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Testing timer base on 1968 Evinrude 100hp

Does anybody have any information about what the DVA voltage should be for the trigger sensor while cranking?

I realized today I can't test for DVA voltage coming off the powerpack if it's not receiving a signal from the trigger.
 
Did you test for a short between the sensor wires and engine ground? Rarely does the sensor go bad it is normally the anti reverse spring bad or installed wrong.
 
Here is factory testing specs from my old service schools books....
 

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kimcrwbr1 said:
http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/IS-133-5008.pdf
Click to expand...

Yes, I have tested the sensor. BOth the original sensor and that CDI replacement read 5.0 or 5.1 Ohms. I will try removing the anti-reverse spring to eliminate it from the equation, but I can do the test when you move the throttle and see when the spring comes into play and that works.

Does anybody know what the voltage from the trigger should be when working? My DVA adapter will be here tomorrow and if the rain stops I'll hook it up and check.

I'm starting to think the Powerpack is bad again and not reading the trigger signal.
 
faztbullet said:
Here is factory testing specs from my old service schools books....
Click to expand...

Thank you for posting this, it looks like the same insstructions I have in my manual, and similar to the instructions on the CDI website or here:

http://www.outboardignition.com/page28.asp

I have been going through the instructions methodically to eliminate options. The only other possible issue I can think of is bad stator wiring, but while cranking I'm not sure how it would come into play. the wiring seems to be correct from what I have measured, but I don't remember the resistance reading offhand.
 
Another update. I got my DVA meter in the mail and tested the powerpack and the trigger. The powepack will produce up to 300V if I tap the sensor wires together. But when I measure the DVA voltage across the two sensor wires I don't get anything. So I believe I"m still chasing a sensor / trigger issue.

Does anybody know if a bad stator would cause these issues? I plan to try disconnecting it to rule it out unless someone says otherwise.
 
I found another thread that mentions the magnet under the rotor going bad. Both sensors I have spec out as good, but I'm wondering if the magnet has lost it's magnetism. (If you're a Wallace and Gromit fan I know have the "his bungy has lost it's bounce!" quote stuck in my head.

Sounds plausible?

kimcrwbr1 said:
Either a bad senser or the air gap to the rotor is not correct.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks, that sounds correct. I found that you won't get voltage on the blue wire if the sensor isn't triggering. But by triggering it manually I can get over 200V, so I believe the powerpack is still working thankfully!

kimcrwbr1 said:
http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/IS-113-8362.pdf
You should get about 200v on the blue wire going to the coil when cranking.
http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/IS-193-3408.pdf
I believe the stator is just for charging the battery and the ignition runs off battery voltage. Check voltage at the battery engine off and then again once the engine is running. The engine will run without the stator until the battery goes dead.
Click to expand...
 
Another update, still no luck.

I removed the anti-reverse spring completely.

I double checked the resistance of the sensors, still 4.8-4.9 OHM. I checked each wire to ground and found no issues.

I added in the extra wire with diode running from the starter terminal to the 12V going to the powerpack.

If I line up the distributor to cylinder #1 and tap the wires together I get a nice hot spark that jumps a 1/2" gap.

But when I crank I still get nothing. I tried it with a 0.028" gap, 0.0.20" gap and 0.015" gap. I don't get any kind kind of voltage reading with a DVA adaptor connected between to the two sensor wires. And I don't get any sparks when cranking.

I measure about 10V at the 12V powerpack wire when cranking.

I've done every test in the manual and it still doesn't work. I even tried a spare flywheel thinking the flywheel magnets might be going bad, still no luck.

I'm not even sure I can convert it to points, as I don't see the bumps on the crankshaft like the 85hp engine has to open the points.

Any other suggestions or longshots? I've run out of ideas, and I'm afraid the next step is selling this off as a project and getting out of boats for a while.​
 
faztbullet said:
Check step 4 in the testing I posted about using condenser tester to check sensor. Sound like you have bad sensor.
Click to expand...

Do you know how to do that test with a common DMM? Or do I need to take it somewhere with better equipment?

I agree all leads are pointing to a bad sensor. But the current sensor is brand new, never on the water. And the old sensor still specs out at 5 ohms.

If the sensor is working is it possible the flywheel magnets are bad?

I have tried two different flywheels, but while I can see and feel the magnets around the edge of the flywheel I can t sense any near the center.
 
It either the sensor or the amp. If you can get ahold of a Oscope you should see the sensor operate. Check that you have a voltage out from amp to power sensor..
 
I cannot find the speck for air gap for the senser wheel (reluctor) just use a sheet of paper and get it close as possible and see if it makes a difference. Basically the senser is a magnet and it senses when there is a break in the wheel.
 
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