(Thorough Spark Test)
(J. Reeves)
This is assuming that there is absolutely no spark on any cylinder.
To test the ignition switch for shorts, remove all of the spark plugs, then disconnect the large RED electrical plug at the engine, then crank the engine, testing for spark by using a small jumper from the battery terminal of the starter solenoid to the small 3/8" nut connector on the solenoid which energizes it. If you now have spark, the problem is usually the ignition switch.
However, if you now have spark we want to make sure that the switch is indeed the problem and that there is no short in the instrument wiring harness between the engine's RED plug and the key switch. To test this, re-connect that large RED plug, then remove the Black/Yellow wire from the back of the switch and again test for spark. If you had spark on the previous test and now have no spark, a short exists in the wiring harness somewhere. BUT if you still have spark as per the previous test (disconnected RED plug), the ignition switch is indeed faulty.
If thru all of the above the spark does not exist at all, there is a possibility that a short exists in the engine's side of that RED plug. To test, re-connect everything that might still be disconnected during the above tests EXCEPT that RED plug, then remove the Black/Yellow wire from the powerpack connector. Now test for spark via the solenoid jump. If you had no spark before with the RED plug disconnected but do now simply by having that Black/Yellow wire disconnected from the powerpack, a short would exist in the engine's wiring harness. Should this type problem exist, cut the Black/Yellow wires before and after the RED plug connector, splice wires to make them longer, and bypass/jump over that RED plug.
If throughout all of the above you still have no spark, the usual problem is a powerpack failure.
The stator under the flywheel can be checked visually for a meltdown. Look closely at it. If there is any cracks and/or a sticky substance dripping down on the timer base and powerhead area, that would result in a AC voltage drop to the powerpack. Should this condition exist, replace the stator.
This condition, when it begins, may result in perfect spark when the engine is cold...BUT... after it warms up, then shut down to fish a bit or whatever and all that engine heat rises to the flywheel and stator area, that stator fails, resulting in weak, erratic, and eventually no spark! A stator in this meltdown condition requires replacing regardless of whatever reading one may get out of it.
You may check the resistance of the stator with an ohm meter between the Brown wire and the Brown/Yellow wire. Check for whatever the proper readings should be in your service manual. If you have no manual, your local library may have one.
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