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Bf 130 power trim-tilt

hdean

Member
On a BF 130 power trim-tilt, there are 2 aft cylinders, and a center forward cylinder. I'm trying to replace the O-ring and water seal (1 side is leaking from the center top on the aft cylinders) I'm going to replace both sides, but can not get the cap to un-screw. It has 4 holes to accept a spanner wrench(?)to remove the cap, shich I do not have. I'm sure the cap has never been off, and being in salt water from 03 I'm sure it's siezed from corrosion. Can I use some heat or what is suggested to assist in removing the screw on cap. I've ordered kit
# 56115-zw1-305 which encludes a new cap. I'm worried about the female threads inside the cylinder. I've tryed useing 2 phillips head screw drivers makeing an X to try to unscrew the cap, and also used a round punch tapping around the out side edge of the cap with no luck. Where can I get a "spanner wrench"?
 
Here's one option:

http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=i9O7TezYDo-qsAP_jqTeBQ&ved=0CFsQ8gIwAw#

You are wise to be cautious here.

I suggest NOT using a torch to apply heat. I would try spraying with PB-Blaster, let it set for a day or two then apply heat with an electric heat gun to help the penetrant work it's way in to the threads. You run much less risk of deforming the cylinder this way. Even then, only apply force after the assembly has cooled to ambient.

I haven't worked on one like this and before I got started, I would want to be reasonably sure that I was dealing with right handed threads before much force is applied. Are you working out of a service manual and does it say?

I'm not sure that I would go to all the trouble to get those caps off and then not use the $8.59 service kit 91357-ZW1-701 in addition to the one you listed.

Good luck.
 
Hi, let us know if it works! I have to change a seal in mine, not leaking too bad but contemplating trying it when I do some other things. Mines ran in brackish/salt water too, I have my doubts about being able to diy remove that cap too considering the manual tilt is frozen like a rock, was thinking on making a spanner out of a socket, it would certainly take a good quality spanner I'd think to remove that. pb blaster and a little heat letting it soak a few days i'd agree...never know may get lucky.
 
Hello, If you dont use the special tools you WILL damage things. The two tools you need are Honda P/n 07SPA-ZW10101 and 07SPA-ZW10200 With these it will be really easy to do it properly, they are however about A$200 each. Your other option would obviously be to take it to your Honda dealer who should have them. Would probably be cheaper than damaging the trim unit. You still need to buy the parts anyway!

Good luck
John
 
Thanks for the info, I have decided to do as you have suggested. I'd rather the dealer screw something up than me..
 
Thanks for the heads up. Checking the part site it's around 50-70 bucks each for those surprisingly. Still not cheap but looking at the manual they look well worth spending that on those (though probably wouldn't ever use them again!) , look meaty from the diagram. I only have 1 that is a suspect one, looking at the manual there is a dust and oil seal, you can't replace those without removing the cap? it looks to be on top of the cap around the rod (rod guide comp)...that's where my leak is on one piston.

I don't know how bad the leak is yet I need to check it out more, it was a project boat for fun i just got mostly done with. A couple of things like the trim/tilt i was going to revisit later, so I'll see...there's a nick in a rod the one that is leaking and at a quick glance the other day either the oil or dust cap looks mangled a bit in there. I'll watch it and look closer then decide if should get a quote or used or attempt rr, just got it back in the water and was going to pull it out in a few weeks to take care of that and odds/ends I didn't do.
 
I have a twin set up, only one of the 4 trim cylinders is leaking, also from around the rod. All 3 of the others seem to have the same amount of play (slop) around the seals and rod. I was told by my Honda mechanic that IF you do happen to get inside the cap, there is a good chance of contaminating the system with debris. (lots of little check valves and ports) So you have to be careful to avoid this potential. He said if oil comes out, water can come in. Over time the system will fail due to lack of oil or contamination from water. I'm sure salt water is very bad in this system. He said THEY normally just replace the tilt and trim. I find this a bit odd.. The system is in the 2k$ range??? The cap seats against an O-ring, but I sure mine has not ever been removed, I'm concerned about the threads, which are aluminum to aluminum or what ever material the parts are cast or machined from??. It typically sounds like a problem getting these caps off after several years of service with out being removed. Thankx for the part numbers, I'll look them up. Not to bad of price, since I'll probably do all 4. Where is the web site with the tools?? Good luck..
 
The things i've removed from my 130, aluminum to aluminum seemed ok with a little pb blaster and small amount of heat and not overdoing it, it's when you get aluminum with some kind of crappy metal bolt like the water jacket bolts or any of the other dressing bolts i've not been able to get apart 1/2 the time, they sieze up real good or like the swivel tube with the swivel in it, tube is alum, swivel is some steel and pressed in, that ain't ever coming apart in salt water and i've had several dealers say they don't replace just the rod they have to replace the swivel with the pressed on piece as they have to destroy the pressed on piece to get the swivel out. (i considered replacing that when it was apart but being it's only visual and there was plenty of meat left so I just cleaned it up).

It looks like these, the original part number is what john pasted above but looks like these are the alternative part nums from checking a few sites:

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/honda/H-07SPA-ZW1020A.html
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/honda/H-07SPA-ZW1010A.html

Manual suggest putting it in a vise, then using the spanners above, i'd pb blaster it for a few days, tighten a small bit then try to loosen, last resort gentle heat.

I've not messed with these but looking at the manual and diagrams they don't look all that complicated. You have the shell, pistons, seals bunch of orings, then the reservoir and the pump, everything look easy enough to disassemble and clean assuming you can get the caps off of a salt water one....of course famous last words =)

Though from examining the shop manual there's quite a few assembly steps and tips, I wouldn't want to do it without it. If one was taking it apart, i'd disassemble the whole thing clean everything, replace all the o rings in the pump,etc while you're there all of those are typically cheap stuff orings,etc.

According to the manual yes the cap seats against the oring, but on the top of the cap there is a recessed area with a dust cap and oil ring, I wonder if those are replaceable without removing the cap, seems like you could press em in somehow but i dunno..

Keep me updated on yours if you do decide to give a diy a try, i'd buy the tools off you if you get to your's before me mine or visa versa, or could always ebay them i'd imagine for a few bucks to offset the try.

I haven't checked any dealers though on what they'd charge or anything or used units but worth doing that.
 
Doing a little more research, The tool #07SPA-ZW1020A is used to remove the "trim" end caps on the trim cylinders. #07SPA-ZW1010A is used to remove the end cap on the "tilt" cylinder. I have not been able to find a picture of either of these tools. Any one know of a picture? I originally thought if 2 of the 4 holes on the end caps were used (opposite sides) it would be sufficent, but now I'm wondering if all 4 holes in the end caps are some how used. The tool would simply have a large hole in the center of accomidate placeing it over the extended rod then using all 4 holes to spread out the torque from the wrench. I'm thinking of making the tool..
 
One more thing, every one is mentioning PB Blaster, is this the actual name, and where is it purchased. I have applied "nut cracker", which is probably the same thing???
 
Both the tools are similar shape, and they only use 3 of the 4 holes. I will take a photo later in the day when I have time and post it up for you.

Cheers
John
 
Hope this image may help

tool2.jpg

Cheers
John
 
Just an update on replacing the seals. I took it to the dealer with my supplied kits. With the correct tool, the caps came right off. I had been useing "Nut Cracker" for over a week off and on. I think this is the trick.. I'd suggest not rushing to remove the caps, let the penatrating oil have a chance to work. Thanks for all the assistance. This is a great site to get your questions answered!!!
 
Hi there, I am looking for a Honda BF130 a1 power tilt and was hoping you could help me with this. Either new or used, as long as its fully functioning. It's a very expensive part and I am looking for the best price. Any suggestions welcome!

Best, Robbert
 
Here are the API equivalents on various Honda trim motor part numbers. I extracted this from a chart produced by API on the web. I have not personally verified it EXCEPT for the one at the bottom. I had to reverse the wires for it to work correctly - blue to green and green to blue. Otherwise it was an exact match. The API motors can be purchased for well under $200 verses over $500 for the honda motors.

Honda PNAPI
31200-HW1-6713070
31200-ZV5-0130 MOT5010N
31200-ZV6A-0130MOT5010N
31200-ZW1-004 MOT6000N
31200-ZW5-003 MOT6001N
31200-ZY3-003 MOT6002N
31210-ZA0-982 ST200ND
31210-ZE3-013 MOT18513
36120-ZV5-821PT302NM
36120-ZV5-822 PT656NM
36120-ZY3-013PT607 NMMust reverse wires
 
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