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Shut down to limp mode during great run

M

MPCAMPERS

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Hi, my name is*Mike, and I am new to boating. We just got this used*blue wave with a 2000 honda 90hp out board. was out fishing haveing a good day. on the way back in motor was running great, then it*shut down to limp mode alarm went off.
*the person we got it from had just had it serviced new water pump asst. new*thirmostat. compression test.I have*checked what is in the*trubble shoot in the manuel one by one,oil good, oil pump working checked setting full*and running oil level*drops on stick, checked water intake*open, to pump water good,water at the prop is bathwater warm, checked fuel filter looks ok, did not find water.instaled new fuel*bulb.battery good.*unhooked the battery over night and let it reset seemed to run fine. put it in the water*at idle was ok.powered up*imediately sut down to*limp mode and alarm back.

*any*ideas would help before I have to take it to a shop


thank you****
 
Normally there is a green (for good oil pressure) and a red (for overheat) on the key switch panel or sometimes they are relocated elsewhere on the console.

With no lights, it is difficult to zero in on the problem unless you have a temperature gun and a way to measure the oil pressure.

If it is an oil pressure alert, the oil pressure switch may be clogged or defective.
You can remove the oil pressure switch (part #11) http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2000/BF90AY LRTA /CYLINDER BLOCK/parts.html and clean the end any debris off of the end that goes into the motor with a solvent (brake clean or similar cleaner). Poke a wire or very small screwdriver through the hole that it goes into to be sure that it is not plugged up. If it seems like it was pretty dirty, then try testing the engine again.

It also is possible that the impeller was not installed correctly ;there could be some debris plugging up the cooling passage; or simply the temperature sensor is bad.

With limited experience with an outboard, it might be best to have the shop look at it.

The only things I know that will put it in limp mode are low/high oil pressure, an overheat, wiring issue giving the CDI a false signal, or a faulty CDI.


Mike
 
I dont have the metric tool to remove the sensor so it will be going to the repair shop.and you are right about limited experience. I dont have any knowledge at all, I do need to learn.but thank you for putting it in a kind way:) ! I think I will be looking for help here in the future I hope I will find someone like you... with what you have told me I dont think it is anything to bad, LOL I hope!!!

thank you
mike
 
MPCAMPERS! Welcome to the forum!

Sorry to hear your having a rough "introduction" to boating. That tool for removing the sensor should be available at most any auto parts store. And, if you can't find one, you could check the OPS with a DVOM without removing it. That is if you have any basic electrical knowledge. Just keep asking questions and someone here will walk you through it.

Again, welcome and good luck with your boat.
 
I think we found out what it was. took the oil senser out and cleaned it with some carb clearner.re installed it hooked up the wire, then tryed to start the motor, oil started comeing out of the senser where the wire is connected.. dont know much about this sort of thing but I dont belive that is right. got one on order..!!!
 
Yes! You have definitely found a problem. Hopefully it is THE problem.

Please keep in mind though that these switches are usually damaged when being taken off or installed. That little wire terminal stud should not be forced or twisted when removing or installing the wire end. If it is, then it will probably leak or even become electrically disconnected inside the switch, rendering the switch useless.

Ideally, you should have a small nut screwed down and barely "snugged" against the top of the switch. Then, you would have the wire "eyelet" sitting on top of that nut and then another nut screwed down and firmly snugged against the wire eye. This arrangement allows you to use a small "tune up" wrench to hold the bottom nut while tightening the top one enough so that it will not vibrate loose. The wire is also removed in this manner so as not to risk having the stud rotate during disassembly.

We'll be standing by hoping to hear that the switch gets you back on the water and learning the more pleasant aspects of boating.

Good luck.
 
this one dont have a stud, there is a small screw with a washer go's in to the switch. it was very tight.yes I could have damaged it taking it apart. I dont think this is something that go's out offton, no one in the area has one, so I orderd one on boats.net they have to order one also, before shipping to me. so I am looking at week to 10 days before I will know if it was the problem. so now we what..?? but I would like to thank you for all your Help..!!
 
Don't forget to let us know how you make out. If it works, that's a good one for the "archives".
 
Findly got the oil switch today and got it installed. the motor seems run fine. will know tomorrow when I put it in the water and run it under load... cross your fingers. but I bet it run's fine!
 
Instaled the oil switch yesterday and tested the motor, seemed to run fine. So today I put it in the water and ran it under load, it ran great. it was the oil switch that went bad. took some time to find the problem.glad I did not have to spend a tun of money repairing it.

thank you for all your help
mike
 
Seaweed on the prop will cause motor to de-ccelerate (de-ACCelerate?). When I pick up marsh grass wrapped around the lower unit during duck hunting the motor shuts down until I clear the problem on my 2007 BF40A.
 
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