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BF225 Honda stalling

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lakesinclairlife

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I have a 2017 BF225 Honda on a 25 ft pontoon. I ran the engine at 4000rpm for an hour. I had approximately 1200lbs in weight from people being on the board. After about an hour. We stopped to swim for 15 minutes. When I turned it back on and gave it gas, it stalled at 1500rpms. To resolve the issue, I had someone else drive it and I pumped the fuel bulb to see if it would resolve the issue when I pumped it and that did not solve for it. The bulb was not flat, but I had to pump it 4-5 times to be firm again. I didn't think to open the fuel cap to see if that solved the issue.
The next day, I fired it right up with no issues and decided to repeat the same route as yesterday with just me on it and it would not stall. So the full load has something to do with it. I have replaced the sparkplugs, low & high-pressure fuel filter, and impeller.

Thoughts?
 
1200 extra lbs. on a 25 ft. pontoon, should not have affected engine performance, but I guess it's possible. Any alarms when it stalled at 1500 rpm? If so, what type alarm - continuous, long intermittent, short intermittent?

When you say "stalled" - did it shut down, or still running but not getting beyond 1500 rpm?

If still running when it stalled, did you happen to look at the green oil pressure light to see if it was still lit?

Off-the-wall thought: Engine got overheated and thinned the oil. 15 minutes was not enough time to cool it down sufficiently, lowering oil pressure. These engines will continue to run at +/- 1800 rpm with low oil pressure.
 
Hi,
I think chawk_man's theory of what is called in the engine repair business a "hot soak" could be very valid in what you experienced.

It's called hot soak because, for a time after you first shut off an engine, the internal temperature will rise for a time due to no coolant circulation. The time this condition exists is different for each design but 15 minutes to reach peak temp rise is likely pretty common.

As each engine design is different, the increased temperature condition could last anywhere from thirty minutes to an hour or more.

Your associating this with an increased passenger load is probably accurate too as that may have significantly increased engine temp toward the end of the run.

I use terms such as probably, likely and may have because I don't know.
The only way to prove this might be to duplicate the conditions and monitor engine temperature either with a mechanical gauge or the Dr. H software.

I believe a less than a less than optimal water pump could cause this, especially the too low oil pressure that chawk_man suggests.

But I also wouldn't lose sight of the fact a slightly "out of range" sensor might cause something like this to happen as well. That's why testing with Dr H could be valuable if this problem persists and no obvious reason is easily found.

Good luck.
 
Thanks Bill! Right back atchya on that! I usually try to wait for you to speak up on the V6's because I know that your knowledge is based on experience....not just "book learnin'.
 
chawk_man said:
1200 extra lbs. on a 25 ft. pontoon, should not have affected engine performance, but I guess it's possible. Any alarms when it stalled at 1500 rpm? If so, what type alarm - continuous, long intermittent, short intermittent?

When you say "stalled" - did it shut down, or still running but not getting beyond 1500 rpm?

If still running when it stalled, did you happen to look at the green oil pressure light to see if it was still lit?

Off-the-wall thought: Engine got overheated and thinned the oil. 15 minutes was not enough time to cool it down sufficiently, lowering oil pressure. These engines will continue to run at +/- 1800 rpm with low oil pressure.
Click to expand...
So we ran the boat for an hour. One time the check engine light came on when it surged at 1500rpms. It has not done that since then. It shut down a few times. But it also will limp along at 1500 RPMs if I leave it at that. If I try to go above it, it will surge. I did not look at the green oil pressure light and see if it was lit.
 
When check engine light came on, did you get an alarm? If so, pull codes and let us know what you found. Pull codes anyway. See attached.
 

Attachments

  • Procedure for Getting Fault Codes.pdf
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  • MIL Fault Codes Scanned.pdf
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Ok. I have changed the hose and bulb for the fuel line from the tank, I received an code that the o2 sensor was bad, changed it. replaced the insulator screen. Opening the fuel cap when the issue occured did not fix the issue. New problem when it was starving for gas I saw the throttle position voltage was only 1.5 volts at wide open throttle. I shut it off, and it ran great, and the new tps bolts were at 4.8 at wide open throttle, “5 being the max of the tps” so now I’m leaning towards the tps slowly going out. But it took 1.5 hours of runtime before it started acting up. Thoughts?
 
Hi,
Well, it does look like you GOT IT!
Congratulations!

As to why it took so long for the TPS value to change, I can only guess but here it is:

The TPS is a variable resistor. They typically are made up of a resistance coil of wire and a sweep arm that moves along the coil surface as the sensor is moved with the throttle linkage.

Because of that contact, both the arm AND the surface of the coil wear against each other resulting in unpredictable damage areas to both.

Having done hundreds of TPS sweep tests over the years, I've seen all sorts of "value changes" that wouldn't repeat from sweep to to sweep.

Also, we used to use ohmmeters and voltmeters...including graphing voltmeters...to test. But, today, oscilloscopes are considered the acceptable tool to use for catching "glitches" in TPS sensors because of the speed these faults occur at.

It's possible that a faulty TPS signal may sometimes happen so quickly that even the ECM doesn't see it and doesn't react to it.

That's my story anyway.

Glad you fixed it.
 
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