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replacing top seal on lower unit 60hp 1970 hydro electric johnson

A hefty bench vice can be used to push the bearing in.-------Or the old trusty ----bearing in the freezer and housing in boiling water method is used.-----Bearing likely falls in that way.
 
joereeves said:
BTW... how did the bearing surface of the drive-shaft look?
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It looks ok, no pitting or gouging. Although without some fairly fine measuring tools its pretty hard to gauge wear. I guess im just going to have to go through the exercise and see how it feels after the new bearing is installed.
 
Len walls said:
It looks ok, no pitting or gouging. Although without some fairly fine measuring tools its pretty hard to gauge wear. I guess im just going to have to go through the exercise and see how it feels after the new bearing is installed.
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My guess is that you're safe pertaining to the drive-shaft. If it was worn, it would be obvious to the bare eye.

The program wouldn't let me say *n*a*k*e*d* eye. :cool:
 
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Just an update. I found the bearing at a local bearing supply outfit. The original bearing is a thorrington needle bearing part number bha1812, not the most common bearing on the shelf but they managed to order me one in. The cost of the bearing was $26.95 NZD which equates to about $19 USD.

A nice little bonus was in store when they produced the oil seals for $3.80 a piece. About $2.60USD, the marine suppliers have the seals listed at $22.00 each.

So all said, I have acquired the bearing and 3x oil seals for less than $45 NZD or about $30USD.

The equivalent from our local johnson/evinrude dealer would have set me back $253 plus our sales tax of 15% equating to about $199 USD.

So far this hairbrained adventure is looking positive!
 
Len walls said:
The cost of the bearing was $26.95 NZD which equates to about $19 USD...... they produced the oil seals for $3.80 a piece. I have acquired the bearing and 3x oil seals for less than $45 NZD or about $30USD....... The equivalent from our local johnson/evinrude dealer would have set me back $253 plus our sales tax of 15% equating to about $199 USD.
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That's really great... I hope your luck continues to hold. A 15% sales tax?? Who handles the government there... Jesse James and Al Capone? That's outrageous!
 
Yea it's called GST goods and service tax. New Zealand maybe one of the best places to live but it's also one of the highest taxed places to live. It's a sad reality of having a small population with such a large land area. We get the snot taxed out of us
 
Sometimes a high taxrate results in a low crime rate.----But it is the government that legally steals your money and gives it away to folks who are less ambitious so to speak.
 
racerone said:
Sometimes a high taxrate results in a low crime rate.----But it is the government that legally steals your money and gives it away to folks who are less ambitious so to speak.
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Yep and it tends to breed generational dependency on the welfare system.

But to be fair only a small pittance of the tax take goes on welfare here in NZ. The cost of infrastructure over such a landmass doesn't change according to population. The low population here tends to necessitate high tax rates.

and the fact that governments think they should dictate everything we do doesn't help either :p
 
Ok, I've fixed the seals and the solenoid wires, I've put new type c oil in after two kero flushes and an oil flush.

I'm going to go back in one more time and recheck the positioning of the solenoids and the plungers but I'm not overly optimistic...

Still this stubborn case won't shift. I'm starting to think there's something a little more wrong with the gearing and I'm not really looking forward to pulling it further apart.

Does anyone have any idea if there is another mechanical shift lower unit that can be installed onto this engine?
 
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You are aware that the driveshaft must be turning (causing the oil pump to be functioning) in order for the unit to shift aren't you?
 
I know it's a PITA but the measurement of the plunger to solenoids must be taken with the solenoid "IN" the lower unit.

The top of the plunger must be 1/64" below the top of the solenoid.
 
The shift function can be tested before installing the lower unit.---I do it all the time.------Use a battery and a manual test for just nuetral as well.-----Interested in how to do that ??
 
racerone said:
The shift function can be tested before installing the lower unit.---I do it all the time.------Use a battery and a manual test for just nuetral as well.-----Interested in how to do that ??
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Yes I would be very interested, I've seen it suggested elsewhere onsite that using a drill might work.... I'm not sure of the direction but I'd guess it's clockwise?
 
joereeves said:
I know it's a PITA but the measurement of the plunger to solenoids must be taken with the solenoid "IN" the lower unit.

The top of the plunger must be 1/64" below the top of the solenoid.
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I've pulled the unit again and will be looking at the spacing. I'm fairly sure my rewiring wasn't good enough though as I noticed some fluctuation in the ohms. This is obviously a potentially wet area so I'm quite sure nothing less than a water tight electrical feed will suffice.

I have completely removed the old loom and will be rewiring the solenoids from inside the casing. It looks far more diligent to use some oil proof silicone to plug the pass through as a stopper rather than mess about soldering heat shrinking and siloconing joins.
 
Test shift funtion without battery.-----Mount lower unit in normal running position.----Do not drain oil.----Remove solenoid cover.---------Hold solenoid plunger down .----Rotate driveshaft the way the motor runs.-----Unit should shift after about one turn of the driveshaft.------Report the result of this test.
 
Ok so ignore that last post, I got the young fella to cone out and give me a hand, he spun the drive shaft with a wrench a good speed and I pressed down a lot harder on the plunger with a screwdriver handle. The prop shaft went I to reverse after about a half spin of what appeared to be neutral.
 
I'm also eyeballing these plungers, 1/64 " is less than half a millimeter if I have my conversions correct. That in my experience should only just be barely perceivable with the ***** eye. Looks to me as if the plungers are sitting noticeably below the solenoid, which in my estimation would not give them far to travel.

I'm not schooled up on exactly how the activation levers work but from the looks of this setup the action of all the working parts appears to be extremely fine.
 
????------That only appears that way because the motor is not running.----------Oil pressure / flow would hold the plunger off the seat.------You have now successfully tested the mechanical function of the shift system.
 
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Ok, so here's a pic of the top plunger. Looks as if someone's wound all the slack out of it but I maybe wrong. Perhaps you guys in your experience will know off the top of your hats if that much exposed thread looks normal?
P_20160104_030203_HDR.jpg
 
racerone said:
????------That only appears that way because the motor is not running.----------Oil pressure / flow would hold the plunger off the seat.------You have now successfully tested the mechanical function of the shift system.
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Thanks for the tip racer, it was a good one :)

I'm very optimistic now I know the mechanics and hydraulics are working but I believe the plunger and solenoid spacing is critical here.

since I purchased this thing in a not working condition I have no idea of what the previous owner was up too but I do know that someone was in this unit making repairs at sometime past and they evidently didn't use the correct oil.

I wouldn't put it passed a tinkerer to play around with the plunger and it does appear to me as if both plungers are wound right onto their shafts at full capacity and the static factory measurements don't tee up to my mind with what I see (not that I've measured the distances but as I said before they don't look right by eye).
 
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Your best bet is to follow advice to the letter and not add your own ideas.-------Adjust the plunger so that it is 1/64th below.-That is just a little less than 1/2 mm.-----Report when you have done that.---- Only then can you test it on the bench using a 12 volt battery.
 
racerone said:
Your best bet is to follow advice to the letter and not add your own ideas.-------Adjust the plunger so that it is 1/64th below.-That is just a little less than 1/2 mm.-----Report when you have done that.---- Only then can you test it on the bench using a 12 volt battery.
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ok will do, I'm unsure though as to what the 'top of the solenoid' is because they have a rubber cap on top.

I'll have a play about with the spacing and see were that gets to.

From the amount of views on this thread im starting to feel obligated to get this unit working again in the interest of the better good. Lol
 
once more,-----Not sure what you mean with " rubber cap " here.----- Just post a picture of all the solenoid parts and one of the solenoids assembled.
 
The rubber cap I'm talking about is the brown rubber part you will see on my last pic. It's plugged into the top of the solenoid body. Obviously it's not a functioning part of the solenoid as it's rubber. The plungers in the solenoinds sit well below that and more than half a mm (1/64) below the top of the actual solenoid body by eye.

I will try to post a pic but my phone camera is crap.
 
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