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Regulator/Rectifier

lewain

New member
I have a 1997 115 Oaceanpro Model#E115SXEUC. My tach works up to about 1400 rpm then quits. It is an OMC with warning lights that seem to work.
With motor at idle 1200 rpm, I am getting 12.75 volts at battery. measured with digital fluke meter. I was thinking that I had a bad Regulator/Rectifier.
But before I purchased a new one thought I would see what you guys thought.
 
Your best bet is to get a DVA adaptor and test the stator and regulator properly. The battery must be fully charged and in good condition. The cost of parts demands a proper diagnostic CDI has the proper procedures. One bad component can destroy the other two pretty fast 12.75 volts is pretty clos to battery voltage fully charged and unacceptable for voltage when engine is running.
 
(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

NOTE: For the later models that DO NOT incorporate a wiring terminal strip, splicing into the "Yellow Wire" mentioned will be necessary.


Normally the Gray wire leading from the tachometer is attached at the terminal strip to another Gray wire which leads from the water cooled voltage regulator/rectifier...... remove the gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.
 
I have a 89 Johnson GT200 (J200STLCEB). Been fighting a charging issue for a long time. Been through at least 3 CDI reg/rectifiers. Each worked for about 4 months. I have a newish stator, CDI replaced FEB/2015. Could the tachometer be causing this failure?
 
When I bought the stator I also replaced the thermostats. I also ran the test of the engine temperature switches in the pot in the kitchen with oil per the manual and everything passed. I have also made a sight glass for the regulator install point to verify water is getting to the top and it is. To this day I have never seen the temperature gauge get above 140ish.

Yes i I have a volt meter on the dash. I monitor it more than I watch my fish finder... Well that is before I disconnected the yellow stator wires...
 
... Well that is before I disconnected the yellow stator wires...
Running the engine with stator wires disconnected will cause stator to overheat and possibly short plus heat can soften glue on magnets.
 
The CDI tech said if your on the lake and your voltage pegs out to disconnect the yellow stator wires. I have secured them away from one another and insulated the terminal ends. I've been running like this for over 6 months and the stator appears just fine. Recently put a DVA measurement across the wires and I'm getting like 24v or so. No shorts to ground either.
 
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Mitiy, your helpful advise is appreciated, but we can't read a word your typing. You'll have to convert it to English for us to read. Sorry
 
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