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2003 johnson 60 hp 4 stroke efi engine will not start

I no more than logged out and remembered what I was trying to let you know I did. The timing belt was loose, this was before I had any trouble at all with the engine starting or running, and I tightened it up.
 
Maybe that's exactly what the CMP and CKP codes are trying to say. Timing way off, low compression, throw codes....
Who knows.
Compression must be up towards 200 psi. Lets verify that for sure.

Well, meantime, do you want to check the timing until you can get the compression gauge?

If so, be aware that it is a complicated process to explain by words here.
Maybe I can round up some pics......I will go to the shop, get the manuals, and try to get started on pics.
 
Here are two pics from the manual regarding timing belt / valve timing.

0722151938.jpg

0722151938c.jpg


Study these and find the correlating marks on your engine. The index marks, and the crankshaft pully half-moon cutout are key.
 
When I done maintenance right before I started to have trouble with the engine, I noticed the timing belt had a little play in it, so I tightened it up, now you can move the belt about an 1/8 of an inch. After all that I did maintenance wise I started the engine on the boot and let it run for a little bit.
 
I tried to do a quick reply to let you know that when I done maintenance before any of this trouble started, I noticed that the timing belt was loose, so I tightened up the tensioning pulley, now you can move the belt about 1/8 of an inch.
 
The top of my flywheel looks different from the pictures you sent. If I can remember how to put this pic on here.
 
I have tried everything I Know to attach a pic of the top of my engine without any success. If you have any suggestions let me know and I will try again.
 
Ron1 said:
The top of my flywheel looks different from the pictures you sent. If I can remember how to put this pic on here.
Click to expand...

This pic is with the flywheel removed.
You have to use a flashlight to look under the rear rim of the flywheel to see the crankshaft timing belt pulley.
I said it aint easy.
 
I re-checked the compression today it was even lower than before, it was 90 psi on 1-3, and 95 on 4. I believe you are right about the valves. But that being the case, shouldn't I have hard a noise when it jumped timing. Unless the EMM is the cause for it being out of timing, is that possibly the cause?
 
Ron1 said:
Is there any check I can make to determine if the EMM is faulty.
Click to expand...

No.

Why haven't you compared the pics I posted with your engine's timing?
Take the plastic flywheel shroud off, examine the camshaft pulley area, and compare to pics.
That is easy to do.

Then look under aft rim of flywheel with a flashlight and examine the timing belt pulley on the crank.

Once you see what and how and why (figure it out) then turn the engine clockwise until the crank index mark is
as shown in the pic. Then look at the cam index mark; it should be right there as shown in the pics, if it is still in time.

EMM has NOTHING to do with valve timing. How could it? Valve timing is a fixed belt with cogs.....
 
I have worked on engines that had a valve sticking, but usually only one or two valves, never all of them. This is looking like a valve job, yes or no.
Thanks Ron1
 
I meant to ask, when you do a compression check on these engines, do you take all the plugs out before you start?
 
I just realized that when I done the compression test the last time, I did not have the throttle at WOT. How will this effect the compression test?
 
I know this.....the compression must be up in the 200 psi range.
According to you, it is way down. I have to rely on what you have posted as being accurate information.
You are sure the compression is low? You tried two gauges? If so, and the compression is truly low, then you must correct that.
Correction checking includes checking the valve timing. You say that is right.
So, the only thing you can do next is remove the powerhead, and disassemble it for inspection to see what is causing the low compression.

Also, it is very unlikely the valves would have a defect that would cause ALL cylinders to be down in compression EQUALLY.

You MUST remove the powerhead to get the cylinder head off. It cannot be done otherwise.

There are some serious "gotchas" with this engine. It requires the factory service manual and diligent study of the R and R process.

Powerhead to engine holder gasket is one problem, along with installing the camshaft driveshaft.

At this point you should have a qualified DF70 mechanic right there to assist if needed.
Where are you located?
 
Compression? Probably gauges or proceedure. How about checking your fuel for contamination? Many motors with similar symptoms that I get here to repair are infected with water. Boats stored outside with a plastic fuel tank are the most likely suspects. UV gets to the tanks and then the gauge or hose outlet fixtures begin to let rain water in. Pontoon boats are the worst. Ethanol will suspend its alcohol content weight in water, after that watch out. I always use non oxy and premium grade 90 to 91 octane. Good luck, brother.....thanks for your service. I salute you.
 
Last edited:
In response to timguy, I appreciate you acknowledging my service to this wonderful country we live in.
About the boat, one of the first things I done after I began having trouble was to disconnect the fuel tank, empty it and put 90 octane gas in it and pump the gas out of the VST tank and started with fresh gas.
Thanks for your input.
Ron
 
To daselbee, I don't have the words to tell you how much I appreciate your help.
I have done so many different things over the years, everything from overhauling my first engine at age 16, to repairing computers in the Army, to building computers after I got our of the Army, to doing electrical work since 1985, to fixing the reared in my Dodge pickup even after the Dodge place said I could not take the reared apart and put it back together, they had paid $10,000 for a machine to setup rearends. I not only set it up, I have been driving it for more than 5 years since then. I believe that I could do most anything to this engine with the help of an expert such as yourself, but my problem is that because of this PTSD I have not been able to hold a job for very long ever since my wife of 30 years died. Between all the pain in my feet, legs and back, I can't stand for long. I can't even remember what I was trying to tell you.
Thanks for your help.
Ron
 
Well, I will stick with you if you want, to get deep into this engine.
I will PM you my phone numbers.

First...get this quick before it is gone.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-2003-J...500-/171748880581?hash=item27fd07f0c5&vxp=mtr

Then, double check your work regarding compression checking. It is VERY unusual for all four cylinders to be down the SAME AMOUNT.
I don't want you doing unnecessary work.

If the valves were burnt, the compressions would vary....you see what I mean?
If the head gasket was blown, it is not likely to affect all cylinders equally...

Double check compression with a different gauge. Make sure you have the gauge o-ring sealing properly against the spark plug hole in the head.
Throttle open, throttle closed...makes no difference. Spark plugs out, crank engine until gauge quits climbing. Post values you get.

Be aware that this engine was made by Suzuki, and if Evinrude parts are not available, get what you need from a Suzuki dealer.

Company called Brownspoint in New Jersey has everything you would ever need, but it is full price retail.
Boats dot net also.... Local Suzuki dealer....
Or of course, Evinrude Johnson dealers.

Where are you located?
 
Hey Ron, is this motor exposed, or ever been exposed to sea water? Is there any chance it OVERHEATED on that trip down the river when it slowly came to a stop? Yes, where do you run the motor, weeds, scum, debris?
 
I bought this boat new and it has never been in saltwater. It's a pontoon boat, and I have forgotten to put stay build fuel stabilizer in it over the winter and the next time I went to start it six months later the engine would not turn over one full turn before it would start, starting has never been an issue with this boat until now. The engine overheat indicated light never came on. When my water pump went out it was about 50 degrees outside and I took the engine cover of and went slow and it never overheated. I really believe that daselbee is in the right ballpark, because the compression is way down, unless the compression gages that I rented were bad, I can not find my gage, I only loaned my tools out to friends and family, but somehow my tools never seem to find their way back to me. I have run the boat in water so shallow it churned up silt, but the engine never lost the tell tell sign, or stream of water coming out of the engine. I can't see very well anymore, and it takes me forever to type anything and this site keeps telling me that I am not logged in, but I go to the top of the page and it has the logout sign there. I loose my train of thought, if I get distracted by anything. I hope that I have answered all your questions.
Thanks
Ron1
 
The other day one of my son's bought me a Seloc 2002-2007 Repair manual, I hope this will do, if you think the manual you listed above is better, please let me know I will get it.
 
If I can get the money I will buy a new compression gage and do the test over, I'm sorry about how long it takes me to get things done, but I have very little money coming in, and because I can't go anywhere or do anything, sometimes it's hard for me to even get out of bed. I will try harder.
Thanks for all your help.
Ron1
 
The last time I was working on my boat I noticed that the trough under the boat that the engine mounts on has a 4 inch Crack on both sides, have you ever heard the expression when it rains it pours, first the trim went out then the engine will not start now the cracks in the engine trough, what's next.
 
I pointed you to the proper manual. You MUST get it before it gets gone. That is a very good price for it.
The Seloc manual will be virtually useless.
 
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