Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Ocean Pro 200 problems

O

OP200

New member
I've got a 1993 Ocean Pro 200, with a couple of carb related issues:
*
#1 when the engine is tilted up, oil appears to be leaking from the carbs and it seems to be burning more oil (excessive smoking from the exhaust) than usual.* What could be causing this and how do I correct it?
#2 to keep the engine running at idle, I need to keep the choke on.* If I release the choke, it stalls within a few seconds.
#3 when*I can keep the engine running and shift into gear (even after it's at temperature) it stalls as I add power.
*
Some of these problems I may have created.* To reduce the amount of excess oil in the mix I tried adjusting the lean/rich mixture.* I believe I got them all back into their original positions, but need a way to check that.* Can anyone tell me how to adjust them to their proper setting (BTW, my tach doesn't work)?
*
The engine has very low hours and sat idle through last year.
 
Actually, ran out of gas and have added new fuel over the weekend and it is still smoking after about 20 minutes of run time. I still need to replace the fuel filter though. Any ideas about it pucking oil through the carbs? I mopped up about 1/2 cup+ of oil from the breather cover after I removed it.
 
You got alot of things here...first is...the 1993 200 did not have adjustable idle mixture screws. You indicate that yours does.
So, you will eventually have to deal with idle mix settings. for now, just set them at 5 turns out. That setting will not keep it from idling...but if it does lean sneeze..just open all screws out another turn (6). You can fine tune it later after all the other problema are fixed.

Secondly, do you have the original air box on it? If so, you may have an incompatible air box with the carbs you now have.

Third, oil in the air box...is this only after tilting up or just after running a while and then tilting up? The reason I ask this is that a bad reed will cause excessive gas spitback into the air box, filling it up with oil as the gas evaporates. Remove the air box, start the engine, and watch the front of the carbs for gas spitting out. You can put your hand in front of the carbs to check, as well as a piece of paper. But anyway, if it is blowing back due to a bad reed, it is VERY obvious. It will cause very poor idle, and missing upon acceleration

Fourth...when was the last carb overhaul? If you do it, pay special attention to the brass tube that sticks down into the bowl. That must be absolutely clean. These tubes might be the cause of your #2 complaint. Be sure you don't crush the spaghetti gasket between carb body and throttle plate. The throttle plates should ideally be removed and thoroughly cleaned also.

Now, all this work will require a proper link and sync when done.

I said you had alot going on...this will turn out to be a big job. It will not be just ONE simple thing that fixes it. My opinion.
 
daselbee, thanks for the info. I realize I didn't mention that the engine was running mostly well before I ran out of gas, it was spewing what I think is more than usual blue smoke out of the exhaust. Yes I agree, I don't believe there is an idle mixture adjustment, my uneducated guess is, that the mixture adjustment screw on each carb is for the full range of revs.

I believe, I have the original air box and the carbs are not spitting fuel at all. It's almost as if the oil pump is pushing too much oil into the carbs. Do you know if the oil gets injected at the carb or does it mix before the fuel hits the carb?

Short of hauling the boat and doing a major rebuild of the carbs, which would mostly shoot the season, I just want to get it running well enough to use and do the rebuild after the season. Any thoughts?
 
OP200 said:
daselbee, thanks for the info. I realize I didn't mention that the engine was running mostly well before I ran out of gas, it was spewing what I think is more than usual blue smoke out of the exhaust. Yes I agree, I don't believe there is an idle mixture adjustment, my uneducated guess is, that the mixture adjustment screw on each carb is for the full range of revs.
Click to expand...

Nope...IF you have adjustment screws, then someone has put newer (1996) model carbs on it. Those mixture screws are strictly for idle mixture adjustment. Your carbs from factory should have two air bleed jets, and then of course the HS jet in the bowl.

OP200 said:
I believe, I have the original air box and the carbs are not spitting fuel at all. It's almost as if the oil pump is pushing too much oil into the carbs. Do you know if the oil gets injected at the carb or does it mix before the fuel hits the carb?
Click to expand...

Original air box will have a bunch of bolts around the perimeter. The newer air box will simply have two thumbscrews thru the center mid and bottom of the air box body. Oil is pumped into the fuel (mixed) at the OMS pump, and fully oiled fuel is delivered to the carbs.

OP200 said:
Short of hauling the boat and doing a major rebuild of the carbs, which would mostly shoot the season, I just want to get it running well enough to use and do the rebuild after the season. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Where are you located? If close to Mims, FL, maybe we could get you up and running quickly.

Do the always suggested Compression and spark test if you can. That will eliminate those two systems. How mech inclined are you? These repairs are not real difficult and with some experienced help....might get her going.
 
Better post your complete model number. There are differences in the carbs depending on the suffix.

You must have the "F" model suffix. That would explain the idle screw mystery. (Mystery to me anyway).
 
Original air box will have a bunch of bolts around the perimeter. The newer air box will simply have two thumbscrews thru the center mid and bottom of the air box body. Oil is pumped into the fuel (mixed) at the OMS pump, and fully oiled fuel is delivered to the carbs.

I've got an original airbox, multi-bolts.



Where are you located? If close to Mims, FL, maybe we could get you up and running quickly.

Thanks for the offer, but I'm about 1500 miles north near Boston, MA.

Do the always suggested Compression and spark test if you can. That will eliminate those two systems. How mech inclined are you? These repairs are not real difficult and with some experienced help....might get her going.[/QUOTE]

I went to a local shop that recommended I rebuild the fuel pump, which I did yesterday. That has improved the smoking and fuel/oil mix issue. The engine runs great now until it gets to operating temp then it'll run for a about 20 seconds then stall. My tach works sporadically and it appears that the idle is low. Do you know what is the recommended RPM at idle is and how do you adjust the idle?

Thanks for all your help so far.

BTW, here's what I've done: replaced all spark plugs, replaced the fuel filter, rebuilt the fuel pump, all new gas in the tank with E-Zorb added.
 
Back
Top