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Procedure for pulling fault codes on BF 200 & BF 225

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chawk_man

Silver Medal Contributor
I've sent this procedure out many times to BF 200 and BF 225 owners. Just thought I would post it so more folks have direct access.

Getting Fault Codes from a Honda BF 200 or BF 225


This procedure works ONLY with engines that are equipped with the four-light key switch – green = oil pressure; red = coolant temperature; red = alternator output; red = malfunction indicator light (MIL.)

Take off the engine cover and then the black plastic cover over the electronics on the front of the engine. There you will see a red four-pronged female plug. Remove the plug from its holder by pressing down on the clip and pulling it to your right as you are facing it. Use a paper clip to shunt the lime green/white wire to the black wire – that is, the two wires that are closest to the engine when the red service connector is correctly set in its holder. If in doubt, invest in a SCS service connector, which you can order online - part number 070PZ-ZY30100.

Once connected, turn on the key switch and observe the number of blinks on the check engine (MIL) light. The blinks will repeat until you turn off the key.

If the MIL comes on, then stays on, there are no codes in the EPROM. This is contrary to what it implies in the Helm Shop Manual (Page 5-14.)

If the MIL starts blinking, then count the blinks, which will indicate the fault code. You may get long blinks and short blinks. For example, two long blinks, followed by five short blinks, would be a fault code 25. The blink sequence will repeat itself until you turn the key off. If there is more than one fault, you will get multiple fault codes. For example, three short blinks, followed by two long blinks and five short blinks would be fault codes 3 and 25.

If you get only one blink, that repeats about every three seconds, that is a faulty HO2 sensor. If a faulty O2 sensor is indicated, first check the wiring and connector. A loose or corroded connection can set off that alarm. Also, a misfiring spark plug or failing coil can generate that fault code. Furthermore, the Honda diagnostic procedure implies that low fuel pressure can also trigger that code.

I have the fault codes in a PDF file which I scanned out of the Helm Shop Manual. I can't seem to upload it on this forum, so send an e-mail to me at [email protected] and I will return e-mail the fault codes.

Clearing Fault Codes (From Honda Dude)

Essentially, to clear the codes, you operate the kill switch 5 times with the shunt (shorting device, or paper clip) in place and within 20 seconds of the key switch being turned on.

I recommend grabbing the safety lanyard very close to the switch that it is attached to so you can pull it to off and push it to on without losing the lanyard.
• Connect the shunting device (technical term for paper clip.)
• Turn on the key switch.
• Pull the safety switch to off, then push to on, then pull to off, then push to on, then pull to off, then push to on, then pull to off, then push to on, then pull to off. That should be five times off and on and off within 20 seconds from when you turn the key switch to on. When you get to the fifth time off...you should hear one or two beeps. The codes are clear. If you did not hear the beeps, try again.
• Turn the key switch off

Remove the shunting device and run the engine. Then check for codes again. If all is clear, you may just have had a onetime occurrence. If you do have codes, you will just have to troubleshoot depending on the code number that you get.
 
Thanks
Question? What if when you remove the key and the light are still blinking codes and it will not stop unless you turn the battery switch off..
 
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That's a new one on me. My first inclination would be to suspect the key switch. Does it operate normally? That is, when you turn it on do all four lights come on briefly and you get two beeps from the alarm? Then when you turn it over to the start position do the engines crank?
 
No it does not operate normally when you turn the key off the alt light stays on with the jumper out if I put the jumper in the mil will continue to flash codes with the key off , yes it will start and operate normally and it will shut the engine down but here again the alt stays on like the key is in the light position and not in the off position does that make since. I check the switch per the manual continuity when off between black and black red when on between b/wi and b/y and then the start position b/w b/r b/y I even checked to make sure that each leg is ground or powered properly
its almost like it is turned off in gear. I checked the neutral switch on the motor and it is functioning properly Don't know which way to go next but I do know the only way to shut the motor complete down is to turn battery switch off there is no four light that come on briefly and the buzzer will not sound they do all work I have check each one !!!!!
 
I don't understand what you are trying to say: "there is no four light that come on briefly and the buzzer will not sound they do all work I have check each one"


When you turn the key on (with no jumper installed in the service connector) do the four lights on the key switch flash on and then you hear two beeps on the alarm?

With the key on, but engines not started, the red alternator light should stay on and all other lights should go off. Once the engine is started, the green oil pressure light should go on and the other three (red) lights should be off. Is that is what is happening?

If the red alternator light stays on once the engine is running, then you likely have a blown power fuse or a bad alternator.
 
If the red alternator light stays on once the engine is running, then you likely have a blown power fuse or a bad alternator. No


With the key on, but engines not started, the red alternator light should stay on and all other lights should go off. Once the engine is started, the green oil pressure light should go on and the other three (red) lights should be off. Is that is what is happening?
Yes but when I turn the key switch to the off postion the atl light still stays on !!!!

When you turn the key on (with no jumper installed in the service connector) do the four lights on the key switch flash on and then you hear two beeps on the alarm?*
No
 
key off light on
 

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That sounds to me like one of two possibilities. 1. You have a short somewhere in your wiring harness or key switch, or 2 you have a bad ECU. I most suspect the first.

First pull off all three connectors to the ECU and check for corrosion and missing pins. Clean it up as needed. Next, pull out your key switch assembly and look for any loose, corroded, or broken wires and clean up any corroded connectors. Each lead from the key switch plugs into a wire from the wiring harness coming from the engine. Check all of those for corrosion and missing pins. Check allof your grounds.

If all of that doesn't fix the problem you should haul your boat off to a dealer and have them connect the HDS (Honda Diagnostic Syatem) computer and check the ECU and wiring harness.
 
Old thread but important one - thanks to chawk_man for helping me out and getting my codes cleared and figured out on my 250
 
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