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BF100A overheating issue

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Kiddsinoz

New member
Hi All

I have a 5 year old BF100A and a few months ago the over heating alarm sounded and after about 20 sec the engine stopped. (The manual indicates that the reason the engine stopped was overheating of more than 20 secs kills the engine - Design flaw if you ask me, I would not like to be on a lee shore a bit of weed blocks the water intake and the engine cuts out). Anyway after a number of visits to the dealer (and reminding him there are 2 thermostats on this engine) it appears it was the thermostat blocked. I always flush my engine very well and for at least 10 mins using out board flushers. I think the issue was that even after 10 mins the engine was not getting hot enough to open the thermostats. So now I increase the revs to about 1500 RPM and this warms the engine up a little more.

Just wondering if anybody else has experienced this over heating issue

Thanks

Ian
 
Design flaw ?-----A motor car has a supply of coolant that takes time to boil off.------Your outboard motor drains quickly in the event of a ---LOCA----( Loss off coolant accident ).-----A hard working outboard overheats quickly.-----Not any design flaw.----Just a mis understanding of how outboards and fine machinery work.
 
I don't know your situation and if you could pull the boat and run the outboard in a test tank or not but that is the way to get the most accurate idea about how the cooling system is actually performing.

Not trying to be argumentative but the engine protection system is designed to protect your interests in keeping your outboard alive. Blaming that system for fetching up a lee shore instead of keeping adequate ground tackle at the ready for just such a situation is a ludicrous argument in my opinion. Boating 101.

Racerone is correct, outboards, with their open cooling systems are typically operating "on the edge" when being run even moderately hard.

Try this: put on a protective glove so as not to scald yourself and hold your fingers in the tell tale stream. No problem...just warm if the system is working correctly. But shut the engine off while keeping your hand there and see how fast your comfort level changes. Maybe then the 20 second time out might make more sense to you.

Just my opinion.
 
Hi racerone & jgmo

I thank you for your comments and do not disagree with either of them. my point was really that I feel limp mode would be a more appropriate course of action in the event of an over heating issue, particularly as this may still provide some water flow and reduce the amount of heat input As I am sure you will agree things normally go wrong at the worst possible time i.e crossing a bar etc.

I was also interested in peoples thoughts on running the engine slightly above tick over speed during flushing to ensure the thermostats open and the entire engine is flushed.

I was also noting the worrying fact that my Honda dealer seemed to be aware that there were 2 thermostates on this model of engine.

Now that the dealer has changed both thermostates all seems to be OK
 
Hi Kiddsnoz

Any relation to the Capt. Kidd we all know of?

Anyway, your point about things going wrong at the worst possible place and time is a venerable and honored "tradition" in boating! So, not sure why you would have fate deprive us all of that!;)

I once worked at a Honda "dealership" and have spoken out many times about the process of becoming a "dealer"...and remaining one...is more about money than competency or an unwavering goal of serving the customer's interests. The "dealer" I worked for didn't come close to being one that could be relied on to repair anyone's outboard. They neither had a "service department" nor did they sell parts to the public but they were a "dealer" nonetheless.

While I have known of a couple of Honda dealers that were honest and knowledgeable with a keen desire to help their customers keep their Honda outboards tip top, it's painfully obvious that is not always the case.From my own experience and from what many people have related since I joined this forum, finding a good, reliable Honda dealer isn't, by any means, an easy thing to do. But, I suppose the same can be said about most brands and their support networks.
 
The block thermostat is the most common cause of overheart on the older 75,90 and 100. Honda have since moved the thermostat into a plastic elbow which has solved the problem. On the block mounted ones, they always get blocked not matter how well you flush,it's essential to service and clean them at least once a year.
 
Kiddsnoz,

I know from reading how he helps others on this forum that iang6766 knows his "stuff". His explanation of the tstat issue comes from the knowledge he has from working on outboards professionally. I don't know if he is a "Honda dealer" or has ever worked for one but it sure seems that he just stated something about the BF 100 block thermostat and flushing that pretty much EVERY Honda dealer SHOULD know by now.

So, to your point.... and to mine....just because there's a Honda sign hanging in the window it doesn't necessarily mean that the help you need is just inside the building.
 
Iang6766

Thanks for the info. Pity my 5 year old engine did not have this change done. I think I will start cleaning them my self every 6 months.

I would be interested in your thoughts on my plug corrosion post. ( Sorry if you have commented but the internet is down here due to a pole fire so using my phone)

Thanks
 
jgmo said:
Kiddsnoz,

I know from reading how he helps others on this forum that iang6766 knows his "stuff". His explanation of the tstat issue comes from the knowledge he has from working on outboards professionally. I don't know if he is a "Honda dealer" or has ever worked for one but it sure seems that he just stated something about the BF 100 block thermostat and flushing that pretty much EVERY Honda dealer SHOULD know by now.

So, to your point.... and to mine....just because there's a Honda sign hanging in the window it doesn't necessarily mean that the help you need is just inside the building.
Click to expand...

Hi jgmo

I totally agree
 
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