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Restart Engine after 10 years down time...

M

Macultra

New member
First off I am a new member. Was searching around for parts and stumbled onto this forum and have been reading posts most of the morning. Great info here...you obviously are an expert at this stuff. Here goes. I retired a few years ago and decided that I wanted to fix up the old boat. Unfortunately, the boat has been neglected for the past 10-12 years (kids grew up and didn't care about the boat anymore). The boat was uncovered the entire time and exposed to the elements. The upholstery is shot as is the flooring. Luckily I kept the engine cowling over the engine and I had taken the time to winterize it before shut down (plugs taken out of the block and H2O drained). I have gutted the boat and cleaned up the engine (externally). I know that I need to replace everything that is replaceable and started to compose a list (belts, filters, plugs, points, condenser, etc). I have also drained the oil and completely drained the fuel tank. I realize that the odds of me being able to fire this thing up without needing a major overhaul is unlikely. Since the remainder of the boat will be a major remake (and a work in progress), I didn't want to spend alot of money on the engine if it turns out to need a rebuild (I'd rather spend my retirement money on a smaller fishing boat...but if I can get it running, I'll use this boat). I wanted to do everything I could to prep the engine before I even turned the key. Hopefully the pistons aren't frozen or the rings rusted to the cylinders. I would definitely appreciate any help and advice you could give.
Thanks in advance...
 
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In my experience, if an engine was winterized properly (fogged), there's rarely an issue with seized pistons.... and even if it wasn't fogged, I've rarely seen any issues.
Just take your time - squirt lots of marvel mystery oil, or similar down the spark plug holes and give it a few days. Then try rolling the engine manually before engaging the starter.
 
Wow...thanks for the quick reply. I was thinking I needed to get some lubrication into the spark plug holes but wasn't sure if I should use WD-40, or 30wt. I didn't think about Marvel. You just brought me back to my high school and college days (40 years ago)...back then we used Marvel for EVERYTHING! I don't want to step on anyone's toes here...can I get those parts here? I saw where the filters (fuel and oil) have Fram cross numbers but if it fires up I am going to want to change belts and hoses too!. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks again
 
The engine is a 1989 4.3 cobra (262) V6 (sn: 1134726). Vertical drive model: 985685 s/n: T0202525. Boat is a Reinell 173E. The spark plugs were in the entire time. They were rusty on the outside but clean on the inside. The plugs I was referring to are the 4 water drain plugs on the engine block (2 on each side). These were out for the ten years (trying to avoid a freezing block in the winter). I appreciate you folks helping me out...so far I'm encouraged. Thanks again.
 
Remove the drive. You need a new impeller anyway. Drain the oil in the engine, try to turn the engine by hand. If it turns your good. If it doesn't i would put the spark plugs back in and fill it to the brim with kero or diesel and let it sit for a week or 2. And then try to turn it. Leave the battery out of the boat if you fill it with kero or diesel.

New points,condensor, rebuild the carb. I would also pull the elbow, every boat i had to start after sitting for more then 5 years had the elbow rusted closed.

Post back !
 
OK, thanks. Sounds like I'll have a new hobby for the next few months. This will take me awhile but I will post back. I'm sure I will have more questions as I go along. Thanks again.
 
Two suggestions:

Don't be tempted to use the front crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt to turn the engine over. The torque value on this bolt is 60 ft lb, and if you were to exceed this, you'll risk breaking this bolt off.
Instead, and if you must, use some sort of strap wrench around the balancer and/or pulley.
Or.... rotate in the oposite direction using the bolt. Worse case..... the bolt loosens up.


As for disabling the ignition while cranking, rather than pulling the coil wire, you'll want to disable the power to the ignition coil.
Otherwise there's no path for the high voltage to discharge.


Good luck on this. Hopefully it will free up and turn over for you.

.
 
OK...I'm buying the parts I need today. I just pulled the oil dipstick and noticed lots of gritty rust all the way down the stick. There is oil in the crankcase, looks a little thin, no froth or white. Is there a way (or should I) flush the pan out with kerosene, diesel, or something? Or just let the filter do it? I know I'm being a pain, but I just want to make sure I do everything right before I turn anything. Thanks
 
Is this a sterndrive or outboard?Sounds like a sterndrive from the way your explaining.
To fire that engine up again after all those yrs.You will need to do many things for this to happen.
Don't even try to turn the bottom crank.May bust a piston ring or other.
First,thing is pulling the spark plugs out.Will they even come out after all those yrs?
Pull all the plugs out.
Pull Drain plug drain the engine oil.Replace plug.Pure in new oil.Don't matter what type 30/40 oil.Because,you'll be draining it again before it's done.
Dump transmission fuild down each cylinder.
Pull off the valve covers.Dump transmission fuild over the rocker arms
Let the engine seat for a day or two soaking in trainsmission fluid.
After a few days of seating,
Try to turn the crank one way.Then the other way.But ,not all the way around.If it turns both ways.Stop and add more transmission fluid to the cylinders.Then try turning the crank all the way around both directions.Keep doing this while adding more transmission fluid.The transmission fuild act's like a penetrating oil.The reason for doing this is to avoid breaking a piston ring.By this time that engine should be turning freely & smooth.
Drain the oil pan again.reinstall oil plug.Pure 2 qt. of oil over rocker arms both heads.Pure motor oil down each cylinder.Install new oil.Turn the crank over many times.Easier with a inpact.
Drain the motor oil for the last time.Reintall with good oil.Replace valver covers with new gasgets.Install new spark plugs.
Next,
It's best to simply install a new fuel pump if it's a manual fuel pump or even 12 volt.
Located a good,clean outboard fuel tank buy one or ask a friend for one.Because,you will surely need it.As I'm sure that fuel tank of yours is full of everything as well as tarnished gas.
Pull off the carb.Clean out the float bowl,Check for bad float.Clean or replace niddle valve & seat.Replace fuel filter in carb,Reinstall carb.
Attach/connect your carb to this outboard fuel tank.
Next,
Remove the distributor cap.Lightly clean the inside spark probes.Don't touch the rotor button.
Spray some penetrating oil inside the yoke of the starter if possable.

Your ready to fire this thing up.I'm sure your saying alot of oil for this task.Well,must be done to avoid damage.
Fire it up?
If the carb pops,catches on fire.Means your valves are stuck or sticking.Use brake fluid to unstick sticky valves.
While it's running pure little brake fluid at a time down the carb while giving it gas to keep the engine running.The engine will try to stall.And will blow white smoke.That's normal.Repeat this step a few times to help unstick the sticky valves.You'll know when a valve frees.It will run smoother.As stop messing.
For a retirery,Your sure getting a task rebuilding this boat.After seating all these yrs.You better just buya new boat save your time.
Best,
 
((Is there a way (or should I) flush the pan out with kerosene, diesel, or something?))

In reply,No.Never.You never flush a engine out.I have a GMC V8 Truck with over 300,000 miles on it.Still running sweat today.Why?Because,I never flushed the engine.Engine is clean today as well.All depends on the oil type you use.Oil is the heart of any engine.
You have a engine that has never ran in over 10 yrs or more.If you flush that engine you will have a dry start.Will cause you to spin a main bearing or rist pin...Do what I said to do?Go buy 2 cases of engine oil.If you want to save that engine?Requires money & oil.You just stated you have rust on your oil stick.Ooo,boy.Mr.?I wouldn't attempt to try to turn that engine over.Soak that engine with transmission fluid for a good 3 days.Before even trying to turn that crank.If you try starting it up?You will suck that rust into the oil pump screen.Stop buying parts.You don't need parts.You need oil & time on your hands.Takes time.The engine sure seat thru time.You say"There is oil in the crankcase:.No,you have rust not oil.One scratch on that main crank will spun a main bearing.10 yrs of seating is a mighty long time.Using transmission fuild as I stated before.Is flushing the right way of things.Kerosene, diesel fuel will do more then flush.Will clean everything.And I mean "everything" will cause,a dry start.
 
A engine that hasn't been turned over in over 10 yrs."1986 10 yrs".

Kero or diesel will cause,a dry start.Dry start will cause,a spun bearing or rist pin.
Transmission fluid is not only a oil.But, acts as a penetrating oil.More safer,thinker then,kero or diesel fuel.
This man just said he has rust in the oil.Will require many oil changing prior of starting
 
Macultra, why don't you post some photos of this rust, so that we can see just what you're up against before we begin making judgement calls here?
I can imagine that a fair amount of moisture would necessary to cause all of this alleged and alarming rust that we don't yet know the extent of.
Photos may help.

I certainly agree with not flushing it. I'd begin with just plain engine oil and a fresh filter.
Any small debris pulled in by the oil pump, must first pass through the oil filter prior to the oil reaching any oil galleys and/or crank/rod journals and/or valve train.

FYI: many of us have torn down old engines that have been sitting for many years. Short of water intrusion, more often than not we'll see that an oil film still reamains at/in the bearing surfaces simply by nature of the oil bond between these very tight tolerance surfaces.

If she is locked up, she's locked due to some rust at the piston rings against the cylinder walls.
And believe me, it does not require much X's 6 to lock one up.
 
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I have a little different opinion, but I am sure it won't be very popular.
I would donate the boat. It is too far gone and it isn't like it's a Bertram or Chris Craft or something super rare or super valuable. The thing is that you just don't know whether that engine will blow up on you somewhere out there. You could find it conking out at a most inopportune time, like when a storm is approaching. Is it really worth it to you to fool with? Get rid of this, find yourself the smaller boat you really want, and go have fun.
 
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