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Timer base question CDI 133-3533 89 Johnson GT200

jason17

Member
I'm tired of dealing with CDI electronics so I'm going to purchase new Sierra power pack and Regulator. Stator is CDI fairly new. Timer base came with the boat bought back in 08/13. I ran the resistance check and DVA check for the timer base and stator in accordance with the CDI provided installation guides and I'm coming up with some problems with the timer base. I read some where that the resistance checks my be messed up because of the scr's and the DMM doesn't read them correctly so I'm going to just jump to the DVA readings.

brown to brown/yellow - wants 150v or more - got 280v roughly on each side
orange to orange/black - wants 10-24v - got 13-16v

port side connector
white to purple & blue & green - wants 0.6v or more - got 5-6v on each

starboard side connector
white to purple & blue & green - wants 0.6v or more - got 5-6v on each

white to black/white - wants 5v or more - got 1.0v +\- 0.2v

The white to black/white DVA reading was way off. I did swap the DMM leads and the voltage got even lower... Would this pop my new power pack? Timer bases are so dang expensive. Not even sure of these wires purposes either...
 
So I'm now torn and I don't know what to believe. One troubleshooting manual said something and another said something else. image.jpgimage.jpgUnder these guidelines it's ok. under another it's not. What about QuickStart? The first one is from CDI Practical engine ignition troubleshooting guide 6th edition and the other is from the installation and troubleshooting guide from the CDI timer base 133-3533. Both are from the website.
 
What is your motor doing / not doing ?---------Have you done any other trouble shooting besides the reliable electronic bits ?
 
Call CDI and have them walk you through testing the diodes in the timer base. The timer base can fry your pack. I change the pack and base together.

I had a bad timer base that would let the engine start and idle, once you raised the rpms it would burn out the pack. The diode was failing in the base and took a little rpm to let the voltage go thru.

I think CDI is producing the packs for Seirra.
 
I cannot be 100% accurate to the accuse QuickStart to hesitate engage after engine start or to cut off and on while idling around in gear, but it sure sounds like a rise in rpm of the 300-400 range. My CDI regulator died again so I don't have a tach (Sierra on the way). I'm dealing with a J200STLCEB, 1989 Johnson GT200 3.0 looper with QuickStart. It will pass the 7/16" gap spark test, 80# compression all around. Stator, regulator and power pack replaced within the past 2 years. The only thing I didn't purchase was a timer base. The timer base that came with the boat when I bought it was a CDI, so it was changed sometime by previous owner but when I have no idea. I have ordered a new Sierra PP and Regulator. I wanted to basically test everything I possibly could to verify that my stator was good and the timer base was good so I don't blow anything or any more money(I know it's a B.O.A.T.). The motor runs fine with the current stator and pp and timer base, charging system is crap tho and no tach. But I'm losing faith in CDI and a lot of people I talk to about ignition or charging components for their outboard they say Sierra because of the warranty and/or installs without problems.
 
What you are seeing is typical when trying to debug your capacitive discharge ignition using a pre-printed set of expected measurement values.
Meters act different.
Have you ever wondered why Evinrude always specifies the exact meter to use when taking the measurement? Always a Stevens brand (I don't remember the model number) is called out to use when making voltage/resistance measurements.

Another problem that occurs is that they rarely publish whether or not to make the voltage measurement with the circuit connected or DIS-connected.

CDI is OK with that aspect, but others not so much.

Homemade DVA adapters all produce different readings.

Another problem is that if you are using a timing light on #1 for example when QS is ENGAGED...the timing jumps all over the place. It is never steady until the instant QS drops out....then all is good and steady.

One tool that you may find to be helpful is a breakout box. You can easily probe the circuit and you can connect/disconnect the circuit at will.
 
Well I think I'm going to try and run all my test again. With 3 different DMM's and average the results. If all else fails, leave the timer base cause it starts and runs. I just wanted to provide a little more protection for the PP than a simple "I guess it's ok". At WOT hauling a cool 53 mph it does kinda hiccup. Not sure if it's just because it's an old 2 stroke or what but I never run it WOT anyway, just wanted to see what it had in it. I typically like the 4-4.5k rpm range.
 
Would you please post back with the results across the three meters?
I would expect the voltages to be similar, but any ohms readings will probably vary.

Please let me know?
 
You bet! I'll do ohms as well as DVA. Probably will upset the neighbors too.. Haha. Won't be till at least Wednesday before I get to it tho... So hang on

Might even disconnect the white/black wire to the temperature probe to engage QuickStart.
 
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Well my resistance check has enlightened my knowledge of how the timer base works. Basically the blue/green/purple wires of the TB are for the individual cylinders and the white wire would be the common point. The black/white wire is for voltage to the powerpack to trigger quickstart. Ohms check via the 3 different DMM were very similar below 1M ohm. Above that there were significant differences. I performed my checks on a cold engine and a warm engine. One significant difference was going from white to black/white. On a cold engine I have no continuity and a warm engine I have the required 222 ohms. This proves that I wasn't going crazy when i noticed that quickstart always took a second or two to engage on a cold engine. I'm guessing that the voltage had to build up and overtake the diode to send 5-10v to the PP to trigger quickstart. Also my orange to orange/black wire ohms were too low per CDI, I'm sending that back for warranty. Looks like a known good TB is getting ready to be installed on my engine. Along with a new regulator, powerpack and warrantied stator.
 
What you are seeing is typical when trying to debug your capacitive discharge ignition using a pre-printed set of expected measurement values.
Meters act different.
Have you ever wondered why Evinrude always specifies the exact meter to use when taking the measurement? Always a Stevens brand (I don't remember the model number) is called out to use when making voltage/resistance measurements.

Another problem that occurs is that they rarely publish whether or not to make the voltage measurement with the circuit connected or DIS-connected.

CDI is OK with that aspect, but others not so much.

Homemade DVA adapters all produce different readings.

Another problem is that if you are using a timing light on #1 for example when QS is ENGAGED...the timing jumps all over the place. It is never steady until the instant QS drops out....then all is good and steady.

One tool that you may find to be helpful is a breakout box. You can easily probe the circuit and you can connect/disconnect the circuit at will.
Hi !

You talking exactely about an important "timing" problem i have right now!!! ;-)

( Another problem is that if you are using a timing light on #1 for example when QS is ENGAGED...the timing jumps all over the place. It is never steady until the instant QS drops out....then all is good and steady.)

I waiting a long period soo engine is really hot, rpm run around 600-1000 RPM DEPEND SETTING I TRY AND TIMING JUMPS EVERYTIME... soo i'm not able to set as well like i need i try differents procedures, like (joe reeves) and standard procedure, but fail at each time.

Gt200 1989 ( compression is around 95-102) with new timer base because no fire last year when i buy this beast.

Now he run pretty well but need to be set to prevent damage!!!

Did you have idea for me ??? i'm lost a bit with that mess...

I just recived a new CDI and Don't having time for remplaced it since.

But searching the problem... Quick start are in the CDI i think ?

it's a heat temps sensor problems or CDI ?? About temps i note all the water circut was in mess when i buy that motor last year, and doesn't fine the right schema of the water circut. it can affect the sensor too i supposed?? water pump pressure was very nice.

i don't remember as well if i try to disconected a wire on cdi, for disengaged the Quick start last year when i try at many many times to set timing, at home and on the lake... in memory i think i try to disconected wire at

I'm not an expert in mechanics, but i figure it's somethings logical...

And i'm french from Québec, soo sorry my english was not pretty well! lolll :))

Finally i just recived a new DVA tester and don't know how is works loll hahahah


Thank for ANY help!
 
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