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New Crusader Owner needs help with engine tuning/timing

S

shinola

Regular Contributor
Hi everyone, I've been a member here for years but spent most of my time over on Evinrude or Yamaha outboard forums. I've owned a Shamrock years ago, the 17' baby Shamrock with Mitsubishi inline 4, and now I own a Chevy 350.

A few months back, while searching for a repower Yamaha for my Bay boat, I came across a 1974 Chris Craft 22' Tournament Fisher (or maybe also called a Cutlass) with a 2004 repower carbureted Chevy 350 from Crusader. It runs well but has a few issues. Research led me to check timing, so I'll list that below.

The issues:
1. Sometimes diesels when I shut off the engine. Not always though.
2. Is hard to crank when warm. I took it offshore here in Melbourne Beach FL a couple of weekends ago to troll for Kings. If I shift to nuetral from idle trolling to clear weeks or a tangle, it shut off, dieseling sometimes. It then took about 15 min of wait before I could crank again. This happened 3 or 4 times.

I checked timing after some research suggested timing could be an issue. Per my manual, timing at 4000 RPM should be 26 Deg BTDC. I'm afraid to run on the hose above 3200 RPM. Timing measurements at various RPMs:

RPM Timing (Degrees BTDC)
=============================
780 6
945 7
2000 24
3200 30

Is this "close enough" or should I adjust?

OR.... Am I looking at the wrong potential cause?

Thanks,
Brian
 
What's the serial number of the engine?

Have you pulled and checked the spark plugs?

I'd say the timing, if it is consistent, is in the realm of the original specification - what manual are you using? You should NOT run the engine above idle when operating it off of a garden hose...in the water is fine for checking the timing across the RPM band.
 
Model: CXLAVRL152D
Serial: 640608
Manual (document number in footer): L510019-04

I haven't pulled spark plugs. That's going to be fun! But I guess I'll get that done.

I won't be running over idle going forward. Thanks for the info. I didn't like the feel anyway.
 
IMG_5364.JPG
 
so they are fresh water cooled - real good, especially in FLA...

Do you have any maintenance history? Specifically interested to see if the exhaust risers have ever been changed?
 
The manual has 2 pictures for fresh water flow. One is "with Risers" and one "without Risers". The only difference is an approximate 4 or 5" piece between the manifold and exhaust elbow. My engine does not have this "riser". I had thought the elbow portion was called the "riser"...

I don't have any history. I'm told it's low hrs, but no telling how it was maintained. I can't tell by looking if they have been replaced, but the paint matches perfectly suggesting to me they are the risers/elbows that came with the engine.

Since it's freshwater cooled, would I only have to maintain the "riser/elbow" portion of the exhaust, or could the manifolds also corrode? And is replacement the only option, or can they be cleaned of corrosion?
 
poor choice of words on my part...

if you have only the elbows (no risers), then only the elbows should need the regular maintenance (replacement). Depending on the use and the operating environment, they typically have a 5 year service life. Some people have extended it a couple years with regular fresh water flushings after every use.

The elbows rust out and the thin portions give up first. the end result is the (raw) cooling water enters the exhaust passage 'early' and the water winds up in the exhaust manifold. Allowed to continue, the water eventually winds up in the cylinders...the slow cranking could be a result of this process, which is why I suggest pulling the plugs...

With the inline gear, the rear most cylinders are the most likely candidates, so you can start there.

another check is to read the dipstick
 
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thanks Makomark. Which dipstick? I'll pull plugs this weekend. Am I looking for corrosion? Elbows are easy access. I can pull those and inspect the interface to the manifolds also. I saw some options for stainless exhaust elbows. If only a couple of hundred $ difference, maybe that's worth it to prevent what you are describing.

I changed oil 2 weeks ago with Shell Rotella T4.
 
the oil dipstick...if the engine gets frequent use, little water may make it into the pan. Its a rise in the oil level due to the water in the pan...you can also see the water once enough gets into the oil.

could be raw water on the plugs/in the cylinders or corrosion - it the engine was run recently, the corrosion may be masked.

I haven't seen any stainless elbows since Mercruiser has them back in the 90's...they work as I had them...but not in all applications. They had a short run and then it was back to cast iron...couldn't beat the stainless from a cost point and the bean counter won, again!
 
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