows out steady.
10. Remove the plugs in the manifolds, it is under the manifold ¾ of the way back towards the back of engine, poke it clear so the water comes out in a steady stream.
11. Remove the LARGE water hoses in the front of the engine where it attaches to the top of thermostat housing. These feed the ELBOWS.
12. Remove the incoming water hose (the one coming in on the right hand side that comes from the transom and goes thru the power steering cooler. Also remove the LARGE hose that is U shaped from the engine water pump to the thermostat housing (remove from the thermostat housing side only and after engine blocks has drained, twist the hose down towards he bilge to drain any remaining water).
13. When the water has drained out of the block and the manifold reinstall the plugs. DO NOT over tighten them just good and snug.
14. Have 1 gallon of RV antifreeze ready, pour ¼ of it into the two hoses and it will go directly into the exhaust elbows/manifold. Pour ¼ of it into the incoming water hose SLOWLY and make sure you hear it come out the outdrive!!! This back flushes the incoming water thru the power steering cooler if present and the transom assembly thru outdrive (you may have to raise the hose up several inches to allow the antifreeze to flow). Pour the rest into the LARGE hose that was removed from the thermostat housing, this goes straight into the motor.
15. Reinstall all the hoses and tighten the clamps.
16. Raise the outdrive to trailer position.
17. Unhook battery and you are done!!

This applies to most V8 amd V6 cylinder mercruiser engines RAW WATER (not closed cooling systems)

If you really want to use the boat throughout the winter then you only need to drain the block and manifolds and force some antifreeze thru the incoming water hose to flush the power steering cooler and outdrive of any fresh water.

But beware that if not done each and every time you run the risk of cracking something if it freezes....
 
kghost said:
There is no use and let sit and reuse a I/O in the winter..........


If you really want to use the boat throughout the winter then you only need to drain the block and manifolds and force some antifreeze thru the incoming water hose to flush the power steering cooler and outdrive of any fresh water.

But beware that if not done each and every time you run the risk of cracking something if it freezes....
Click to expand...

Wouldn't running AF through the muffs get into the manifold and block as well? I'm not familiar with the cooling system on this motor yet, but other than drawing water in from the lower unit, how else is cooling performed? I envision keeping a bucket of an anti freeze mixture in small drum with a hose and simply catching it as it comes out and reusing it again. Maybe use a block heater as well since they seem pretty reasonably priced. You think the manifolds and block would still be at risk?
 
DO NOT leave the drive in the UP position. There is no need to place the drive shaft bellows in this type of under-side stress.
Leave the drive in the down position, and extend the life of these bellows.



BassAckwards said:
Wouldn't running AF through the muffs get into the manifold and block as well? I'm not familiar with the cooling system on this motor yet, but other than drawing water in from the lower unit, how else is cooling performed? I envision keeping a bucket of an anti freeze mixture in small drum with a hose and simply catching it as it comes out and reusing it again. Maybe use a block heater as well since they seem pretty reasonably priced. You think the manifolds and block would still be at risk?
Click to expand...

Read this regarding introducing AF into the system via the seawater path. This is NOT a good idea for average Joe.


Electric heat protection will be only as good as your guarantee that you will not undergo a power outage.
Be careful if you choose to do this.

I would suggest that you leave all of your removed drain plugs in a baggy zip tied to the helm wheel.


.
 
Not for a novice, usually too much trouble for the pros... Where I boat, freezing is an issue and the diehard winter fishermen mostly have a second boat, typically a small o/b powered boston whaler for this purpose... i.e., a clone of your john boat :). Being cold is one of the "joys" of winter fishing. You were asked if you had a closed (fresh water) cooling system, i.e., does your engine have a heat exchanger . If it does, you can more simply re-winterize your rig after each use, HOWEVER, you can't reuse your antifreeze since repeated uses will dilute the A/F with the sea water already in the engine and raise its freeze point to uselessness quite quickly, possibly after the first use.
 
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RicardoMarine said:
DO NOT leave the drive in the UP position. There is no need to place the drive shaft bellows in this type of under-side stress.
Leave the drive in the down position, and extend the life of these bellows.





Read this regarding introducing AF into the system via the seawater path. This is NOT a good idea for average Joe.


Electric heat protection will be only as good as your guarantee that you will not undergo a power outage.
Be careful if you choose to do this.

I would suggest that you leave all of your removed drain plugs in a baggy zip tied to the helm wheel.


.
Click to expand...


Uggggggggg TMI AF TGIF WTF...............really a baggie!

The rubber does not care where it is or why................at least the last Ho I had didn't think so..............

Electric WHAT? where did that come from..............I did not read anything regarding electric heat protection or power outages, Geese!
No value added AGAIN!
Oh and if you are visiting AMAZON for reviews on winterizing a marine engine...............I would rethink commenting on any of this!! try real world experience!


Leave your outdrive in any position you want to AS I DO AND HAVE DONE FOR MORE THAN 20 YEARS and have done on many hundreds of others for the same amount of time!!!

If you want to introduce antifreeze, only thru the outdrive (NOT "AF")(another stupid acronym)....................then go ahead and hope you do it correctly and hope all the water is expelled.

Some do and have no issues............some do and replace the engine blocks and manifolds............your choice!!

As I said, if you just remove the drain plugs on the block (make sure you poke thru the cast iron build up so the water drains out on both) and the plugs or lower hose on the manifolds and back flush the incoming water line and empty the LARGE water hose from motor water pump to thermostat housing you should be good (Each and every time you use the boat) in the winter if you will see below freezing temps..........And do not for any reason put the plugs in a baggie..............that is for marine businesses who have warranty concerns when winterizing not for the individual boat owner and not for me who winterizes hundreds of boats each and every year.

The procedure I posted in post 2 is exactly what is required and is exactly what I have done on THOUSANDS of pleasure boats under 24 ft in length used in cold climate environments for the last 25 years+. I have never had a failure................Never.
 
Is draining the water out with the driver lowered sufficient to sit for a week in the winter?
Click to expand...

Ayuh,.... Air just Don't Freeze,....

If ya drain both sides of the block, both manifolds, 'n pull the Big hose off the circulatin' water pump, yer good to go below freezin', safely,....
The motor, 'n manifolds will be dry, leavin' the drive down, will drain it,....
 
.........................
kghost said:
Uggggggggg TMI AF TGIF WTF...............really a baggie!
No comment..... if Jack doesn't understand this one, well..................

The rubber does not care where it is or why
That is absolutely incorrect!
Rubber or like compositions that are folded or bent out of normal shape, will take a "set" over time. This "set" often causes fatigue that results in small fissures or fractures. IOW, causing this accelerates the eventual failure of the component.

For those of us who are perhaps more into the science of this, and who are perhaps more experienced, we understand the "why" we do not want to do this!


Electric WHAT? where did that come from.............. I did not read anything regarding electric heat protection or power outages, Geese!
Put your eye glasses on ...... this was related to Kim's post #4. I assumed that electricity would have some involvement in the "heating" of heated storage.
If you know that the heated storage was wood-fire produced, then I stand corrected!

And by the way..... what do Geese have to do with this? Don't they fly south for the winter??? :D


No value added AGAIN!

Oh and if you are visiting AMAZON for reviews on winterizing a marine engine...............I would rethink commenting on any of this!! try real world experience!
Jack, you have misunderstood the reason for my Amazon write up, of which has caused you to entirely miss the point.
I won't bother explaining it to you, but I'll bet that the rest of the guys got it!

However, I will give you 25 points for using the term "Engine"! Good job..... kudos!


Leave your outdrive in any position you want to AS I DO AND HAVE DONE FOR MORE THAN 20 YEARS and have done on many hundreds of others for the same amount of time!!!
Do what you want with your own boat...... but that's a disservice to anyone would may trust your judgement regarding their boat!

If you want to introduce antifreeze, only thru the outdrive (NOT "AF") (another stupid acronym)
AF would be an "abriviation"....... not an "acronym"! (an acronym offers a phonic value)

.................... then go ahead and hope you do it correctly and hope all the water is expelled. Some do and have no issues............some do and replace the engine blocks and manifolds............your choice!!
Congratulations........ You get another 25 points! ;)

This is Precisely why I challenged the Amazon advertisement and took advantage of their "customer review" option!
If you were to read my write-up, you may have a better understanding of why I felt the need to comment.
Every Spring these unsuspecting users learn that these Winterizing Kits did do what they had hoped for.


As I said, if you just remove the drain plugs on the block (make sure you poke thru the cast iron build up so the water drains out on both) and the plugs or lower hose on the manifolds and back flush the incoming water line and empty the LARGE water hose from motor water pump to thermostat housing you should be good (Each and every time you use the boat) in the winter if you will see below freezing temps..........And do not for any reason put the plugs in a baggie..............that is for marine businesses who have warranty concerns when winterizing not for the individual boat owner and not for me who winterizes hundreds of boats each and every year.
Jack, why is it that YOU can repeat yourself, but according to YOU if I repeat something, it's agravating to you?
Pot calling Kettle black perhaps????


The procedure I posted in post 2 is exactly what is required and is exactly what I have done on THOUSANDS of pleasure boats under 24 ft in length used in cold climate environments for the last 25 years+. I have never had a failure................Never.
Good for you! That's the goal.
You were simply challenged regarding leaving the drive raised up during the lay-up. This is not adviseable, and you now know why!
Click to expand...


Again, I beg you Jack .......... Keep your disgruntled attitude to yourself.
Stop disrupting threads with this ill attitude of yours. It does nothing to help the OP....... Nothing!!!!






.
 
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I must applogize........ Major correction to my last post..... this should have read:

Every Spring these unsuspecting users learn that these Winterizing Kits did NOT do what they had hoped for.



 
Drain everything....oil,coolant,water,ATF. Then put a big sign on it that says ALL FLUIDS DRAINED. In March, refill everything. Can't go wrong that way.
 
fastjeff said:
Looks like OBs have several advantages over I/Os after all. Never thought of this one, however.

Jeff
Click to expand...

Yes outboards do have an advantage in this situation. They are for the most part 100% self draining when in the full down position.

I/O's need additional work.

Some of the newer I/O's have a one central pull "cable" I believe that drains all water holding components.

I do not have any experience with these yet so I can not say how reliable they are.

If one really wants to use there I/O boat over the winter it may be good to research a one way type of draining system.

Which would also require new hoses and fittings so no water is left to settle horizontally.

Other than that his system due to its year will require some work to use it during cold weather and keep it from freezing.

In the end, my method only takes about 10 - 15 minutes.........in the big picture that is not much effort to keep it from freezing.
Also remember that the motor will be warm after use so it will be a bit more comfortable handling the draining vs waiting a day or two.


WHat I would do is replace any brass drain plugs with large plastic ones used on newer versions for ease of use....makes it even easier....
 
IF the engine is fresh water cooled, i.e., has a heat exchanger with antifreeze in the block, and IF the raw water pump is engine mounted
THEN
Inline with the raw water line before the raw water pump plumb a 1/4 turn valve, in line with a "T" fitting with a garden hose valve on the third leg allows one to "winterize" the cooling system quite quickly and simply.
Shut 1/4 turn valve, hook up a short section of garden hose (3 to 5 ft) to the garden hose fitting. Open garden hose fitting. Put other end of hose into a 5 gal pail with about 3 gal of antifreeze in it. Run engine... when exhaust water is solid pink ( assuming you use the pink stuff), shut engine off. On my rig with fiberglass mufflers inside and dual thru transom exhaust ports, that is about 2 1/2 gallons before it runs "solid pink" on both sides.
 
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sandkicker said:
IF the engine is fresh water cooled, i.e., has a heat exchanger with antifreeze in the block, and IF the raw water pump is engine mounted ......THEN

Inline with the raw water line before the raw water pump plumb a 1/4 turn valve, in line with a "T" fitting with a garden hose valve on the third leg allows one to "winterize" the cooling system quite quickly and simply.
Shut 1/4 turn valve, hook up a short section of garden hose (3 to 5 ft) to the garden hose fitting. Open garden hose fitting. Put other end of hose into a 5 gal pail with about 3 gal of antifreeze in it. Run engine... when exhaust water is solid pink ( assuming you use the pink stuff), shut engine off. On my rig with fiberglass mufflers inside and dual thru transom exhaust ports, that is about 2 1/2 gallons before it runs "solid pink" on both sides.
Click to expand...




Bob, great explanation. You have clearly described the only scenario in which this method is safe for average Joe, and that is for use on an Engine with a Closed Cooling system.
With a CCS, the risk of AF dilution (by residual seawater in block/heads) is all but non-existant, and engine thermostat opening status is a moot point!


.
 
Inline with the raw water line before the raw water pump plumb a 1/4 turn valve, in line with a "T" fitting with a garden hose valve on the third leg allows one to "winterize" the cooling system quite quickly and simply.

Thats if the manifolds are closed cooling also.Except for the fact that you do not know IF enough A/F was introduced and not diluted.The only way the "in the intake hose" works is if you DRAIN EVERYTHING FIRST.
The drive or outboard must be stored completely down so water is not trapped in the lower housing.
 
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It would be extremely rare for a 4.3 to have a closed cooling........................in an 18 ft pleasure boat.

Not likely in this case.

If it were the case none of the above would have been written.........Or copied and pasted in some cases.,
 
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So, i got home one day this week about 45 minutes before the sun set, and with this thread in hand ( and a handy Ytube video someone made of my exact motor ) I went to work. First off, I was very surprised how much water is 'held' inside the motor when not running. Seems every screw you turn, out pours gallons of water. So after I drained it, I slapped a 300w block heater on it and covered her back up. I do plan to continue working on it, and hopefully taking her out over the winter and early spring, so I opted not to backflush with AF and/ fog the fuel intakes. We got hit with several days of 20deg mornings, so I was in a nick of time with this. Thanks again to you all, and I'll keep this thread handy to ensure I don't miss anything each time I put her back to bed.

~mike
 
BA, the single point drain systems have caused some people trouble. These systems do not allow for probing of the individual drain ports.
When we open up the s/p drain system, one or more of the individual ports may be rust scale clogged. If so, we can not determine how much water came from this or that component's drain port.
If rust scale is preventing any one drain port from expelling ALL water, we risk freeze expansion and severe damage to that component that may not have completely drained.

I have replaced perfectly good engines (minus the huge freeze crack) from this very same system not working as planned. One engine had been Winterized by a well known shop. Apparently that mechanic gave no thought to rust scale.

I would encourage anyone, with a single point drain system, to give it some thought, or to perhaps remove it and go back to individual drain plugs.



.
 
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