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1969 Evinrude 85hp stalling

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warezaholic

Member
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I recently bought an old 15 ft 1972 Crestliner with a 1969 Evinrude 85hp mounted on it. When I bought it the owner started and revved it (with cooling water attachment) and I bought it but a week later I launched it only to remain at the dock for over 3 hours because "EVERY TIME" I put the shifter in gear the motor stales out! I tried to research it on google but it got me nowhere!<br>
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All I saw was a slim reference to a clutch issue but the explanation was connected to some rip-off " "Take-Out-Your-Credit Card" " if you want the answer web site!<br>
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The Motor starts easily and will run and rev just fine BUT (as I mentioned) it would stall out every time the motor was placed in gear (forward and reverse) so we never left the launch.<br>
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I'm good with Old Car Motors but no experience with outboards. I'm a (Very long time) disabled Nam Vet and all our saved-up 3,000 $$$ went to buy the boat AND another old car worthy of the 1500-lb tow capacity so I can't afford a professional repair for a few months and in Michigan that means no boating until late next spring.<br>
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If I can get it resolved myself now, I might just get a day or two of fishing before Mid-November (Michigan weather is NEVER reliable). I could really use some direction towards a solution.<br>
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Evinrude- 2 cycle <br>
Year- Likely - 1969 to 1976<br>
Mod#- 85899C<br>
Ser# - J0005383<br>

According to Google sources it's a 1969 but according to your Evinrude Model Number Guide here, it's a 1978
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If it starts and runs at least you know amplifier and distributor cap/rotor are doing their job. You can check spark at the ends to see if it may have bad boots. Do a compression test also.Sounds more like you have a carb issue as these will start and run/idle on just 2 cylinders.
 
Post a picture of the motor with cowling off.----------No distributor cap on a 78 model.-----------Sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders.------Check compression.----------Check for spark on all leads.-----------Do not run it again untill you confirm carburetors are clean.--------If the seller ran it without water for every demo you need a new impeller !!
 
The seller tested it with water attachment and when it was in the water (at the lake) I looked to be sure the impeller was working!

Please post the acceptable compression for all 4 cylinders so I can judge the compression check when I can look it over. As far as the spark boots, how can that be safely checked? (my only experience is by holding a connected plug against the block and look for spark) but if the spark is showing weak signal, I need to know how to measure with digital multi-meter. Carb issues are a little more "over-my-head" without a book/printable tutorial. First thing I did after sitting 3 hours dead at the launch (luckily there was 7 other launches) When I arrived home, was to generously spray the carbs with Gumout Carb spray while idling as well as carefully degreasing other critical areas with Gumout degreaser (like carbon and oil buildup). I do not remember seeing a distributor cap but will take a photo tomorrow during daylight and post it.

Is this motor a 69 or a 78? AND is there a PDF Manual somewhere around here?
 
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And racerone why do you feel the need to come across as gruff or hostile (the tone of your reply). If you're not adding anything good or at least constructive to the post then why say anything at all?

I do not need someone to compound my inexperience by trying to make me feel stupid.. I have over 40 years experience with automotive work so I know well how to use automotive cleaning chemicals! so Iracerone please help me or leave me be!
 
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With the engine running disconnect the fuel line and let it run out of gas. Then get a can of seafoam and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tank fitting and stick it in the can of seafoam and them pump the carbs full of seafoam and let it sit overnight. The next day connect the fuel tank back up and start the motor and run it at 2500 rpms until the smoke clears. I doubt gumout has the lubrication properties necessary when spraying it in the carbs your likely to do more damage than good to the internals of the motor.
 
and PS

I do not EVER expect Gumout spray to do any deep interior carb cleaning just the upper & outer moving parts ! ! That's why I added stuff to the gas it'self
 
Ok Ok fellas....1) perform a compression test need to see 110ps+ per cylinder and +/- 10psi variance. 2) Check spark on all 4 cylinders and need to jump a open air gap of 3/8 min. 3) Fuel added cleaners will not unstop a carb/passage that is plugged. The passage/jet must have some flow thru it to clean it. Still suspect electrical /carb issue as will run great on hose or in neutral on 2 cylinders.
 
OK Y'all I'll get the compression check today and check the spark issue (all-in-one type deal) but any more than that, AND check the plugs and gap (I will need to know the proper spark-plug gap)!

Other than this, I will be a need to just tow the boat to a repair shop for a good tune-up and just go without stuff for a month and "Get-Er-Done" ...

I appreciate the constructive help and comments
 
I have 4pics don't know if I was successful.

I sent the boat to the mechanic a month ago and only today (after my 3rd call ti him) he called telling me a $700. ($500 labor?) estimate for a (now get this) single coil pack) and that was with a used part (add +$150 with a new part)!!!! Thieves ABOUND in the Detroit Burbs

So I went in and repossessed my boat and bought that $75 used coil (only so he didn't come out of this empty handed). So I'm going to check on his diagnosis and even if I have to order a NEW replacement part, I'm still not getting robbed for.

This after them holding me up since April 1st for me to bring it to them (plus another 3 weeks before they even put their hands ON IT)

He told me (but I have trust issues with him) the lower "starboard" cylinder so I'll need to check spark in all cylinders to verify!

Damnit, I'm just a broken down NamVet that just wants to get a line wet before it's time to "winterize"
 

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Here is probably the SCREWYEST story EVER TOLD on this Forum!

I had to wait 2 months to get an appointment with K & D Marine Mt Clemens, MI. JUST to get into their parking lot; and it just it sat there since June 4th and after THREE WEEKS (6/21/17) I complained about their SLOW SERVICE so they rushed it in and diagnosed it as a "Bad Coil Pack" and after spending "LESS THAN ONE F'n HOUR" with my boat they wanted to charge me OVER $600. and charge me $150 for a 20$ part!

I asked (no shouted) $$450 labor is CRIMINAL and a serious cause for a "down right fist fight! I asked What on earth could justify those rates? He replied "BECAUSE NOBODY ELSE AROUND HERE WANTS TO WORK ON OLD MOTORS" I replied "THAT DON'T MAKE YOU A BRAIN SURGEON: AND at the end of the day YOU'RE JUST A DAMN MECHANIC! and this is not a $750,000. Maserati I obviously told them NO F'N WAY, gave them $75 diagnosis fee and I took my boat back! He mentioned "starboard"

I just ordered the shop manual from Y'all here but maybe I can instruction as how to go about verifying the coil issue (other than the obvious looking for spark at the plugs) I have a garage full of old school tune-up tools! AND could someone tell me the PART NUMBER for the correct coil? my serial & model numbers are listed below AND I'll never trust a "dirt lot" boat professional again! AND the pictured used coil they gave me for my $75 consolation prize, is probably the Totally Wrong Part!

Coil_Pack.jpg2017-06-21_1845_001.jpg2017-06-21_1845.jpg2017-06-21_1843.jpg
 
I am "just a damn mechanic" and take offense at such statements. And no, I don't charge $600/hr. Even so, I suggest that the only problem might be idle speed (RPM). Try setting it up a little.
 
As I stated I was a chef and spent a lifetime being referred to as "JUST A COOK" so put you TENDER FEELINGS in your quiet place when dealing with those of us looking for some information!
 
I've never called anybody "just a cook". In fact, I compliment the chef.
Did setting the idle speed up help?
 
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Wow. You're REALLY off the rails and I just cant get you to see that I was NEVER DOWNING YOU SIR AS ANYTHING!!! Only those a**holes that screwed ME around for 4 months over a minor repair JUST to INFLATE MY BILL!!!

My last post, I was interjecting that any specialty OCCUPATION "Boat TECHNICIAN or myself a CHEF are honorable vocations NO MATTER WHAT WE ARE CALLED BY OUR PATRONS (mechanic or cook)! I've been called a cook thousands of times by angry customers and almost always caused by inept serving staff and misinformation!

Please just get a grip and leave me out of your overwrought feeling issues. Please just LEAVE ME ALONE and let ANOTHER moderator help me with my questions; OKAY? I came to this forum to ask for advice NOT TO BATTLE with your EGO!!!!
 
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Well this is still in doubt because I was (at first) told in a forun it was a 1969 but then my own search sair a 1978 but here are my numbers and maybe you can tell what it is:

ser # j0005383
mod # 85899C
1978 Evinrude
85 HP 4 Cyl
2 cycle
 
It is a 78 model verified by your pictures.-----Now outboards are a different animal and your automotive wisdom does not always apply.-----Heed " top notch " advice given here, from folks who started repairing these machines say 50 years ago.
 
The model number quoted is a Evinrude type number. 85899C = 85=hp --- 8=year 1978 --- 99 pertains to code shaft length, etc (I forget this part) --- C= Factory run number, of no importance. Check this Model number against a plate riveted to the outside of the port transom bracket. That plate would have the model & serial number of the engine. There may also be a round quarter size core plug (looks like a small freeze out plug) somewhere on the powerhead with both numbers. If found, are the numbers identical with what I have here? BTW... Clean looking engine, looks to be a 1978 model to me.

Note that the spark plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs gaped at either .030 (long life) or .040 (strong spark).

Start with the basics. Remove all spark plugs.

Check the compression. What are the psi readings of all individual cylinders?

Check the spark with a tester whereas you can set the gap for the spark to jump. That air gap should be 7/16" for that type ignition (Magneto Capacitance Discharge). The spark should jump that gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?

If the two above areas are as they should be, the most common cause of a poor performing engine is fouled carburetors. However, let us know how the above goes first.

Spark testers can be found at any auto parts store... or you can easily built the following.

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(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4
 
To Date; This has been the detailed and informative reply about my boat motor! Thanks a bunch!

I ordered the shop manual for this motor and as soon as it arrives I'll only seek help for tests or procedures I can't understand (being nearly 63) i'm getting a bit feeble with my hand-eye coordination and comprehending some new technical materials.

I have nearly every garage mechanics, old school automotive tune-up tool and hand tool I collected to do my own work on (old school) cars for most simple jobs.
 
warezaholic said:
I ordered the shop manual for this motor and as soon as it arrives I'll only seek help for tests or procedures I can't understand (being nearly 63) i'm getting a bit feeble with my hand-eye coordination and comprehending some new technical materials.
Click to expand...

Holy Bat-**** Bubba!... Oh, to be 63 once again. I've got a good 22 years on top of that and am about to tear into the 302 V8 on my 1988 F150.... had to have my bladder and prostate removed last year (a cancer thing)... Damn!, that really screwed up my *** life! If it wasn't for the wild women, late hours, and cheap booze, I might have been a little feeble by now too.............

But as it stands, that's gotta be about a'ways off yet! And I remember 63 well! :cool:
 
It's mostly my "badly broken back" (an old factory injury) being held together by defective steel rods and screws keeping me from good mobility for the past 10 years. I am actively seeking another surgeon! Now I'm recently diagnosed with COPD and I'm wondering how that's gonna tell me how to exist!!!

I have waited to improve my own health until I have gotten my wife's more serious debilitating illness' under control and finally I found a seemingly GOOD "health system" equipped to deal with both of us on our different insurances! And now we are both getting the treatment we need and deserve!
 
Yow... understood. Yeah my friend... the "Golden Years" suck! Lost my wife 2011, same path as you mention. However life goes on and we must make the best of it. Thank God that we still have boats and engines to fall back on.

Keep us informed as to what's going on with that clean engine of yours. Still plenty of fishing time left.
 
Please HOW can I test the engine coil pack to determine (if bad and) which side it needs to go to??? (port or starboard).

Could it be as simple as testing it by holding spark plugs to the block to see if there's an arc? (like on a car motor)...

2017-06-25_1051.jpgCoil_Pack.jpg
 
Put the " car thinking " away.------That unit is the CD module.-------It can go on either side of your motor.----This item takes signals from stator and sensor coils to send signals to the ignition coils.----Your manual will explain it all.---Guessing will get expensive for you.
 
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