MarineEngine.com does not offer troubleshooting assistance or repair advice by email or by telephone.
You are invited to join our public Boat Repair Forum to seek assistance from other members.
You may also visit the Boat Motor Manuals section of our site to obtain a service manual.
Well if it’s only hand tight then I’ll need new lock nuts because mine are marginal. Also, I put the sealant between transmission and drive, like the manual says(I’m using aviation permatex) and not sure how well I can get the feeler gauge in there. Do I need to do it with the drive in forward?I just checked my book calls for .004 inches preload on the bearing.
What did ricardo say between .001 and .003 inch with the bolts hand tight?
Actually between .003" and .004".
I shoot for .003" with the two cap screws and two nuts just snug (using a wrench with light pressure), and prior to the O-rings being installed!
IMO, this is a far more accurate method than that of using the OEM codes to calculate the shim value!
The lower bearing is for forwad gear with a left hand prop it clamps the bearing tight so it dont spin under extreme loads.
Yes, when installed permanently (with the two new O-rings and fasteners tight) the lower bearing becomes squeezed so that it will not spin!
When shimmed correctly, the bearing becomes squeezed (aka pre-loaded), and the two cases will come tightly together closing any gap.
Under-shimming = risk of bearing spinning.
Over-shimming = risk of lazy O-ring compression.
I just checked my book calls for .004 inches preload on the bearing.
I do not know if the Volvo Penta OEM service manual gives this info..... I have not seen it. They tend to explain using the codes.
Well if it’s only hand tight then I’ll need new lock nuts because mine are marginal. Also, I put the sealant between transmission and drive, like the manual says(I’m using aviation permatex) and not sure how well I can get the feeler gauge in there. Do I need to do it with the drive in forward?
This feeler gauge "Check" is done prior to the O-rings, prior to any sealant, and with the four fasteners just snug.
Took awhile to get that damn thing on the spindle.... finally got it to go. Also was given wrong seal and had to go get another. It’s loosely bolted together now.
I didnt see anything about putting gasket maker between the housings i dont imagine it will hurt anything.
NOTE:
We can use water proof grease if running in river/lake water.
I use QuickSilver "Perfect Seal" for drives that are salt water destine.
Those two o-rings are new. We’re talking about the o-rings between the transmission and intermediate drive correct? The big one and little one?
Yes, the two O-rings between the transmission and the Intermediate Housing.
The small one seals around the oil drain back tube, and the larger one seals around the lower driven gear bearing retainer.
Still don’t understand why I would bolt the transmission down until the required gap is obtained,
You would NOT bolt the transmission down for it's final time until the shim pack value has been established.
Checking the "gap" is only part of what is required to establish the correct shim pack value.
(see below)
then pull it apart and add the o-rings and bolt it down again, this time without worrying about any gap. I didn’t take the transmission apart besides removing the yoke to replace u-joints...
OK..... in order to obtain the required shim pack (squeeze against the bearing), we must go through this procedure.
With the O-rings NOT installed or in place, we snug the bolts until the unit begins to compress the shim pack.
Next, we take our first feeler gauge measurement (take many measurements...... up to 5 or 6) between the transmission and the Intermediate Housing faces.
If the gap measured .010", we would remove .007" from the shim pack value, ending up with a squeeze of .003".
If the gap measured .002", we would add .001" of shim value, ending up with a squeeze of .003".
Now with the shim pack value having been corrected, and with the NEW O-rings in place, we do our final assembly and final tightening of the cap screws and nuts.
so if we’re talking about seating some replacement o-rings inside the transmission, well then they’re the old ones and I never took it apart.
Unless we see signs of oil leaking, the existing and Non-Disassembled O-rings can be left alone.
The manual calls for bolting the trans and intermediate together and torquing to around 28 ft pounds, which I can’t really do with buying a crows foot.
During final assembly, tighten them the best you can.
I use a hex key wrench on the cap screws and an open end wrench on the hex nuts.
I’ve re-read the procedure in the factory manual again. It seems to me that all the measurements (both the official way and the way talked about here) taken are just to determine what size shim to use between the two halves.
If by "two halves" you mean Transmission and Intermediate Housing........ that is correct!
Completely understandable if the transmission had come apart and new seals installed upon reassembly. But since I didn’t take that apart, except to remove the u-joint yoke pinion (main drive gear) from the trans (new rings used), it seems to me that the original shim can be reused and that nothing changed in respect to the shim size. Ah..... but please re-read *** above.
So it looks like I can either torque the thing down, or go hand tight like mentioned here. Either way I need new nyloc nuts and washers.
No..... the final installation requires that the two cap screws and the two nyloc nuts be fully tightened.
If for some reason the drive gives me problems, I’ll deal with it then.
You can roll the dice and hope that the last guy in there did not get the shims out of order, lost one or mixed up......., or you can spend 10 minutes verifying that the shim pack is correct!
Your call!
Ok... got the drive all back together and engine running good. Put it in the water today so I could mark the waterline for bottom paint.. I also started it up and adjusted the idle. How much noise, if any, should I hear from the transmission? Standing on the dock with the motor running I could hear the transmission in neutral.. it wasn’t loud but I knew it was there. Pretty sure I got a ton of oil in the thing.
All AQ series transmissions are designed with hypoid gears. All three gears are rotating when the engine is running.
When set up correctly, these will operate very quietly.
I have hydraulic steering, should be easier to turn than it is... it’ll need more work I guess. I was trying to turn the outdrive from the bracket/arm that the hydraulic piston attaches to. Found a grease zerk I missed before in the steering parts on the bell house but it would NOT take grease.. I’ll habe to remove it and see what’s up.It should turn easy by hand with the cable disconnected. I put a non feedback steerin in because if you take your hand off the wheel it pulls real hard to the left on the hole shot and higher rpms.
I’m getting these out of order...How easy was the drive to turn with the helmut pin out? It is either the fork bushings or the pivot pin in the intermediate housing. Pull the grease zert off of the steering loke (fork) and spray a bunch of WD in and let it soak for a bit then squirt some good grease in there and see if the steering loosens up?