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Honda BF225 problems

Seachaser said:
Here's the fuel pressure specs: Standard fuel pressure [At idle speed of 650 550 rpml 280-330 kpa (2.9 - 3.4 kgf/cm2, 41- 48 psi)
Now your pressure appears too high at 60PSI, <== Can you verify that your modified Compression/Gauge is accurate?

As Chawkman And Skooter have stated; check your mesh at the fuel regulator. I found my fuel pressure started ~50psi but increased quickly up to 90 psi. With Skooter and Chawkman's help found that the mesh was all clogged up. I spray with cleaner and brought fuel pressure back within spec. Goodluck!


PS: Yes Chawkman, Skooter also had the mesh clogged issue.

#4
MESH, FUEL FILTER (Honda Code 4760195).
16614-P5G-003
Click to expand...
I guess im pulling it apart again tomorow, luckly, it takes 20mins, and im NOT gonna do it like you, on the ocean xD i have a bad habit of dropping a tool or not once in a while xD and its 30ft deep at my dock^^
 
18195876_10211698948143456_950169560_o.jpg18195295_10211698947943451_2107464769_o.jpg i used the compression tool because i also was alone, and it saves the pressure it makes, FYI i removed the plug on the HPfilterhouse and connected it there. dunno if i must do it on a specific place. but i think the first one is the most accurate, i may have run the pump too long? i dont know but these are the results. It should be pretty accurate or they sell illegal products here.
 
Thats the one i used, and the second test with the highes psi was the most secure one. so i think ill use some carbclean or wd40 if that can be used to clean that tiny little washer?
 
Just had it apart, a few Black spots on it. I will do some tests later and i had to postpone the launch until tomorow, im gonna go get some clean fuel today and new. i also had breakcleaner/injectorcleaner running through the system with pressure from the spraycan, ALOT of dark matter came out, even the carbs got a dash of cleaning, so im itching to test it now
 
Im starting to lose hope here, i took it out for a ride, and still only at 3500rpm, nu surging, just stopping there, i had a mechanic with me and he clearly told me i have a missfire somewhere, so i will start with sparkplugs, on idle the boat is shaking. Even running from snall fuel cans
 
So here is a little update, I just installed my new spark plugs, bloody 400USD for them here. and they did not change a ****!
https://youtu.be/_Sxmt9fwXI8
Rough Idle, shaking ALOT, feeling it on the boat. Low Power, bad emissions and high fuel use, can see it with the eye on a 20l can at WOT.
I'm giving up here on this piece of crap engine. Gonna start rowing from today.
I got nothing, next option is drive the boat to a dealer and get a diagnostic from it, NO alarm, NO blinking lights, NOTHING....
I can suspect a faulty MAP sensor? :confused:
Fuel pressure is back at normal now. Tested with a propel tool.
I rather not buy a new ECM. because that's easly 1500USD here -.-
 
Apart from the steam (which I think it looks like), that shaking at idle seems pretty similar to mine!

[More thinking aloud here, and this may be very wrong but...]
I see you have an extra fin on the engine - now this would not have been put on for no reason and I'm wondering if the engine is struggling with your length of boat. Did you every say what prop you're running as that MAY not be allowing the engine to run at WOT.

I mean, the engine revved up above 4000 when it was trimmed right up, so it seems that it can do it but may be being held back by the prop or something non-engine related.

Oh - and the two lights on the separate plate do come on when you first switch the ignition on don't they, because they can become unplugged.
 
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I found the problem. And thats an expensive one. The port side plugs, two of them. Have bad threads, so i used a different conpressiontool with threads. And i got a total different compression, 150psi, last time was 207/210 with a tight rubber seal.
So... But i find it odd that there are no sign on the coils of exhaust/dirt..
But disconnecting coils on idle are giving reactions, so at the moment ive booked a service at a dealer, other than that, i also requested a trade for a engine around the same age for a little fee...
 
Volume92 said:
I found the problem. And thats an expensive one. The port side plugs, two of them. Have bad threads
Click to expand...

Volume92, damaged threads are not that bad. I've just had a damaged sparkplug thread repaired with a timesert insert.
It cost just 45 euro at a local garage.

Pretty easy fix. Ask your local car garage.
 
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Takin it to the shop next friday anyways, i'll let them deal with it :p Or i could just use heat silikon, but that would make a sparkplug swap insanely hard xD
It's a last try before I sell it or trade it. And depending on part costs, next engine will be a Suzuki, or screwzuki as we call them;)
 
Personally I'd def go with repairing the threads with timeserts - it's a proper fix. I know you feel let down by this engine but I think you should give it a chance and the thread repair really shouldn't cost you more than about 150 euro at a car garage, but a Honda dealer will probably charge you more.

You never came back with what prop is on your engine. I've today had my first run with a new prop - the engine came with a 21" Mercury Trophy which was apparently very wrong for this engine on a Whaler Outrage 210. Now fitted a Mercury Enertia 17" and it's transformed the boat with the engine being able to rev about 6-700 rpm higher than it's previous max of 5200rpm.
 
The prop that is on the engine now does not have any marks, that i cant find, however i did get a spare unused prop with the engine, and thats a Mercury laser2 19p, that i will try to put on during the weekend, yes i will have the threads fixed, the shop im goint to is a Evinrude, Mercury and Honda dealer, or more like certified dealer, not a pure Honda dealer, they do not charge that much but i rather giving them a chance instead of blindly buying a new ecm and having the threads fixed at a cheap place
 
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