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Honda BF115 won't shift after lower unit installed

S

Stubear334

New member
I made the tragic mistake of not aligning the shift rod before installing lower unit. When tightening it up, I heard a "ping" and a shiny e-clip flew out. I believe it came from the shift rod that goes into the lower unit. Now, it won't shift into F or R. This is after I got it aligned properly. How does one get the shift rod aligned and the e-clip put back together again?

Thanks,
Stu
 
Hi,
If the e-ring is item 35 in the link below (10mm), it might not be too big of a problem.
Hopefully, the shift rod didn't slip down into the case and the pin at the bottom of the shaft didn't dislodge from the shift plate.

As long as you have all the parts that may have jumped off along with the ring and you can see the slot in the shaft that the ring snaps in, you can just try putting the ring back in place and then stack the components as you see them in the diagram.


If the pin at the shaft bottom came free of the shift plate (item 6 in link below) you may need to pull the propshaft assembly to get it put back into position or the transmission won't shift.


While you see lots of parts and it looks intimidating, all the stuff on the propshaft (item 9) stays on the shaft EXCEPT the shift plate (item 6) when you remove the two bolts (item 12 x 2) and remove the propshaft holder (item 10) along with the shaft.
TIP: Have the outboard tilted slightly UP before pulling the propshaft holder assembly so that the shift plate and forward bevel gear (item 7) don't fall out of the case. However, if they do, it's not a big deal. Just make sure they're clean and slid properly back into place as per the depiction. It PAYS not to do this work in the dirt or grass.

With the propshaft and it's attached components out you can access the shift shaft and position it to replace the e-ring and position it's pin into the slot of the shift plate.

Hope this helps and good luck.
 
If it is #54 that got dislodged, then it is common for #14 & #21 to pop out of mesh with each other & become misaligned. On the earlier 115/130 you can remove #23 to gain access & realign #14 & #21.
 
bobmech said:
If it is #54 that got dislodged, then it is common for #14 & #21 to pop out of mesh with each other & become misaligned. On the earlier 115/130 you can remove #23 to gain access & realign #14 & #21.
Click to expand...
Hi I unfortunately did the exact same thing and gears aren’t right afterwards. Could you explain further how to redline please mate? Also I can’t see where #13 goes? I’ve replaced #54.
Cheers for any and all help
 
This is tricky if you're not experienced. You need to mark your shift shaft with a paint pen to indicate where the master spline is. Then with the shift in neutral, push the whole assembly up , turn it so the master spline is facing exactly forward, then let it drop down and install the circlip. It's not easy but doable. Hope this makes sense
 
Just to add, there is a thrust washer that sits above the circlip which may have slid down into the midsection, make sure that goes above the clip or the shift mechanism will go out of sync again
 
iang6766 said:
Just to add, there is a thrust washer that sits above the circlip which may have slid down into the midsection, make sure that goes above the clip or the shift mechanism will go out of sync again
Click to expand...
Thanks for that. The thrust washer is there and I bought a new circlip but it doesn’t sound right, so I’ll have a look at it and report back
 
iang6766 said:
This is tricky if you're not experienced. You need to mark your shift shaft with a paint pen to indicate where the master spline is. Then with the shift in neutral, push the whole assembly up , turn it so the master spline is facing exactly forward, then let it drop down and install the circlip. It's not easy but doable. Hope this makes sense
Click to expand...
Tried this yesterday. I got the circlip out and pushed the shaft up but it wouldn’t turn for me? Any ideas?
Thanks for all the help.😊👍
 
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