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bumper1990

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OK guys here's my situation I bought a 68 Johnson 40hp seahorse 2years ago it runs like brand new looks brand new and worked very well for me the first year due to lack of storage though I had to keep it outside with a tarp over it. It worked fine when parked. Went to start it this past summer and it wouldn't turnover so I checked the starter that was working fine so after some turning on the flywheel with a wrench and turning the prop by hand I got it freed up and it cranked right over and fired up put it in gear (automatic) and prop spun put it in neutral and it stopped no problem but I noticed a tiny crack in the lower gearcase....no oil in the lower unit so I put 75-90in (I was told to run that) felt confident and took it on the river went about 300yards up stream no problem then just lost movement the motor just screamed the prop still spun just under load it won't move so I coasted it 8miles back down stream (missed the launch pad cuzz it was high water and I had no power) and took it home called a few boat shops one said to run straight 90weight in it and another said I had to use regular Johnson evinrude blend oil because of the automatic shift and clutches did not try either yet got busy and if that's not the problem I know I'm gonna have another nice float ahead of me now from what I've gathered it could be a spun prop but that doesn't make sense cuzz of the lower unit being stuck and I thought it was a dog clutch in the lower unit so idk how that would do it any suggestion I'm all ears and need help
 
The gearcase needs to come apart for inspection and repair.-----There is no other way around this issue !-------------The electric shift does not use a " clutch dog " in its design.
 
Yes you could see where the oil leaked to would a busted gearcase still let it go into gear and move though? Not doubting anyone this is just a learning experience for me and would like to learn as much as I can going into the project I've done alot of mechanic work but never on a boat motor. If it is the gearcase wouldn't I be better off getting a used one on eBay there about 30$ then rebuilding mine? And I can take the gearcase off without taking apart the whole lower unit right?thanks guys
 
Sounds like something broke here when running with rusted parts ( no oil ) in it , likely the driveshaft snapped here.--------_Depends on what you mean by the term " busted gearcase " here.--------------No reason why a crack prevents it from going into gear at all.----------No oil in it and it still shifts.------- Wrong oil in it and it still shifts.----------Full of water and it still shifts.---------The used gearcase from Flea-Bay is the best option here.--------Just fill with the proper oil.-----Proper oil is outboard TYPE-C oil or now called PREMIUM BLEND by BRP products.
 
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Im unfamiliar with the electric shift design - but that really doesnt matter here. Youve got a crack in your gearcase and are losing all your oil. Sounds like from the initial post that the gearcase had water in it(somehow) froze and cracked - lost all its oil over the winter, and remaining moisture caused it to corrode and sieze up - you temporarily freed it up by the flywheel/propeller. Put it in the water and it ran a while till the oil was gone again and/or mixed with water to the point where it caused shifting problems.
What I would be asking the experts on here is: is the crack repairable? (After posting a picture or two) And finding what damage has been done from running with improper lubrication? (Only you will be able to tell that when you pull it all apart)
 
Yea that's makes sense guys so what should I be looking for when I take the gear box off? I know the crack was right at the top of the fin on the gearcase (probably from a rock) are the chances that the whole lower unit is toast? I don't mind spending the dough for the gearcase but the whole lower unit could get pricey. I might be missing something but if say I just got water in the gearcase wouldn't it just cease up? Because my pap and I kept it in gear just at the line where it wouldn't slip and had to use that and the trolling motor to try and get it home like I said we couldn't make headway up stream but we used them to keep the boat straight so I'd say a good hour it went fine probably 1/8 throttle and under like I said I'm not doubting or arguing with anyone just want to be somewhat certain before I throw parts at it and being I'm not familiar with boat motors I'm more curious and what holds the gearcase fast go the lower unit?
 
racerone said:
Sounds like something broke here when running with rusted parts ( no oil ) in it , likely the driveshaft snapped here.--------_Depends on what you mean by the term " busted gearcase " here.--------------No reason why a crack prevents it from going into gear at all.----------No oil in it and it still shifts.------- Wrong oil in it and it still shifts.----------Full of water and it still shifts.---------The used gearcase from Flea-Bay is the best option here.--------Just fill with the proper oil.-----Proper oil is outboard TYPE-C oil or now called PREMIUM BLEND by BRP products.
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OK will do what's brp?
 
I liked it better when it was OMC. They had a better parts inventory. You didn't see so many NLA's. JMO.
 
Due to the complexity of the gearcase unit, the obscene cost of the parts if you can find them, it would be better if you could find a guaranteed used lower unit rather than to attempt repairs... OR... chaulk the problem up to a loss and purchase a later more depenable engine.
 
bumper1990 said:
Yea that's makes sense guys so what should I be looking for when I take the gear box off? I know the crack was right at the top of the fin on the gearcase (probably from a rock) are the chances that the whole lower unit is toast? I don't mind spending the dough for the gearcase but the whole lower unit could get pricey. I might be missing something but if say I just got water in the gearcase wouldn't it just cease up? Because my pap and I kept it in gear just at the line where it wouldn't slip and had to use that and the trolling motor to try and get it home like I said we couldn't make headway up stream but we used them to keep the boat straight so I'd say a good hour it went fine probably 1/8 throttle and under like I said I'm not doubting or arguing with anyone just want to be somewhat certain before I throw parts at it and being I'm not familiar with boat motors I'm more curious and what holds the gearcase fast go the lower unit?
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Sound like you are contemplating replacing only the lower (bullet) section. Not a good idea. There are some serious parts above that level. Besides, you have to find out for sure why it quit driving. You may have more than one problem. Anybody consider the electrical system? Hey, it could be as simple as a sheared drive pin. Gotta take the time to do some inspection before spending your money.
 
Well, I consider the electric shift units to be quite simple.-------Electramatic or hydro-electric.---------Just recieved a 71 50 hp unit from 2 hrs away for repairs.----------Owner was happy to find someone who is not baffled by them.
 
My take on things like this....just rip into it..Its already toast right? Whats the worst thats gonna happen-you mess it up? Thats already been done... It just nuts and bolts man...take your time...keep everything layed out neatly and organized. You may find a simple fault thats easily fixed - put it all back together in the new $30 gearcase and run it. If it works your in business...if not youre only out $30 and some time. Either way youll definitely gain knowledge.

Edit: I shouldnt say Its already toast...you dont know that for sure...but it is in in-operable condition the way it is and the only way to find out how bad it is is to just roll your sleeves up and see for yourself.
 
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