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removing 3 ram style tilt trim unit

C

Chick

Regular Contributor
How do you remove the top pin in the tilt ram? It looks like you use a socket type screw driver bit? Does it just unscrew? Thanks!
 
OK, I went out and looked. There is an empty hole in the backside of the end of the ram, but it feels like there may be the end of the screw in the opposite side. Does the screw extend all the way across?
 
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The slot is so you can turn the pivot pin when installing it to align the holes in the bushing and pivot pin to install the trilobe pin. If the pin is broken off, use a brass drift and a big hammer and drive the pivot pin out- it's not threaded in. Breaking off the remainder of the trilobe pin by driving out the pivot pin won't hurt anything.
 
bilge rat jim said:
The slot is so you can turn the pivot pin when installing it to align the holes in the bushing and pivot pin to install the trilobe pin. If the pin is broken off, use a brass drift and a big hammer and drive the pivot pin out- it's not threaded in. Breaking off the remainder of the trilobe pin by driving out the pivot pin won't hurt anything.
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I got a small mirror, so I could look at the front side of the ram, and I can see a boss on the socket the pivot pin goes through, and the trilobe pin (screw) is extending to the outside of the socket. So, I have the part left without the head on the back side, and the end of the pin extending through the front side. If I had enough room, I would drill the side of the head and use an ease out. Not enough room. Do you think the trilobe pin will shear off on both sides without doing further damage?
 
I went to another parts supplier, and found a different picture, that shows a different style design pin. It looks like it just drives in, and is not threaded. I am not sure what is the correct pin, but I think as it was a screw, they would say screw instead of a trilobe pin. Here is the link:

http://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/536.cfm
 
If you have a "design 1" PT unit, it has a screw, rather than a trilobe pin, as does "design 2" PT units. Either way, it doesn't matter- the broken pin or screw is not removable until you remove the pivot pin, so get your brass drift and hammer, and remove the pivot pin. It will not damage the Trim bushing or the bracket, and once you have the trim unit out, it's easy to remove the remainder of the trilobe pin/screw with a pin punch.
 
I have the later model unit, with the 2 trim rams and 1 tilt ram in the center. I managed to move the motor in a position that I could get a small pin punch in there and drive from the front end. I have it extended almost 1/2" in the back, but the punch is not square and is now in a bind, not allowing me to drive it any further.

When I put this unit back on, there will be a stainless steel cotter pin in this spot. I am not dealing with this again. How did this design ever leave paper?
 
The design is fine- Mercury has been using it longer than you've probably been alive, and if it was problematic, I'm sure it would have changed. The problem lies with DIYers who either don't have a service manual, or can't be bothered to follow simple directions, and end up snapping the trilobe pin or screw head off when installing it.
I've probably removed hundreds of trim units, and my method of a brass drift and a hammer to break the remainder of the trilobe pin/screw has always worked. You might try using side-cutters to grip the screw and pry the remainder of the screw out- if that fails, dont be afraid of a little "nisi vim". Sometimes, brute force can be your best friend.:)
 
bilge rat jim said:
The design is fine- Mercury has been using it longer than you've probably been alive,

I doubt they have been using it for 58 years. I have worked on so many hydraulic systems, that it is unreal, and I have never seen a pin, that you had to drive in and shear off. Cotter pins is the norm. Regardless of that, I drove it out and sheared it off. Thanks for your help.
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The service manual only says remove pin. It does not go into detail as to how to accomplish this. It appears to use a screwdriver and pliers. And, a simple cotter pin in this location would be an improvement.
 
Been doing this for 30+ years and never had to shear one to get it out. The old style pin you just trim it full up and usa a rollpin punch a couple taps and its out. The newer style pin looks like a nail and an can be removed with a cats paw to get it started and and pry out.
 
If you tilt this motor full up, you cannot get to the front hole to drive it out, and as it is bigger at the head, you cannot drive it through from the back, As it was, for some unknown reason, the head was broken off. A stainless steel cotter pin, would be so much simpler.
 
faztbullet said:
Been doing this for 30+ years and never had to shear one to get it out. The old style pin you just trim it full up and usa a rollpin punch a couple taps and its out. The newer style pin looks like a nail and an can be removed with a cats paw to get it started and and pry out.
Click to expand...

Never thought of a cats paw- helluva good idea- I've always used a pair of side-cutters and pried the li'l bugger out. Broken ones, the problem has been that most folks don't seem to know the difference between "seating" the trilobe pin and driving it home like they where nailing down a dock plank:D.
 
If a cat's paw is the same thing as a crow's foot, that is what came to mind to use, when I first found the picture of it. But, the head was gone. As far as a couple of taps, it took more than that to get it driven out, as far as I could. I used a pin punch. I would be afraid of damaging my roll pin punches, by driving a solid pin out.
 
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