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BF 200A No crank power help

N

Noghing but net

New member
Hello,
I have a real bugger on my hands, looking for advise. My 2005 Honda BF200A wont crank over. Clicking at solenoid. I bought a new starter / solenoid, installed and have same issue. Last year before winterizing it was slow to crank so i thought that was my issue. I put old unit back in and put jumper cable directly to small wire on Solenoid and it cranks over. I checked all my battery cables to motor and i get 12.8 v at the motor. I bought a new main relay, pluged it in and still just get clicking. I put a load tester on my batteries and both are good. I traced from starter switch down to conn on engine wher black/ white wire enters big connector on motor and back probed from battery to this wire and solenoid again just clicks. I think i have eliminated the ignition switch. And all the cables to engine. All the dash light work. Tilt motor works. Could it be tilt relay? Doesnt look like solinoid wire goes through tilt relay on the wire diagram. I am lost. The voltage is all at 12.8v at all points on engine. The solinoid wire when disconnected on my meter when i turn key is not 12v its like 3 volts. Is this normal? Should it be 12v. ? Back probing the black/ wht wire at engine kinda eliminates all wires being damaged at engine? I an lost. Could i have gotten a bad new starter/ solenoid? I need help and another set of eyes? I hate to bring to service and sit for a month. Any advise is welcomed. Thanks
 
Hi,
I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me at the moment but you have one so you can verify if Im wrong or not.

I beelieve the Bl/w wire goes from ignition switch to the connector you spoke of and to the NEUTRAL switch. Then on to the starter solenoid.
The voltage at the solenoid should be near battery voltage when "start" is selected.
So, I think it's likely you're getting a large voltage drop at the neutral switch or in the Bl/w wire
The wire could be faulty, the switch could be bad or it could be out of adjustment.That's where I would be looking anyway.

Good luck.
 
So sorry, I finally got to a wiring diagram and see that what I wrote above is all wrong!

Please let me start over.

You say that you only get 3 volts on the white wire at solenoid.

That should be battery voltage.

The battery terminal lug (27 on the diagram) on the fuse box supplies voltage to the 30 amp fuse on the W/y wire.

The W/y wire is connected to the main relay through a 4 pin connector and the voltage passes through the starter relay inside the main relay when the starter relay is closed.

When the starter relay closes, the fused power from the W/y wire passes through the relay points and exits the main relay on the single W wire going to the starter solenoid.

With only 3 volts on the white wire I would suspect that there's a poor connection along that path.

I would begin by disconnecting and cleaning the wire eyelets on terminal 27 of the fuse box. Those wires are always hot so disconnecting the battery when doing this is prudent

If voltage is still low, it might be a poor connection at the 30 amp fuse.

If the fuse is good then check the pin contact for the W/y wire in the 4 pin connector for the main relay.

There's always the possibility that the wire is bad or that the relay is bad but, since you already tried a new relay, the odds of that are very low.

Hope I haven't only worsened your confusion.

Good luck.
 
I’d be checking all wires for 12.5v under load, those leading to powering the starter, all the way from the ignition switch.

If your solenoid/starter is working fine with a direct wire, nothing wrong with either. If your tilt is working fine lifting the outboard, all your big battery wires-+ and -, are fine.
 
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