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2015 honda bf60a

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BGK

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I have a 2015 honda BF60a that the crankcase was full of water. I'm currently tearing it apart and replacing the head gasket. Anyone know the torque specs on the head bolts?
 
I would HIGHLY recommend that you reference a manual for this. Not just for the torque values, but for any special procedure involved. FOR INSTANCE, the 50hp engines have you take one of the bigger of the 2 sized head bolts, torque them in a certain pattern, THEN tighten 90 degrees beyond the torque value. Have done a bunch of these, and my advice wold be it's no place to be guessing. -Al
 
I agree with Alan on this and will add that you will probably NOT want to reuse TTY (Torque To Yield) head bolts at any rate. For a late model engine the service info is a wise way of avoiding making more trouble for yourself than you already have.

Besides getting the job done right it may also provide you with some insight as to other causes for water to enter the crankcase when the the reason might not actually be a failed head gasket.

Just sayin'.

Good luck.
 
I may be totally wrong for re-using/saying anything about it, but in my experience, assuming they are in good shape (no guarantees regarding engines run in salt water) the head bolts can be used over - despite the fact they are TTY.

Agree though, especially if you have a sketchy motor (e.g. this is the second head gasket you've installed trying to find a stubborn leak), replacing the bolts might be a good plan.

If there's any piece of advice I'd offer it would be that the surfaces on both sides need to be spotless. I even wipe them down with mineral spirits just prior to assembly.
 
Beware with these engines, water in the oil destroys the oil pumps too, every time. You need to do more than remove the head, do a full rebuild, it will more than likely need new engine bearings too.
 
I would have to disagree regarding "every time". I've been doing these for a while now (buying/fixing "water in oil" engines) , and haven't had one go down again once the issue has been dealt with and is no longer leaking water into the oil. Maybe 30 of them? The majority seem to go on living healthy lives afterward.

That's NOT to say the water/oil mix can't destroy an engine if not dealt with right away. I would NOT try to finish up a season for instance. My point is that it's not an automatic full rebuild, including pump, not in my experience anyway. If you fix the leak and it runs without knocking, you're good to go. I've done just 2 that did knock when making a lot of power (starting at near wide open throttle), resulting in a new set of rod and main bearings. I was pretty surprised that the knock on these motors wasn't a lot worse. On inspection, it looked like they could have thrown a rod at any minute! -Al
 
iang6766 said:
Sorry, I'll say no more
Click to expand...

No intention to discredit or offend my friend. Only to share my own experience. It's my impression that's what places like this are for? If we all had the same opinion, this would make for some pretty boring reading?
 
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