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Question on coils, 1976 35 HP Evinrude

J

Joe Friday

New member
I am an owner of a pontoon boat once again, after about a 15 year hiatus. The boat I just bought is a fixer, has a 1976 Evinrude 35 HP, model 35653S. I am in the process of getting the motor checked out and ready to try to start it. I am thinking it has been about two years since it was last used, as that is the last year it has tax stamps. It definitely was not put away properly, as it reeks of bad gas.

My question - While attempting to check out the ignition system, both of the high voltage leads fell out of the coils. The last boat I owned had a 83 Johnson 35 HP that I did some extensive work on, so I have a rather hazy recollection of the basics of the engine, but don't remember the coil HV leads falling out, especially not this easily. I did have spark on both coils prior to the leads falling out.

Is this normal, or do I need to add to coils to the list of parts I will be ordering? I do have a shop manual for the engine coming, but it has not arrived yet. I need to sort out some issues with missing parts off the throttle linkage as well.

Thanks!
 
I would check compression first off before buying any parts. If it has good compression everything else is easy enough to tackle. Drain the gearbox and look for water or metal fragments. The carb probably needs rebuilt and the impeller replaced at the very least. You can start it with the gearbox removed for short spurts for troubleshooting. Take your time now for a nice dependable power source.
 
Thanks for the responses....I have not taken a coil loose yet to look, but will do so this weekend. I had thought about doing the compression check, and stopped at Harbor Freight yesterday looking for a tester, but they were out of stock. Will definitely do so prior to ordering any other parts.

Thanks again!
 
(Replacing Regular Spark Plug Wires)
(J. Reeves)


If you also need the spark plug boots and the spring terminals that connect to the spark plugs, purchase them from your local dealership (OMC Part #581027). This includes one boot and one spring connector. Price is about $3.25ea.


Purchase whatever amount of spark plug wire you need. Be sure to purchase the kind that has a steel (or copper) twisted wire leading through the center of it....... not the carbon type plug wire that many automobiles now use.


Using your old plug wire, cut the new wire to a length about 3/4" to 1" longer. If you have no old plug wire, just make sure that the wire is longer than you'll need as you can trim the other end later.


The rubber boot, spark plug end.... With the wire cut to the length required, trim back 1/4" insulation again but do not solder tint the wires. Simply fan out the wires and fold them back against the insulation, cutting the excess off as explained above. Holding the spring wire terminal, estimate where the prong should be inserted so that the spring will be flush against the exposed wire. Hold the spring terminal away from the wires end (sideways) and insert the prong into the insulation and into the center wire, then swing the spring terminal in front of the exposed wire portion (makes a tight fit for continuity purposes). Spraying the inner portion of the boot where the wire will insert with a small amount of WD40 makes the installation of the wire a easy project.


Now, the other end that slides into the magneto coil... Look into the awaiting hole of the coil and you will see a somewhat threaded tapered prong. Double check to make sure that the wire is cut to the length required (better slightly longer than shorter), trim back 1/4" insulation again but do not solder tint the wires. Simply fan out the wires and fold them back against the insulation, cutting the excess off as explained above, then simply slide the wire into the coil so that the inner wire core of the wire is impaled by the tapered prong within the coil. That's it.... you're done.
 
These wires are epoxyed into coil and really not repairable IMO....

coil.jpg
 
faztbullet said:
These wires are epoxyed into coil and really not repairable IMO.
Click to expand...

Faztbullet.... Look closer, the wire simply unscrews as I mentioned above. Many of these light green coils have different part numbers, the reason being "only" that the spark plug wire is longer/shorter.

What appears to be epoxy (if it exists) is a lubricant to help slide the wire past a sealing "O" Ring at the entrance of the plug wire hole.
 
The one's I see that the wire falls out of, I find the pin that slips into center conductor of wire is eroded or burnt off. I dont try to fix em...
 
Thanks for all of the discussion on this topic! It looks like I have bigger problems though. I picked up a Harbor Freight compression tester this afternoon and checked compression...about 60PSI on the gauge on the top cylinder. I shot some 2-cycle oil in, waited about 5 minutes and checked it again. This time it went up to 80PSI. The bottom cylinder, I did the oil treatment to up front...70PSI on this cylinder.

Obviously, the compression gauge could be inaccurate, but am concerned about a 10PSI difference between the cylinders.

This motor needs several other parts to get it running (probably about $300) I have not investigated the lower unit at all yet. On a motor this age (1976), would I be better off cutting my losses and finding something newer already running, or spending the money and rebuilding what I have?

Thanks again!
 
Pull the head and look at the cylinder walls for scoring. Could be a head gasket leaking between cylinders. Always check the compression three times 1-2 1-2 1-2 and write down the numbers and take the high number for each cylinder. thwe law of averages will give you the most accurate results and account for possible mistests. Are you using a fully charges battery and both plugs removed?
 
Go to forum home and click on your engine manufacturer the click start new thread and give as much info as possible model, serial year issue and history.
 
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