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New to me Lund and B100 Maintenance

N

nlife

New member
Hi all,

I just joined the forum after picking up a new to me 14' Lund. I also picked up my brothers B100-1000179 10hp motor. He purchased it used some time in the 90's. The guy he bought it from had only used it as a kicker. My brother used the motor as his primary motor on his 14' aluminum until sometime in the late 90's. It then sat in storage for the better part of a decade with no use. It also had not been serviced before it was put away.



It's surprisingly clean on the inside, though it could use some love.




I pulled the plugs and both looked like this:



I hit them with the wire brush to clean them up before trying to get the motor started. After nearly pulling my arm off with no results, I figured I'd try turn the On/Off switch to Off and see if that made any difference. It sputtered and started, then died. After a few more pulls it fired up. It actually runs pretty good considering it's been sitting for so long.

I ran the engine for about 5 minutes. I've since changed the oil, gear oil and gapped the plugs to .028. It's running good, but seems to be a bit on the high side for an idle. I think it may also be running a bit rich.



I am having a bit of an issue with the starter making a "tinging" noise when I go above 3/4 throttle. It goes away when I go below 1/2 throttle and give the pull cord a short 2-3" pull. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Any tips on general maintenance?

Neil
 
I've since figured out the tinging noise coming from the pull start. There was a tiny tension spring that came out of place. Once I noticed that and put it back where it's supposed to be, the little metal pieces that come out to engage the engin are now held in place.

Pull cord assembly removed and cover plate taken off. You can see the metal pieces that come out when you pull the cord. They engage the engine and give it a spin. There was a lot of graphite lubricant on the pieces. You can also see the metal retaining spring in the center.



You can see where the metal pieces were banging against the housing.



This is a picture of the starter with the cover over top. You can see there are two small "L" shaped holes cut in the cover. The retainer spring is poking out of one of them. This provides a bit of tension on the cover and holds the metal bits in place so they don't ring off the housing.



Neil
 
I figured out what was causing the pinging noise in the old Honda. There is a retaining spring that holds the cover in place and provides a bit of tension for the metal pieces that engage the engine. When it was out of place the metal pieces would spread out and ring off the housing.

As you can see the metal pieces have a lot of graphite lube on them. There's also a little little spring in the center of the assembly that holds everything in place.



When the spring was out of place, the little metal pieces would ring against the housing at full throttle.



You can see that there are two 'L' shaped holes in the cover of the starter assembly. You can also see the little metal spring poking out of one of the holes. Once the spring was put back into place the ringing noise stopped.



Neil
 
Hi, welcome aboard the forum. It looks as if you have obtained one of the beautiful old twins that Made Honda Marine USA their "chops" and secured the Honda reputation for reliability, easy starting and QUIET operation on the American boating scene. Congratulations!

I read your Sea Foam decarb story and yes, I love that stuff too.

You had better be careful though......if you keep tinkering, tweaking and adjusting on her you'll end up being the the new 75-100 expert on the site ;~)


Seriously though, thanks for joining and sharing your experiences.
Jimmyd.
 
Thanks for the welcome Jimmy! I was hoping to find a bit more information on this board, but I guess there's not a lot of these old Honda's out there anymore. It runs like a top with only a few pulls to start. It's also quite a bit lighter than the newer models for some reason. I'm guessing that the weight difference between the old and new is due to electronics.

Oh well, I'm hoping for a good number of years of reliable service from this little engine.

Neil
 
Well, I would have to disagree that there aren't a lot of the old twins left. I see them constantly and currently own several myself. What sort of information were you seeking? You seem to have solved all the problems you've listed thus far.

Yes, the later models are replacing them because they are even more reliable and easy to own. But I predict many of the pre 2000 twins will be working hard for another decade or two. And, if Honda saw fit to offer a complete line of replacement parts, they would likely go on forever.

I pretty much buy every one of these I find that don't run either in hopes of restoring it to service or for parts. Many new parts are still available and you can try boats.net if you need to replace something.

Here's to you getting many great days on the water with yours.
 
It's reassuring to hear that there's still a bunch kicking around. So far I've really only noticed a few old Johnson's and Evinrude's in my area, but that could be due to me actually having an interest in boats within the last month or so. It's one of those things where you don't notice how many are around you until you own one. It's like the little Boler I have. I didn't really notice how many were still on the road until I picked one up.

In terms of information it would be nice to identify the age and model so I could keep an eye out for any parts that I might come across in my travels. In terms of specific items I'd like to fix, the oil-pressure light works, but it's not actually secured to the engine anymore. It looks like after it broke my brother used an epoxy or something to try and hold it in place. You can see all the orange goop that's currently being used to hold the light in on the side picture of the motor with the cowling off. It would be nice to have it fixed properly.

I'd also like to fix the On/Off switch. Once again my brother repaired it, but the toggle is broken and is wired so that the On position is actually Off and the Off position is actually On. I know I can just flip the switch over, but if I'm going to fix it, I'd like to get a new switch in there rather than having a small broken toggle in there.

Neil
 
Last one I got was " free " at a dealer.----Not interested in fixing or keeping it for parts he was.-------------Replace the impeller and check the valve clearance on yours.----Both important steps to take.
 
Well, I see you included your frame number in your original post so hondadude can probably provide you with accurate model and date of sale info. I know he monitors the site closely but I also know this is his busiest time at the Honda shop. I'm sure he will respond when time permits.
 
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