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Honda bf225 acting crazy...please help!!!!!

W

Winnercuddysport

New member
Having some issues with my bf225. There are a few things going on, so instead of trying to type it all out and explain it, I figured a quick video would be best. That way y'all could see exactly what is going on. Unfortunately, the alarm I wanted identified didn't happen. Instead, it was a COMPLETELY different alarm...FML. so I guess help in identifing that problem would be good. And if the delay in the ignition starting is in the switch or something else. There are 2 videos because after a minute or 2 of waiting, the motor ran great. Started fine other than the delay in the switch, and no alarms any more. However, if I go try again in a few weeks, the alarms will be back. It seems to throw them the first few startups then it's fine. Also, it revs up high in the beginning the settles to normal rpm and wants to backfire on startup on the first few cranks. It has never done this before either. In short we have this:

1) delay in switch when trying to crank
2) battery light does not come on even though batteries read good. (I have checked the connections)
3) solid beep when cranking a cold motor so it's not an overheat alarm
4) the new alarm that I have never had come on until I made the video a few minutes ago- beeeeeep beeeeeep beeeeeep beeeeeep continuously until I turn off ignition.

Anyway, I know this is loaded but if you could take a look at the videos and let me know what y'all knowledgeable fellas think. It would be greatly appreciated!!!

https://youtu.be/wtmHXUgyS7U


https://youtu.be/UgpoXXbwVFM
 
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Your negative connection on the first video doesnt look that good. I would disconnect and inspect your battery connections. If they are strong and rust free maybe give them a good brushing with a wire brush. I am sure the experts will chime in soon.
 
The alarm you're getting is no output from the alternator, check all your connections, given the delayed start up you have bad voltage drop somewhere.
 
Agree with Ian. I'm not sure what would be causing that delay. Have someone check for a big voltage drop on the batteries when you try to start up.

When engine is running, your voltmeter on your console should be reading around 13.6 volts +/- 0.2 if it is being fed by the ECU - that looked OK in your 2nd video. Measure voltage across both battery terminals when the engine is running. They should read 14.4 +/- .03 volts. If so, your alternator is putting out properly. If not, check alternator connectors and then test wire resistance between alternator and fuse panel - it should be very near zero.

Check your fuses for continuity, especially 1, 3, 5 & 7. Make sure tight connections and no corrosion on fuse blades. Check for any loose wires going into the fuse panel. If you have the Helm Shop Manual, see pages 2-20 & 2-21. Coming off the fuse panel there are three connectors - a round 3-prong connector, a round 4-prong connector, and a square 4-prong connector. Disconnect each and look for corrosion or loose wires, and clean with electrical cleaner.

If none of that uncovers the problem, I would pull out the key switch panel and see if there is anything that looks suspicious in there. Before doing that, spray some electrical contact cleaner in the key hole and work it back and forth a few times. Then try the start up procedure.
 
What happened to bring on these problems, did they start all at once? Need to know, it would sure help. I have connections with Boeing.....I can get you some answers.
 
Good advice Chalk, just want to add that an alternator can charge without sending a signal to the ECU, might pay to pull it off and have an auto electrician run it up and bench test it. If it checks out you will need to get wiring diagram and workshop manual to carry out electrical diagnostics. The delay in starting could be the root cause of all the issues, back to a bad connection somewhere, again, troubleshoot using a workshop manual.
 
Wow. Just wow. So thankful for all the responses! I will try all mentioned advice and get back with results.

As for the what happened to bring on these problems question. It's those damn gremlins. The boat was last cranked in October. Cranked fine, ran fine, turned over fine, no alarms, no issues. I go to crank it a week or so ago to let it run a bit and all this is what I'm dealing with all of a sudden
 
So if it didn't have the hesitation before with the key, it has to be poor conductivity in that ignition. Your alternator ammeter appears to show adequate charge at idle and you should notice the ammeter going up when you rev motor. A fully charged battery will read 12.65 volts. An ignition switch can go bad from sitting especially if your rig was stored in damp conditions.
 
As for not getting a battery light at any point, have you checked the connection and that the bulb isn't blown?!

Sound stupid but both my battery and furniture system lights were both blown when I got my boat - I replaced them with LEDs in the end.
 
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