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What to look for on used 225?

VanW

New member
Looking at buying a used 225 serial number BAC(or G)1101246 would like to know what I should look for before purchasing. Would also like to find out what year it is.
 
How many hours on the engine?

Yes, a compression test by all means. Each cylinder should be at about 200 psi with no more than 10% difference between lowest and highest reading. Testing should be done on a cold engine, all spark plugs out, throttle full open, and a fully charged battery. But even if compression is low, a valve adjustment and possibly a decarb will normally bring them back up to specs. IMO valve adjustment on this engine are a serious pain. That's one of the few things I pay professionals to do about every 400 hours, although the next time up, I may try it myself.

Pull any fault codes from the ECU. It's best to have a dealer hook up the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) or Dr. H to get a detailed readout of hours and operating history and any fault codes. If that is not available, you can pull fault codes yourself using a paperclip. Send and e-mail to me and I will reply with a write-up of the procedure. [email protected].

There are two service bulletins on this engine - #56 and #70. Try to find out if either or both have been done from the seller or by calling Honda Customer Service at 770-497-6400. Give them your engine's SN and ask if they have a record if either SB has been performed. If you need a copy of either SB, send me an e-mail.

#70 is pretty simple. If you get an alarm and the MIL light goes on, you then pull fault codes. If you get a fault code "1", replace the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S).

#56 involves the HO2 sensor also. The original exhaust tubes (from SN BAGJ 10000001 to 1500324), under certain circumstances, would allow water and mist to get to the HO2 sensor and destroy it. The SB explains how to change out the exhaust tubes for an upgraded design. All the parts come in a kit. On Boats.net it's somewhere around $150. But the labor is fairly intensive. Several folks on this forum have done the job themselves.

Also, your engine may have the problem with the mid-shaft bushing failing. It's pretty easy to inspect every time you change out your water pump impeller. There is a fairly good video on YOUTUBE showing how to change it out and the part numbers needed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44ZaDzNck1I

If you purchase the engine, then the first thing to do is change the oil & oil filter, change the lower unit oil, change the low pressure fuel filter and change the high pressure fuel filter. The high pressure fuel filter is critical for these engines to run right.

Having said all of the above, these are very good engines IF MAINTAINED CONSISTENTLY AND CORRECTLY. I'm approaching 1900 hours on mine, and I expect it to go well over 3000 hours. The USCG regularly puts over 5000 hours on these engines.
 
How many hours on the engine?

Yes, a compression test by all means. Each cylinder should be at about 200 psi with no more than 10% difference between lowest and highest reading. Testing should be done on a cold engine, all spark plugs out, throttle full open, and a fully charged battery. But even if compression is low, a valve adjustment and possibly a decarb will normally bring them back up to specs. IMO valve adjustment on this engine are a serious pain. That's one of the few things I pay professionals to do about every 400 hours, although the next time up, I may try it myself.

Pull any fault codes from the ECU. It's best to have a dealer hook up the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) or Dr. H to get a detailed readout of hours and operating history and any fault codes. If that is not available, you can pull fault codes yourself using a paperclip. Send and e-mail to me and I will reply with a write-up of the procedure. [email protected].

There are two service bulletins on this engine - #56 and #70. Try to find out if either or both have been done from the seller or by calling Honda Customer Service at 770-497-6400. Give them your engine's SN and ask if they have a record if either SB has been performed. If you need a copy of either SB, send me an e-mail.

#70 is pretty simple. If you get an alarm and the MIL light goes on, you then pull fault codes. If you get a fault code "1", replace the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S).

#56 involves the HO2 sensor also. The original exhaust tubes (from SN BAGJ 10000001 to 1500324), under certain circumstances, would allow water and mist to get to the HO2 sensor and destroy it. The SB explains how to change out the exhaust tubes for an upgraded design. All the parts come in a kit. On Boats.net it's somewhere around $150. But the labor is fairly intensive. Several folks on this forum have done the job themselves.

Also, your engine may have the problem with the mid-shaft bushing failing. It's pretty easy to inspect every time you change out your water pump impeller. There is a fairly good video on YOUTUBE showing how to change it out and the part numbers needed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44ZaDzNck1I

If you purchase the engine, then the first thing to do is change the oil & oil filter, change the lower unit oil, change the low pressure fuel filter and change the high pressure fuel filter. The high pressure fuel filter is critical for these engines to run right.

Having said all of the above, these are very good engines IF MAINTAINED CONSISTENTLY AND CORRECTLY. I'm approaching 1900 hours on mine, and I expect it to go well over 3000 hours. The USCG regularly puts over 5000 hours on these engines.

Ok, sent you an email. I'm in Central America, so I'm on my own as far as support goes. Any info is appreciated.
 
Since you're looking into buying a used unit, definitely check how many hours it has and the year. Both info will help you figure out the condition of the engine.

Where do you plan on purchasing it?
 
Since you're looking into buying a used unit, definitely check how many hours it has and the year. Both info will help you figure out the condition of the engine.

Where do you plan on purchasing it?

In Honduras, there is no dealer support I'm not sure how many hours it has or even what year it is.
 
Also, this engine has no rigging. So I'll need to purchase that if I go forward, but it's hard to tell what I need for wiring harnesses.
 
BAC(or G)1101246 for a serial number is probably either BAGJ-1101246 or BAHJ-1101246 indicates that it is a 2003. Model BF225A3 At least that is what it is in the USA.

For rigging you will need....

A 20 wire main harness The come in lengths from 10 to 50 ft. See Accessory Manual
http://marine.honda.com/parts/accessories/categories/harnesses

A key switch Assembly......for Fuel Inject PGFI Panel You can also buy the key switch panel and 20 wire harness as a set. http://marine.honda.com/parts/accessories/categories/key-switches

Remote Control Unit (for throttle and shift) It will depend on your boat, which one you will get based on the layout of your console. If you go for the control box with key switch and 4 lights, you will not need a separate key switch assembly. http://marine.honda.com/parts/accessories/categories/controls

Control Cables - Vary by length http://marine.honda.com/parts/accessories/categories/control-cables

You may also need connectors at the ends of the control cables at the engine end (if you do not have them with the motor)

Of course also....mounting bolts, prop hardware, Fuel line and bulb.

That should get you going....

Mike
 
So I can just get
[h=5]39552-ZW7-020AH and 06240-ZW5-U40[/h]Do the control cables take special ends? Currently has a Yamaha Saltwater SeriesII.
 
Since you are choosing the U40 shifter and have a yamaha. Most likely the U40 will fit perfectly in the Yamaha shifter opening....including screw holes.

If your Yamaha throttle and shift cables are still good....smooth easy movement....you can use them with the 225. If there is any doubt, replace them.

The shifter ends of the control cables come with the new shifter. The ones at the motor end, come with the motor. Most likely, you do not get them with your motor. You will need two 24618-ZY3-000 and two 24619-ZY3-000.

Mike
 
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