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Winterising Question....

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DavidW2009

Regular Contributor
Is there anything wrong with using windshield washer fluid as anti-freeze to winterise an I/O? Or mixing the washer fluid 50/50 with RV anti-freeze? The washer fluid contains methanol.

I have searched another forum on this and only came up with a few posts that didn't answer the question.
 
I would go down to your local Marine store and purchase a marine engine antifreeze that has salt neutralizers in it. I have installed more freeze damaged engines this past season due to cheap winterizing than I have in the last three years. Winterizing is not the place to cut corners.
 
A few years ago, I bought a small stash of washer fluid on sale. I've been using it in my vehicles and observed it never freezes.
It is environmentally safer than ethylene glychol (auto type anti-freeze).

The concern is, will the methanol adversely effect hoses, couplings, etc.? In my vehicles, the washer hoses do not deteriorate due to this washer fluid.

Also, on my OMC Cobra, 2.3L, there are only three drain plugs for the cooling system:

1. Engine block (starboard) (I don't understand why there is not a drain on the port side of the block, also)
2. P/S cooler (starboard)
3. Exhaust manifold (starboard)

Is that all? I checked the manual and it has those three locations to drain for winterising.

I am planning on dropping the outdrive down, loosening the alternator and P/S belts, draining the three plugs, closing the plugs, and then adding some type of anti-freeze at the t-stat housing. While I'm adding at the t-stat, I'll rotate the circulation pump by hand.
 
Theoretically if you drain it well enough then no anti freeze is required because air won't freeze and cause any damage. Sounds like you got the right drain's only the V6's and 8's have 2 drains on the block (one on each side). I've always used glycol mixed with water because it has rust inhibitors. I always drained it out in the spring (captured it) before starting up the engines. If it's raw water cooled and the block drain is a petcock remove it and use a piece of wire or ?? to poke into the hole sometimes sediment gathers there and you want to make sure the block drains completely. I use to pour the A/F down through the t-stat until it came out the block drain and pour it in the front of the exhaust manifold until it came out the rear.
 
I makes no sense to drain the engine of fluid and then fill it back up again with something to prevent the fluid from freezing and cracking the block. If there's nothing in it to freeze then you needn't worry. Just drain it and walk away.

The main reason methanol is not a popular anti freeze is the fact that it is going to evaporate quickly. In automotive use it is not a good option. For just sitting around there is no reason not to use it, except that putting anti freeze of any kind in a drained engine is kinda dumb..
 
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I see a possible benefit of pouring in some kind of anti-freeze, in that if there are some pockets or puddles of water inside. It will mix with the water and prevent freezing. I'm concerned about making sure everything is drained. This is the first winterising of an I/O I've ever done. The P.O. did the last winterising of this boat. Once I get thru this cycle, I'll know what works, and hopefully not have to discover what doesn't.

Fortunately, the drain cocks all work when I tested them this week. I may just go with just draining, and jacking the trailer up at couple places to get the water to flow out the drains completely.

You are right about the evaporation rate of methanol. That may not work well in protecting a block. It may be a waste of time.
 
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>I see a possible benefit of pouring in some kind of anti-freeze, in that if there are some pockets or puddles of >water inside. It will mix with the water and prevent freezing.

With the engine drained, there is plenty of room for any traces of water to freeze/expand without doing any damage. A cup's worth of water will not harm anything if it were to freeze, but by leaving the drain cocks open there shouldn't be much of anything left inside 'cept a very little bit. Just be sure that you close them at recom.

If you haven't done so, and this is a new-to-you boat, plan on replacing all the consumables in the springtime at recommissioning. All new belts, hoses, hose clamps (buy AWAB ones from Jamestown Distributors) thermostat, impeller, cap rotor wires plugs points and condenser, oil&filter, fuel filter, fuel pump and water circulating pump. Gonna cost a several hundred bucks in parts, but must be done so you know when and what services have been performed. Don't trust that the PO did it right or that outward appearance assures that the parts are still good. Start getting parts together now so you'll have it all ready in March.

There are also several wintertime chores to do to help alleviate your boating Jones. Clean and touch up any rust spots on the engine (despite what they say, you can paint in the cold). Clean up corrosion on the drive. Have the prop checked at a propeller shop. Replace the drive bellows, clean, wire brush and renovate all the wire connections. Spray exposed metal with Boeshield. Grease trailer bearings. Check the trailer lights and brakes. Grease the trailer winch. Check wheels, lugs and tires (make sure that they aren't rust welded to the hubs) and spare.
All these will save you from a deadlined boat during the season when you want to just jump in and go. Better to know you did your maintenance in the off season so you can have safe and worry free boating.
 
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