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honda outboard flading

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jasoncalleja

Regular Contributor
Hi today went out with my rib with Honda bf90d and while was ruining at about 5300rpm engine stopped. i thought that i may have had a rope around the propeller when i trimed out the motor i noticed that water was coming out from the cowl i lowerd the motor and opened the hod and a Lott of water came out i noticed that the engine was all wet i tried to restart but engine was hard to turn so i puled spark plugs and gave him some turns and water come out from the pistons. after i towed up the rib i dismantled all the engine covers and found that pie pipe was stuck so this was the caused the engine flood i gave the engine a good wash with fresh water and soap and dismantled all wiring plugs gave them a good water repellent and a good air blow and reassembled all i also sprayed penetrating oil in bore and in the air intake and sprayed a Lott too under the fly wheel i also opened the head cover to check for water in the head after assembled all the motor and a lot of water repellent all over the engine i started the motor and run good now i will replace engine oil to be sure that all water is drained completely. do you think i have to do any other maintenance or just back to the sea and go
thanks Jason
 
Hi Jason,
Can you explain what a "pie pipe" is? I suspect you mean the water pump tell tale but??

If your engine ingested that much water you will be lucky to get away with no damage. Many times a "hydro lock" such as you experienced can cause rods to bend. You may want to perform a compression test to verify if anything like that happened.

Other than changing the oil and filter, I would drain the carbs and spray WD-40 into each one. Make sure you leave the spark plugs out while doing this and turn the engine over several times before putting them back in.

If the engine is fuel injected (you don't say) then take the IAC (idle air control) valve off and spray WD 40 (moisture displacement) into the valve and the throttle valve and intake while, again, having the spark plugs out. Rotate the engine several times before replacing plugs.

Unplug, one at a time, all electrical connectors and spray them with WD and then with a contact cleaner like DE OXIT. Let dry before reconnecting.

Electric start? If so, treat the starter just like the electrical connectors. Make sure it's dry again before using.

What I'm getting at, is that you should be looking for any space under the hood that may hold some of that water. Any water, especially salt water, left over can cause problems later.

Good luck and I hope she runs well after this unfortunate occurrence.
 
jgmo yes it is the tell tale that i want to refer for and it was salt water today i removed the idle air control as you said for the engine and all other electronics and intake i have cleaned it yesterday today i bought some oil and an engine oil flash and after run it on it i changed oil and filter again. if she have any rod that is bend will it work properly as it is firing and revs and idles properly. i don t have a compression test meter at the moment i will bring it next week from my garage workshop and will do the test. And for the electronics and harness they where treated before with lubricant spray and water repellent that i thing it helped for the water. what do you think?. Thanks Jason
 
Usually, when the engine is hurt, it will exhibit some sort of annoying running condition like a "slight miss" at idle or a strange noise somewhere in the rpm band.

But, from what you say, I think you may have "dodged the bullet".

It sounds like you are happy with the way it is running so that means a lot. Hondas ARE tough after all.

You must do all that you can to keep this from happening again. I have never heard of a tell tale flooding an engine like that before. Your water pump must be VERY strong!

One reason the tube pops off is that the plastic gets old and hard and looses grip on the nozzles. If your tubing isn't fresh and pliable, replace it right away. I replace mine every two years.

It seems that you've done a good job of cleaning the crankcase so I say go ahead and run her.

Good luck.
 
the engine is 3 years old with 60hrs on it so it is is considered to be like new i suspect that when i was ruining at high revs(first time for it) the engine block thermostat that is for the Vetec had some salt gut stuck and ended up blocking the small hole of the tell tale pipe and with the pressure as it have a very good pressure as you said the pipe that had nothing like a clip to keep it attached stuck off and fulfilled the cowling and i suspect that when engine sucked water i was reducing speed as this had happen a second before when i was running at around 5500rpm it will be destroyed but may be it was a big coincidence thanks good. thanks for your wishes jgmo
 
Jgmo may i ask you one last thing i am worrying about the intake sinse salt wayer pasted through it ihave washed it with salt wayer and sprayed a lot of penetrating oil iven while turning the engine to suck the oil but i have not u installed it to spray thru the cylinder head for the plastic parts ther is no problem as they dont rust but as i told you i am worried for the cylinder head intake near the valves. Do i have to worry or it is ok to leave it? Thanks again Jason
 
If you can purchase WD-40, I recommend using that to spray into the intake. But if the penetrating oil is all you have, that should be ok as long as you use it liberally to flush out the intake and you crank the engine several revolutions several times with the spark plugs removed to flush out any liquid.

It sounds like you have pretty much done all you can to clean it up.

I wish you good luck with it
 
ok i have all ready did that cranking and sprayed muliti Wurth product which is very similar to WD-40 with WOT to enter until it showed that has reached the pistons. so you think i don t need to uninstall the hole intake?
 
No. You said in your initial post that you started and ran the engine so it should be ok.
However, if you're concerned about any residue, you could do a decarb type treatment of ""spritzing" some intake cleaner into the throttle bore while the engine is running. If you decide that you want to do that but have never tried it before, I can give you some pointers on getting it done.
 
That is what I might expect to see for a brand new engine. Except for the .5 bar difference.
I don't have the compression stats for that outboard but I would say you're good.
Light her up and get back out on the water!
 
Today i took it for a sea test and seems that everything is ok i went a
Wot@6000rpm and ok too all that i felt was a bit of vibration @3000rpm but it could be my imagination. Don't know will see in the future
 
unbelievable after i tried to start the motor in the water tank in the garage i heard that the starter made a different noise so i uninstalled the starter motor and found water where there is the flywheel after greased the starter gear i installed all and gave it a try in the thanks again and after i warmed up the engine i gave it a couple of good revs and the till tale pipe got stuck again fortunately i noticed it immediately and took out the pipe and gave it a couple of tie belts so if it will do it again the nozzle will end up in the sea
 
Hi All,
I have been gifted a BF90 with the water intrusion problem in the flywheel area. Starter bendix gets corroded and stops dropping low enough to engage w/ teeth on the flywheel. Otherwise, the engine runs great. Taking off the powerhead and replacing the seals seems like way too much of an investment for a 10 year old engine and the likelihood of breaking something in the process reasonably high, so I'm looking for a workaround. Has anyone tried drilling a drain hole in the flywheel housing below the flywheel so it never gets up to the starter or does the water come-in above the flywheel and spray around?
Any good ideas welcome!
Chris
 
I have a permanent fix for this. First, make sure all the moisture is out of the flywheel housing, coat everything a best as possible with some form of corrosion guard. Then ensure your water pump is in good condition. With the lower unit off, drill two 10mm holes into the bottom of the extension housing, either side of the shift shaft directly above where the water pump sits when the lower is back on. This will allow any water leakage from the pump to drain out before it fills the whole extension housing forcing its way past the mount case seals. This method is also a good preventative measure which I have used with great success on all the older BF 75/ 90 motors.
 
Hi cwproeco,
You should start a new thread about this because I might be the only one that sees your question otherwise and I'm not sure why or how the water gets up there on this model.

But I noticed that the OP was having problems with the water tell tale nozzle plugging up and that COULD cause a pretty major "leak" inside the hood.

A good water pump creates a pretty strong flow out of the tell tale bypass and, if the bypass tube leaks or comes off completely, there will be a big time spray going on under the hood.

But start a new thread and you should see more answers.

Good luck and welcome to the Forum.

P.S. because I took so long to type I see you got another answer but I would still start another thread. Good luck.
 
Thanks lang6766. My understanding is that water is coming up the vertical shaft into the flywheel area, not from the water pump into the extension case (which I assume is right below the flywheel case?), but from water pressure against the lower unit when going fast? If that's right, I'd want the holes in the flywheel case, wouldn't I?
 
Screen Shot 2018-09-16 at 8.01.36 PM.jpg
Thanks. I'm new to this engine so before I go drilling, can you confirm whether the holes would be at the top right of the "extension separator" or at the bottom right of the part above that in the attached image? Thanks! Chris
 
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