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Honda BF20 Broken Shift Arm

D

daveis2nd

New member
Anyone have experience replacing a broken shift arm?
I’m trying to determine if this is a DIY project or if I should leave it to the professionals.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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I can't discern much from the photos but I'm guessing that the shift rod "A" (upper) is broken.

I've never seen one snap off like that so I have no experience removing or replacing one.

I have the shop manual and there is a mention of replacing it but, when I turn to page 14-5 as directed, it doesn't mention anything other than "disconnect shift rod A from the shift shaft". That direction is at the end of the procedure for replacing the shift shaft, not shift rod A specifically.

So, I can only speculate that if shift rod A (upper) is disconnected from shift rod B (lower) and the adjustment nut is removed you would just disconnect it from the shift shaft and pull it straight up and out.

That is, perhaps, if you had already prepared the shift shaft for removal. That involves loosening the shift arm pivot bolt or selector rod, (depending on if it is remote control or tiller)
Removing the neutral safety switch and engine control module (CDI) as well as (possibly) the shift shaft click springs and plates. (Items 11, 12.and 16 in the first link below).

Honestly, it doesn't look terribly difficult if you took photos and some notes but, personally, I wouldn't want to be without the manual and the associated parts depictions.

Below is the link to the shift shaft for a remote shift set up. Note item 28. I believe that slips over shift rod A although the rod isn't shown.


Item 13 in the link below is the shift rod A. Note the large "hook" bend at the top. That will be the reason for loosening all the aforementioned items to get the clearance to pull it out and re-insert it.

Honda Outboard 20HP OEM Parts Diagram for WATER PUMP + VERTICAL SHAFT (S,L) | Boats.net

Buy OEM Parts for Honda Outboard 20HP WATER PUMP + VERTICAL SHAFT (S,L) Diagram
www.boats.net www.boats.net

Sorry about all the words but just trying to be thorough enough to give you an idea of what might be involved.

If you are interested in buying the authorized shop manual you can order one here:

Honda Marine | Shop Manuals Publications | Honda Power Products Support Publications

publications.powerequipment.honda.com publications.powerequipment.honda.com

Good luck.
 
Well then.....

Any idea why it snapped like that? I have not seen one do that before. You should try to first figure out why it snapped before proceeding.

The gear case needs to come off and the propshaft holder will need to be removed to gain access. Think: transmission removal. That's everything in the link below except 6, 7 and 18.

The good news is that it all comes out as one piece IF you keep it perfectly level. If it's tilted slightly, the slider pin (item 4) and spring will fall out.

The bad news is that the job has only JUST begun.


The shift rod B threads through the water pump housing.
Item 7 in the link below.

Honda Outboard 20HP OEM Parts Diagram for WATER PUMP + VERTICAL SHAFT (S,L) | Boats.net

Buy OEM Parts for Honda Outboard 20HP WATER PUMP + VERTICAL SHAFT (S,L) Diagram
www.boats.net www.boats.net

In this case, with the rod being broken, you can probably remove the rod from below. But you will still need to remove the housing to properly install a new rod. That means removing the mainshaft. And, if you're doing all that, you might want to take the opportunity to replace the water seals (items 25 and 26 x 2). At a minimum you will need items 6, 8 and 29 to re-seal.

I've only done this job a couple of times and really don't think that I would ever do it again unless for a very dear friend in dire need.

Just driving/pushing the pins out of that rod can be a pin punch breaking BEAR of a job.

The REAL PROBLEM would be finding someone you could trust to do it for you should you not want to try. There are SO many hack "outboard repair shops" out there (some with an authorized Honda shingle) that screw more stuff up than they fix.

You might want to consider taking the gear case assembly and the upper piece of that rod to a reputable welder and have it TIG welded back on. If the outboard shifted good and didn't leak before then that might be the simplest solution.
It's a specialty type job and they'll charge accordingly but it might work out well for you.

Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
Well then.....

Any idea why it snapped like that? I have not seen one do that before. You should try to first figure out why it snapped before proceeding.

The gear case needs to come off and the propshaft holder will need to be removed to gain access. Think: transmission removal. That's everything in the link below except 6, 7 and 18.

The good news is that it all comes out as one piece IF you keep it perfectly level. If it's tilted slightly, the slider pin (item 4) and spring will fall out.

The bad news is that the job has only JUST begun.


The shift rod B threads through the water pump housing.
Item 7 in the link below.

Honda Outboard 20HP OEM Parts Diagram for WATER PUMP + VERTICAL SHAFT (S,L) | Boats.net

Buy OEM Parts for Honda Outboard 20HP WATER PUMP + VERTICAL SHAFT (S,L) Diagram
www.boats.net www.boats.net

In this case, with the rod being broken, you can probably remove the rod from below. But you will still need to remove the housing to properly install a new rod. That means removing the mainshaft. And, if you're doing all that, you might want to take the opportunity to replace the water seals (items 25 and 26 x 2). At a minimum you will need items 6, 8 and 29 to re-seal.

I've only done this job a couple of times and really don't think that I would ever do it again unless for a very dear friend in dire need.

Just driving/pushing the pins out of that rod can be a pin punch breaking BEAR of a job.

The REAL PROBLEM would be finding someone you could trust to do it for you should you not want to try. There are SO many hack "outboard repair shops" out there (some with an authorized Honda shingle) that screw more stuff up than they fix.

You might want to consider taking the gear case assembly and the upper piece of that rod to a reputable welder and have it TIG welded back on. If the outboard shifted good and didn't leak before then that might be the simplest solution.
It's a specialty type job and they'll charge accordingly but it might work out well for you.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
The only thing I can think of is that there was a transom saver on it when I bought it, may have put it in a bind while towing?
 
Well, I would try shifting the transmission while slowly turning the propeller. Grasp the rod sticking out of the case with pliers. I think needle nose vice grips would work best. Pull up to go into forward. Push down to neutral and then push down farther to reverse all while slowly rotating the prop. If it shifts into all positions smoothly and firmly engages when in gear then all is likely ok with the transmission.

If you decide to try tig welding it, it should be shifted to forward in order to expose as much rod as possible. Warn the welder to apply a heat sink to protect the water seal down inside the case.

Once the welder has it positioned to weld, it's literally a 2 minute job to fuse it back together.

You will then want to rethink the way that transom saver attaches.

Good luck.
 
iang6766 said:
Upper shift shaft breaking is common, is it upper or lower?
Click to expand...
Sorry, not trying to hijack this post, but as it refers to the "shift rods" it may be OK? Mate, in your post you mention "Upper shift shaft breaking is common". I've got the apparent unenviable task for removing a "broken upper shift shaft" off a 1997 Honda BF 9.9. It has snapped at the joiner, so has to come out. Also this shift rod is now "discontinued" and no longer available, which means I have to get it out and hopefully repair the shaft. I've drilled out the "joiner" and re tapped the thread, so that bit is salvageable, however...I need to also find out the actual shift rod length to know how much extra shaft/thread I need to have Tig welded as the length of Shift Shaft A is apparently critical to adjust the gear selection. Any advice on these two points would be really appreciated.
 
Hi,

Just a suggestion in case you don't find an accurate measurement....

....since the upper shift rod looks to be arrow straight, you could sImply fabricate your own extra long stainless threaded rod and then cut off the excess after you weld and install it and re-fit the gearcase.

It shouldn't make any difference in feeding it down through the extension case I don't think. But....I've never worked on one of these so just a guess.

Good luck.
 
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