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Windlass ground connection problem

N

nigb

New member
Windlass stopped working in my Rinker 250 cruiser. I have 12v to the breaker switch but when I meter the negative & positive connections on the windlass up/down switch i only get 7 volts. If i transfer negative test lead to independent ground i get 12v so I assume bad ground connection. The negative up/down switch cable has a label to battery. However very hard to trace where it goes & the negative terminals on my batteries go to the engine ground & the hydraulic pump. Any ideas where a windlass negative lead would connect apart from battery. If I can't figure it out I will run a new lead direct to battery.
 
some use buss bars as local grounding blocks and tie back to the battery thru them.

Tracing is usually a prerequisite to running new wires as the existing path is usually the shortest/most accessible.

You can determine which side the bad connection is on using the battery as the reference point - may require long leads than what came with the meter...
 
It could be a bad relay but most likely it's corrosion. Start by cleaning all the cable connects at both ends both +/- and see if that fixes it
 
makomark said:
some use buss bars as local grounding blocks and tie back to the battery thru them.

Tracing is usually a prerequisite to running new wires as the existing path is usually the shortest/most accessible.

You can determine which side the bad connection is on using the battery as the reference point - may require long leads than what came with the meter...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the replies. I ran a cable direct from battery negative to windlass up/down negative connector & windlass works so definitely bad connection. I have tried to follow negative cable from up/down switch but it seems to go forward then across below all the wiring at the helm. No sign of a busbar under helm. As I write this I didn't check for busbar behind cabin breakers on other side of boat i will check that tomorrow.
 
The cable I have bad ground on is cable E at the control switch end. No relay & it is 6awg wire to & from control switch. According to this diagram it should go direct to negative terminal of battery which it doesn't. It must go to a negative bus which is what I can't find at moment
1000033778.jpg
 
You will find most every manufacturer provided diagram shows their product hooked up directly to the battery...which is ideal but usually doesn't happen in the real world...I prefer to treat the 'factory diagram's BATTERY' as the power source for the item...

It is possible the 'bad end' corroded and or came apart...you will never know until you trace out the original wire...
 
AllDodge said:
ok, then I would look at the switch
The switch is basically swapping the leads going to the windlass + and -.
Click to expand...
No the switch works fine when I run a lead straight from battery. It is cable E with the problem & i can't find where other end terminates
 
nigb said:
No the switch works fine when I run a lead straight from battery. It is cable E with the problem & i can't find where other end terminates
Click to expand...
"IF" drawing is correct then it terminates at the Bat

Remove ends and measure ohms.
Should be very low, if not look real close at the terminal ends. Look under insulation for corrosion
 
Well I am thankful for you guys telling me to persist & trace wires as at the back of the engine bay there is an earth point hidden by flexible conduit with the other end of windlass cable broken off. Just need to crimp new lug & clean up earth point. Thanks again
1000033818.jpg
 
That wire looks rather Green....make sure the copper is clean and in decent shape before crimping anything to the end....and use some heat shrink tubing to seal it up...

Ideally, the copper should be tinned...if it is not, you may want to consider replacing it ...
 
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