Logo

Boat not accelerate and vibrates crazy please help

Finally got everything back together and went for ride today. The boat ran flawless, no knock no vibration, just the way it was before love it.

So my issue was because the boat took on water due to bad bilge float sensor, water destroyed the gimbal bearing and caused spark plug wires wet thus engine ran rough and vibrated.

Things I have replaced.
Plugs
Wires
Distributor cap and rotor.
Gimbal bearing
Shift cable below.

I really like how the boat runs now, but I do have a new problem, it's never end :(

Because I had to remove the shift cable to replace the below (it was ripped). Now, my forward is a tiny bit delay and reverse goes in early and if I throttle up to much in reverse the engine will stall. I also notice the shift to reverse is a lot tighter than before.
Any ideas?
 
got a good machinist near you? gimbal installer
IMG_1408.jpg

IMG_1409.jpg

IMG_1407.jpg

gimbal remover
IMG_1414.jpg

IMG_1416.jpg

IMG_1415.jpg

IMG_1417.jpg
 
Because I had to remove the shift cable to replace the below (it was ripped). Now, my forward is a tiny bit delay and reverse goes in early and if I throttle up to much in reverse the engine will stall. I also notice the shift to reverse is a lot tighter than before.
Any ideas?

So, I removed all cables off the plate.
Checked and adjusted shift cable at forward, it was a little short.
Checked and adjusted the remote cable.
Then adjusted the shift cable stud a little up from the bottom.
All is good now, at least on dry dock, hope it doesn't change and may the boat god likes me. (I started to believe there's a boat god watching me every move)
 
Trim out drive up 2 inches from all the way down.
Take keys out of ignition!!!!!!!!!!!
Have a second person stand at the prop.
You, remove the short shift cable from the shift bracket.
After the cable has been removed, push the plastic cable end all the way in and hold in place while prop is being spun C’Clockwise..
Have second person rotate prop counter clock wise until the prop is fully engaged and wont turn anymore. Maintain light effort on shift cable plastic end pushing it to keep forward engaged.

Measure the distance from the center of the brass trunion to the center of the round mounting hole in the plastic end. Adjust trunion to make that distance 6 inches. no more no less! In cases where the shift cable is old but still works well you can adjust this dimension to 5 15/16”. NO MORE.

Put shift control handle in forward FULL throttle position.
Remove the control shift cable from shift bracket at this time.

Install short shift cable back onto bracket at this time.

Take the shift control cable and adjust the trunion so it fits perfectly back into the shift bracket.
Before installing it turn the brass trunion 4 complete turns away from the plastic end and reinstall into shift bracket.

Now put shift control handle in the neutral position.
Have second person spin prop, it should spin freely.
Put shift control into the forward detent position at ~ 10:00 position. NO FUTHER.
Have the second person rotate the prop counter clockwise. You should have solid engagement with no ability to continue to turn the prop.

Now shift back into neutral. Prop should spin freely with no clacking or clunking.

Now shift to reverse to the 2:00 o’clock position detent NO FURTHER!!

Have the second person spin the prop clockwise.

If you have positive engagement with no clunking or jumping out of engagement, you are done.

If it does not fully engage into reverse than look at the shift bracket where the short shift cable mounts and there is a slot. Loosen the 7/16 hex that is touching the bracket and move the stud so you are pulling the short cable.

Try this and retest in water under load.

Anyway there are tests that would tell you if the cable is bad but to difficult to type out here but in general if you remove the shift control cable from the shift bracket, shift the control handle to full forward/wide open throttle and make a mark on the cable end, now go full reverse and repeat. Measure distance between marks, (2 7/8" to 3 1/8") any more and replace the control cable.

Short cable measurement test, remove short cable from shift bracket, push all the way in and spin prop by hand until full forward is made. Make a mark on shift cable end where the plastic stops over the metal.
Now with someone holding the prop from spinning pull the cable end out with two fingers, as soon as resistance is felt mark the inner cable where the plastic cable end ends. Now measure between the marks,
The measurement should beif I remember correctly 1/2 " to 9/16". anymore and the cable or linkage is bad.
 
Trim out drive up 2 inches from all the way down.
Good to know, I didn't trim up 2". I did it while it was all the way down.
Take keys out of ignition!!!!!!!!!!!
Have a second person stand at the prop.
You, remove the short shift cable from the shift bracket.
After the cable has been removed, push the plastic cable end all the way in and hold in place while prop is being spun C’Clockwise..
Have second person rotate prop counter clock wise until the prop is fully engaged and wont turn anymore. Maintain light effort on shift cable plastic end pushing it to keep forward engaged.

I had my 11 years old son helped me with it.

Measure the distance from the center of the brass trunion to the center of the round mounting hole in the plastic end. Adjust trunion to make that distance 6 inches. no more no less! In cases where the shift cable is old but still works well you can adjust this dimension to 5 15/16”. NO MORE.
Yes, I did this. It was about a 1/4" short

Put shift control handle in forward FULL throttle position.
Remove the control shift cable from shift bracket at this time.

Install short shift cable back onto bracket at this time.

Take the shift control cable and adjust the trunion so it fits perfectly back into the shift bracket.
Before installing it turn the brass trunion 4 complete turns away from the plastic end and reinstall into shift bracket.
Yes, I did this

Now put shift control handle in the neutral position.
Have second person spin prop, it should spin freely.

Did not do this part. Good to know, thanks ghost, next time.

Put shift control into the forward detent position at ~ 10:00 position. NO FUTHER.
Have the second person rotate the prop counter clockwise. You should have solid engagement with no ability to continue to turn the prop.

Now shift back into neutral. Prop should spin freely with no clacking or clunking.

Now shift to reverse to the 2:00 o’clock position detent NO FURTHER!!

Have the second person spin the prop clockwise.

Will do this part next time.

If you have positive engagement with no clunking or jumping out of engagement, you are done.

If it does not fully engage into reverse than look at the shift bracket where the short shift cable mounts and there is a slot. Loosen the 7/16 hex that is touching the bracket and move the stud so you are pulling the short cable.
I had to do this part because when in reverse motor would stall on me

Try this and retest in water under load.

Anyway there are tests that would tell you if the cable is bad but to difficult to type out here but in general if you remove the shift control cable from the shift bracket, shift the control handle to full forward/wide open throttle and make a mark on the cable end, now go full reverse and repeat. Measure distance between marks, (2 7/8" to 3 1/8") any more and replace the control cable.

Short cable measurement test, remove short cable from shift bracket, push all the way in and spin prop by hand until full forward is made. Make a mark on shift cable end where the plastic stops over the metal.
Now with someone holding the prop from spinning pull the cable end out with two fingers, as soon as resistance is felt mark the inner cable where the plastic cable end ends. Now measure between the marks,
The measurement should be if I remember correctly 1/2 " to 9/16". anymore and the cable or linkage is bad.

Thank you ghost.
I will use your procedure if I continue to have any issue under load, on dry dock every thing appear to be working properly right now. Once again I thank you very much for your detail procedure.

Let me know if you ever up this way.
 
The 1/4 inch you missed is very critical. YOU MUST have the six inches to start or all other adjustments will be off..........


I would suggest going back and starting over.

For reference: the reason I say raise the outdrive up 2 inches, this puts a slight strain/stretch on the cable, if the adjustments are done properly at this position and work as described then it will work throughout the trim/trialer range.

This is my opinion only and not in the service manual.
 
The 1/4 inch you missed is very critical. YOU MUST have the six inches to start or all other adjustments will be off..........
Yes sir! I said it was 1/4" short. I adjusted it to 6"

For reference: the reason I say raise the outdrive up 2 inches, this puts a slight strain/stretch on the cable, if the adjustments are done properly at this position and work as described then it will work throughout the trim/trialer range.

This is my opinion only and not in the service manual.

I kind of understood your intention, and thought it's a good trick. Thanks again for the tip.
 
Back
Top