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I would just put a bolt through it with washers and tighten the nut to pull the bearing into place.
BTW... how did the bearing surface of the drive-shaft look?
It looks ok, no pitting or gouging. Although without some fairly fine measuring tools its pretty hard to gauge wear. I guess im just going to have to go through the exercise and see how it feels after the new bearing is installed.
The program wouldn't let me say *n*a*k*e*d* eye.
The cost of the bearing was $26.95 NZD which equates to about $19 USD...... they produced the oil seals for $3.80 a piece. I have acquired the bearing and 3x oil seals for less than $45 NZD or about $30USD....... The equivalent from our local johnson/evinrude dealer would have set me back $253 plus our sales tax of 15% equating to about $199 USD.
Sometimes a high taxrate results in a low crime rate.----But it is the government that legally steals your money and gives it away to folks who are less ambitious so to speak.
You are aware that the driveshaft must be turning (causing the oil pump to be functioning) in order for the unit to shift aren't you?
The shift function can be tested before installing the lower unit.---I do it all the time.------Use a battery and a manual test for just nuetral as well.-----Interested in how to do that ??
I know it's a PITA but the measurement of the plunger to solenoids must be taken with the solenoid "IN" the lower unit.
The top of the plunger must be 1/64" below the top of the solenoid.
????------That only appears that way because the motor is not running.----------Oil pressure / flow would hold the plunger off the seat.------You have now successfully tested the mechanical function of the shift system.
Your best bet is to follow advice to the letter and not add your own ideas.-------Adjust the plunger so that it is 1/64th below.-That is just a little less than 1/2 mm.-----Report when you have done that.---- Only then can you test it on the bench using a 12 volt battery.