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03 BF225 Questions

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bonefish96

New member
Hi All. Have been reading through all of the threads here and there is much information applicable to my situation but need advice on a few items I haven't seen covered specifically. I have a new to me 03 BF225 which came with a boat I purchased in the fall. About 800 hours. The motor has some issues that I was aware of when purchasing - the two major ones are:

1. Mid section is corroded/blown out as a result (I have learned here) of mid shaft bushing.
2. Engine starts great, idles great, and runs great up to about 4K rpm but then gets an overheat alarm and goes into limp mode. Can run it all day below 4k.

I don't have a ton of service history on the motor, the guy I purchased it from owned it for about 3 years and just did routine maintenance (I believe I know the marina where service was done from new/first owner to his ownership so I may be able to get some records from them). When previous owner started seeing the motor overheat he had his mechanic look at it and that is when the mid section issue was discovered. His mechanic just patched the hole in mid section but that apparently did not address the overheat issue. PO didn't want to troubleshoot it so I basically got the package for the price of the hull.

After buying the boat I just topped off the tank, added stabilizer, ran the engine on muffs, pulled the plugs (looked good) and sprayed WD-40, changed lower unit oil (looked good), checked oil (looked almost new) but haven't changed yet. At this point I'm looking for a little help for a game plan on getting the motor up and running. I'm planning on oil change and filter, possibly new plugs (even though they look good with good gap?), new impeller, new thermostats (i did pull these last weekend and tested - both functioning properly but a decent amount of gunk built up and o-ring on port side was toast and clearly had been leaking), new racor, new anodes. Based on what I've read here I should also be doing lp and hp fuel filters. All of the aforementioned I think I can reasonably handle myself - I'm mechanically inclined but haven't owned an outboard for about 10 years and never a 4 stroke.

I have located a used mid section for a reasonable price (from an '04 I assume compatible with my '03?) - is this replacement reasonable to try to tackle myself? Anything else I should be doing in terms of deferred maintenance and to try to address the overheat issue? Read a post from chawk_man describing IAB baffles that are supposed to open around 3950 rpm that can get stuck - is that something that could cause overheating as that's the rpm range where the engine has problems?

Any help appreciated on how I should attack this!
 
Have you physically put you hands on the motor or the pee stream to see if it feels hot when the alarm is going off? It could be a sensor. If it is really running hot, I would start with thermostats and orings and water pump. I would replace the complete unit, not just the impeller. Also Check the corrosion on the thermostat housings and see if that could be keeping the thermostats from operating properly. Then, check/replace the anodes in your exhaust manifold and see if there is anything going on or preventing proper water flow through the exhaust manifolds.

I just replaced the anodes in mine this week and it is a straight forward job. I would recommend that you get the service manual as well. I got mine on Amazon for about $115, and it is money well spent!
 
Agree with all of the above from Byrdman, especially getting the official Helm shop manual. The aftermarket manuals have too many errors and omissions. That manual gives you very detailed maintenance procedures and that alone will save you multiple times the cost.

You should pull fault codes just to make sure that you are getting an overheat fault. If you need the procedure and what the fault codes mean, send me an e-mail at [email protected].

If you are truly getting an overheat, the engine will automatically power down to 1800 rpm. If the overheat has not been resolved after 20 seconds, then the ECU should shut down the engine. The only other thing that will put the engine in "limp" mode is low oil pressure, but if that happens, your green oil pressure light will go out but the ECU will not shut down the engine, just keep it in limp mode.

Definitely change out the entire water pump. And when you do that closely inspect the vanes on the impeller to make sure none have broken off. If any have, then that is likely the problem with overheating and you'll need to flush them out. Best way to do that is when the lower leg is off the engine, use a hose, sealed into each thermostat opening and use as much water pressure as you can get.

If the IAB is not working properly, that will not cause an overheat - just inefficient running at higher rpm.

Performance problems on the 225 are very often traced to the high pressure fuel filter. The darn things seem to just deteriorate on there own, whether the engine is running or not. So change that, along with the low pressure filter ASAP.
 
Thanks guys. Helm shop manual already on its way! I haven't physically felt the motor or pee stream to see if hot but will check this. I will definitely pull the fault codes - the engine was behaving exactly as you describe - once the motor hits about 4000 rpm it alarms and automatically throttles back rpms. Once the alarm stops can continue running just fine as long as you keep rpms below 4000. Mind you my recollection is based on the one time I sea trialed the boat so will have to confirm.

In any case here is what I'm planning on doing:

check for fault codes
pull lower unit and replace entire water pump
while lower unit is off replace t stats and o rings
clean build up off of tstat housings and check for corrosion
back flush through tstat openings
replace lp and hp fuel filter
check/replace anodes in exhaust manifold and check for obstruction
change oil/filter

Good plan? Any consumables or other parts beyond the obvious that I should have on hand for this work? Any product recommended for cleaning build up on tstat housings and other parts? Oil recommendation? (I'm in MA seasonal use).

Also attaching (I think) photo of damaged mid section before it was patched. Is it a major project to replace? I found a used mid section that appears to be in good shape. It's from an 04 would this be a direct replacement?
 

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Good call looked on Boats.net and part numbers are the same for 2003 and 2004. However there are two part numbers listed for both years - 40201-zy3-610za and 04406-zy3-610za:confused:

Both parts say it will fit my motor (2003 BF225 XA). Used midsection is from a 2004 25 inch shaft so I assume it should fit my motor regardless of which one it is.
 
bonefish96 said:
Good call looked on Boats.net and part numbers are the same for 2003 and 2004. However there are two part numbers listed for both years - 40201-zy3-610za and 04406-zy3-610za:confused:

Both parts say it will fit my motor (2003 BF225 XA). Used midsection is from a 2004 25 inch shaft so I assume it should fit my motor regardless of which one it is.
Click to expand...

Yes, it should as long as the donor motor is XA as well. One part # is probably prior and the other is it's replacement. If you have any doubt, call them and ask.
 
The Chawk and Byrd covered it well. The only thing I would all is to inspect the drive shaft for any wear and also replace midshaft bushing when you swap out unit
 
Your plan looks good.

I agree with Skooter to change out the mid-shaft bushing in the replacement leg if you are not 100% sure of it. Below is a very good video on the procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44ZaDzNck1I

Part Numbers
• Bushing = 40210-ZY3-610 – (Vertical shaft bearing)
• C ring = 9052-ZY3-000
• Flat washer = 9053-ZY3-610
• You’ll also need a pair of snap ring pliers.
 
Is this a problem specific to the 225s or is it something I should worry about with my 90? I noted in that video the anodes on that motor looked like they were toast. Would that be part of the problem?
 
Do yourself a favor and coat the outside of the bush with good quality marine sealant when you install it, this will keep the salt water from getting between the rubber and the housing thereby preventing corrosion in the future, and then be sure to replace the bush every three years irrespective of its condition. Whilst you have the mid section off, check the oil pan where the water tube and grommet fit, it is common for the housing to corrode out on older motors and may causing causing water pressure loss resulting in the overheat issue you describe.
 
iang6766 said:
Do yourself a favor and coat the outside of the bush with good quality marine sealant when you install it, this will keep the salt water from getting between the rubber and the housing thereby preventing corrosion in the future, and then be sure to replace the bush every three years irrespective of its condition. Whilst you have the mid section off, check the oil pan where the water tube and grommet fit, it is common for the housing to corrode out on older motors and may causing causing water pressure loss resulting in the overheat issue you describe.
Click to expand...

I would be scared to put sealant on it. It was such a B!%@& to get mine out. I'm just planning to change mine every other year when I do my water pumps and hopefully it will be easier.
 
Your choice, in my experience it stops the bush carrier from corroding in its tracks, provided it's clean and totally free of powdery corrosion. I do it to all my customer's motors when I replace the bush.
 
Ok mid shaft bushing I will change out for sure while I'm in there. Anyone done this and can offer any guidance (replacing mid section that is). From what I see in the shop manual it's pretty straightforward but it's never as easy as it seems so any first hand experience is appreciated!

Thanks for the tip on the oil pan I will be sure to check. Anything else to take a look at while that mid section is off?

Thanks!
 
bonefish96 said:
Ok mid shaft bushing I will change out for sure while I'm in there. Anyone done this and can offer any guidance (replacing mid section that is). From what I see in the shop manual it's pretty straightforward but it's never as easy as it seems so any first hand experience is appreciated!

Thanks for the tip on the oil pan I will be sure to check. Anything else to take a look at while that mid section is off?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

The bushing is a PITA to get out, but it will come out. Make sure you clean the area really good or the new one won't go in far enough for the lock ring. I bought a small wire wheel that I use with my drill.
 
iang6766 said:
Your choice, in my experience it stops the bush carrier from corroding in its tracks, provided it's clean and totally free of powdery corrosion. I do it to all my customer's motors when I replace the bush.
Click to expand...

I'll try it next time. What sealant do you use?
 
I use marine grade Sikaflex or a good polyurethane sealant, it also acts as a good lubricant when installing the new bush, as previous said, it must be very clean, if partially corroded all oxidation must be removed or it will continue to deteriorate. Removing the mid section is as easy as the manual describes.
 
Yes, a small wire wheel brush on end of drill or air tool. Also I use a socket of the same size to tap in the bushing. I've never used poly sealant, but have used marine grease on everything..nuts, bolts...shaft ...etc
 
That is correct - 2 anodes on each side.

A little comment on Honda's design - WHY IN THE WORLD DIDN'T HONDA DESIGNERS JUST USE BOLT-IN ANODES SO YOU DON'T NEED TO REMOVE THE MANIFOLDS TO GET TO THE BLASTED THINGS.

Half the owners I have talked to don't even know those anodes are in the manifolds.
 
Well I finally got around to working on the outboard yesterday. Pulled out the old tstats and flushed water back through with the lower unit off. Didn't see anything coming out except for water and flowing well on both sides. The o ring on the port tstat was all mangled and clearly had been leaking. New tstats and o rings installed. Installed new extension case along with new shaft bushing. Some corrosion on the oil pan but I don't think there was evidence of significant leakage from the water tube/grommet. High and low pressure fuel filters replaced. Water pump rebuilt. I didn't pull the exhaust manifolds to do the anodes because I didn't realize I needed to order new gaskets and guide seals. Those are on order now will take care of that once they arrive.

Question about pulling fault codes. My actual key switch only has 2 lights - green oil pressure and red water pressure. Other 2 lights (batt and check engine) are on a separate panel right next to it. Will the procedure chawkman referenced work? And if not how do I go about checking fault codes?

Thanks.
 
chawk_man said:
That is correct - 2 anodes on each side.

A little comment on Honda's design - WHY IN THE WORLD DIDN'T HONDA DESIGNERS JUST USE BOLT-IN ANODES SO YOU DON'T NEED TO REMOVE THE MANIFOLDS TO GET TO THE BLASTED THINGS.

Half the owners I have talked to don't even know those anodes are in the manifolds.
Click to expand...



Not sure how many people are aware that as of the intro of AK1 they now have 12 anodes, 2 behind each exhaust manifold, three down each bank of cylinders accessible behind the manifolds after removal, and here's the best one, two mounted in the water gallery between the engine block and the mount case necessitating removal of the power head, a 6 hour job to replace two anodes the size of the BF20 anodes, seriously, I don't know what the engineers at Honda are thinking.
 
Planned obsolescence!

Seriously - I cannot find any of those other anodes in any of the parts diagrams. Do you have a link to anything that shows them or a source?

Thanks.
 
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