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Stuck bearing carrier

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dave3825us

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Have an 03 Johnson 150 with a 2013 SEI SE 306 and can not get the bearing carrier out. Salt water engine. Wedge and 2 clips removed. Soaked in PB for a week. Soaked in 50/50 acetone/atf for a few days. Dumped a whole can of CRC Freeze Off on it. Used heat on case on and off a few times. Bouncing between harmonic puller and 5 lbs slide hammer. Using standard threaded rod with puller and have broke 2 already. Using 3 foot breaker bar and or 1/2 elec impact (100 ft pounds) They broke at the puller and carrier threads are fine. I know many say heat, which I have done. SEI cautions against prolonged heat. I have watched all the youtube videos and have not seen one that was as stuck as mine. Watched Dangar 150 Evinrude video also. Not sure how long he heated because most videos are edited.


Any other suggestions? Been at this for 2 weeks on and off so far. Also, not a counter rotation. Case is starting to discolor and I have kept the heat moving.

discolored.JPG



Thanks
 
Are you using MAPP gas for heat? Discoloration is normal. That works for me to get them unstuck. You can go to acetylene and oxygen but that's last resort
 
Just to start with I have no experience with this particular model, so I have no idea if this will work, I am just throwing some ideas out there based on other experiences I have had since I randomly scrolled past your thread.

Not being familiar with your model, (and not having a ton of time at the moment to look things up) I would consider trying to pressurize the area behind the bearing carrier if possible. I am dropping a video below of what that process looks like but it is on a different model so not sure if it is an option for you. Basically pick up some air fitting parts and an oil filler fitting (like the one you use for oil changes), and pressurize the lower unit to 50 PSI with a bike pump. It gives you some help from the back side, that plus pulling might get that thing unstuck just enough to break the corrosion buildup. Once you break the buildup its all downhill.


I hope this helps! Sorry if this information is useless for your model but at least it's free!

That thing sounds really stuck. These "Sword in the Stone" adventures are tough but stay patient; you will get that thing out sooner or later and it will feel good when you finally get it out!
 
I may try that but maybe I need to drop the lower unit and reseal the topside first? Did find water in the oil so there will be an air leak somewhere. What is a safe psi that won’t blow out the new seals?
 
Drop the lower unit, and seal it off. Not attached to upper. Pick up on the video at 40 minutes. Notice how the lower is separated and sealed off. You will have to figure out a way to seal the lower unit. You will probably end up making a tool for that.

If you are worried about the psi you can start low and raise it incrementally. Should be ok for 50 -60 psi if you separate the bottom and seal it like this. This is all part of disassembly so you will only be putting pressure on old seals. Presumably you would be replacing those old seals during assembly.
 
Btw, some guys run a setup like this to pressure test the new seals (not at 50 psi of course) for 24 hrs before assembling upper and lower. That way you can be confident no slow leaks are letting water into the oil. So if you keep those tools around you can pressure test your engine anytime you replace seals.
 
Information does not pertain to posters unit, as is not designed like a SD. Also seal seals will blow out at 25-30 psi and 50 psi is ridiculous. In 45+years or servicing engines ,I can count on 1 hand how many carriers I was not able to remove. 1st install some nuts on the all thread rod against carrier to help from pulling threads out. Heat housing around top of carrier till penetrant will flow between carrier edge and housing. Then heat housing at lower end of carrier till penetrant boils and enters gap. Let cool then lightly heat lower again and apply pressure. The housing will discolor a lot. Best penetrant ATF and mineral oil mix
 
faztbullet said:
I can count on 1 hand how many carriers I was not able to remove. 1st install some nuts on the all thread rod against carrier to help from pulling threads out. Heat housing around top of carrier till penetrant will flow between carrier edge and housing. Then heat housing at lower end of carrier till penetrant boils and enters gap. Let cool then lightly heat lower again and apply pressure. The housing will discolor a lot.
Click to expand...
Two torches going the way you outlined and still on there. Can’t tell if fluid is flowing thru the top causes it’s so hot and starts bubbling. I know about a minute after we stopped the case was 212 degrees. We cranked down on the puller and the stainless all thread has not broke unlike the mild steel. Heated again with pressure and flooded with atf until that started to pop and spatter like a volcano. Sitting with tension now. Also tapped around the case with a dead blow and pounded on puller shaft with a large ballpeen.
 
Hit it today with acetylene which got it hotter than the propane and got some wax to seep in but she still won’t budge. Trying to make the 5 lbs slide closer to 8 or 10 but can’t find anything with a hole the size of the puller which is 5/8.
 
I've never seen a carrier that stuck in almost 50 years of saltwater northeast Florida, are you absolutley sure that there is nothing else holding that carrier in place? Something else is going on.
 
Been back and forth with sei and based on the serial number they confirm only thing that holds it in is the wedge and the 2 clips which are all out. The also said it can’t be intentionally broken like I believe mecury carriers can be. Since it works in forward and reverse by turing ds ,so even if the gear was seized in the carrier, it would still come out
 
Rather than pressurizing with air, use oil in a grease gun. It won't propel parts like a cannon, as air might. Use flex hose with copper tubing and compression or flair fittings. Will develope several hundred psi easily. Good hydro Test method as well.
 
Well ----After putting it under 200 PSI pressure , you might not need to worry about rebuilding it.-----Seals will be gone.-----Casing might be stretched / expanded.
 
This is the bottom view that goes against the gears. Need to figure out how to break or remove material leaving the blue circled areas intact so I have something to pull on with the slide hammer.


1727178623984.png
 
What's so strange is the part you managed to extract is usually where they are stuck. Salt gets between the case and the carrier and seizes it in place. Mercs in the old days used to crack/spit the case in that area from salt expansion.
 
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