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Mercruiser 4.2 overheat damage?

F

Fourshipp

New member
We are trying to buy a 2004 Bryant 190 with a mercruiser 4.2 and 96 hours. It’s a nice, clean boat that has been well maintained. All went well until the test drive. We ran it for just under 5 minutes, idling out of the no wake zone, running about 3000 rpm for about a minute, running wide open for 15-20 seconds, and then back to 3000 for 1-2 minutes. The water temps never came up, and the owner noticed the oil pressure was 80 psi.

We shut it down and there was copious amounts of smoke and steam out of the engine bay and it was obviously hot.

One of the small blue plugs under the right forward engine mount was missing and it was pumping water water into the bilge.

The seller is having it it looked at and if it Gets repaired properly we are still interested.

What areas need to be inspected for damage besides the engine itself (compressions, water in oil, etc). I’m an airplane mechanic so I know my way around an engine but have no experience with stern drives.

I want to make sure the scope of the inspection and repair is adequate.

Thanks,

Bruce
 
I forgot to mention that about 5 minutes after we shut it down I check the oil dipstick.. the oil level was fine and the oil was only slightly warm to the touch.

bruce
 
I'd let him get It repaired,and then take it back out for a long test. Making sure it doesn't over heat and is not mixing water in oil. I'd stay on water for at least 2hrs. Stopping engine and letting it cool down and making sure it starts rite up. Be sure all works blower,bilge pump, nav. lights. If you notice that bilge pump runs alot , that is if it's (bilge with float switch that's automatically wired) stop boat and look in engine compartment and see how much water is coming in if alot, I'd check bellows on out drive. With boat out of water with out drive trimmed all the way up. Get behind boat starboard side and you can see rubber bellows, bottom bellows is exhaust bellow and want let boat flood if cracked, next small bellow is shift cable bellow if cracked-split it can flood boat. Big bellows at top is driveshaft u- joint if it's bad it will flood boat. And while you're inspecting bellows, grab lower unit and moving it left and right , look at steering wheel and make sure there's not excessive play.
 
Mikey N.C. said:
I'd let him get It repaired,and then take it back out for a long test. Making sure it doesn't over heat and is not mixing water in oil. I'd stay on water for at least 2hrs. Stopping engine and letting it cool down and making sure it starts rite up. Be sure all works blower,bilge pump, nav. lights. If you notice that bilge pump runs alot , that is if it's (bilge with float switch that's automatically wired) stop boat and look in engine compartment and see how much water is coming in if alot, I'd check bellows on out drive. With boat out of water with out drive trimmed all the way up. Get behind boat starboard side and you can see rubber bellows, bottom bellows is exhaust bellow and want let boat flood if cracked, next small bellow is shift cable bellow if cracked-split it can flood boat. Big bellows at top is driveshaft u- joint if it's bad it will flood boat. And while you're inspecting bellows, grab lower unit and moving it left and right , look at steering wheel and make sure there's not excessive play.
Click to expand...

Dude,
Chill.........at 96 hrs 99% of what you typed does not apply.

Only concern is how hot it got and what if any residual damage.

Dont become another A$$hole like Ricardo...
Dont want have to read usless spew.

You have a long way to go....to offer your "expert" opinion...
 
kghost said:
Dude,
Chill.........at 96 hrs 99% of what you typed does not apply.

Only concern is how hot it got and what if any residual damage.

Dont become another A$$hole like Ricardo...
Dont want have to read usless spew.

You have a long way to go....to offer your "expert" opinion...
Click to expand...
Actually, if he does buy the boat with the engine repaired, everything the poster said DOES apply. It's called yearly maintenance which includes pulling the drive, greasing the gimbal bearing, greasing u-joints if they're not sealed & inspecting u-joint bellows & looking for water intrusion. Yea, that's what boat owners who are responsible & want to take care of them do, instead of waiting for a shop to bail them out. You obviously are the one who has a long way to go before offering "expert" advise. Btw Ace, 96 hours on a boat engine is a lot of hours. Duh!
 
Whiteside, guess that's why they charge $200. hr. for there expertise.
I assumed prospect buyer , hasn't owned a boat before.
 
Mikey N.C. said:
Whiteside, guess that's why they charge $200. hr. for there expertise.
I assumed prospect buyer , hasn't owned a boat before.
Click to expand...
Yep & this time of year the waiting list to get into a shop can be a couple weeks if not longer. Those Bryants are good boats. Hope the OP gets it straightened out.....
 
whiteside said:
Actually, if he does buy the boat with the engine repaired, everything the poster said DOES apply. It's called yearly maintenance which includes pulling the drive, greasing the gimbal bearing, greasing u-joints if they're not sealed & inspecting u-joint bellows & looking for water intrusion. Yea, that's what boat owners who are responsible & want to take care of them do, instead of waiting for a shop to bail them out. You obviously are the one who has a long way to go before offering "expert" advise. Btw Ace, 96 hours on a boat engine is a lot of hours. Duh!
Click to expand...

Yoo my man,
Your wrong.

Topic, over heat during demo lake test.
What to look for and or expect from seller when repair shop looks over the engine for potential over heat damage.

Nothing, I repeat Nothing in the original post has anything to do with annual maintanence or anything of the sort.
If the guy buys the boat and then inquires about those topics then it applies.

Maybe answer the op questions. Like the little blue thingy he refers to...maybe answer what it is and what it is for.

DUH!

Another expert "Newbie" with an opinion...f'n great!
 
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kghost said:
Yoo my man,
Your wrong.

Topic, over heat during demo lake test.
What to look for and or expect from seller when repair shop looks over the engine for potential over heat damage.

Nothing, I repeat Nothing in the original post has anything to do with annual maintanence or anything of the sort.
If the guy buys the boat and then inquires about those topics then it applies.

Maybe answer the op questions. Like the little blue thingy he refers to...maybe answer what it is and what it is for.

DUH!

Another expert "Newbie" with an opinion...f'n great!
Click to expand...
And how is the buyer suppose to know if the owner does yearly maintenance, genius? Take his word for it or use his crystal ball? I was merely suggesting what an owner/buyer of a used boat should do. Is there a highway nearby that you can play on?
 
First off, there is nothing wrong with providing the OP with more information than what was asked for. In the end, it will very likely be helpful.
To think otherwise, is silly!

Mikey N.C. said:
Wouldn't potential buyer want to know?
Click to expand...
Yes!

Mikey N.C. said:
Most new engines have pull handle to drain..
Bad idea!
These are known as a "single point drain system" and should never be used.

Off topic but up north do y'all use winterizing tank above with muffs.
Again, bad idea if you are referring to the use of the Camco and/or Star-Brite winterizing kits for a Raw Water Cooled engine!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3BD7X6QC3KCFR?ref=pf_vv_at_pdctrvw_srp
Click to expand...

Bruce, do yourself, your family and your bank account a favor by having a Marine Survey performed.


.
 
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....................
kghost said:
Whats a tank with muffs? winterize?
Jack, I'm surprised at you for not knowing this!


who does that anymore?
If referring to the use of the Camco or Star-Brite unit for winterizing a raw water cooled engine..........., hopefully none of us!
Click to expand...
 
Doh...I thought this bag of snakes was tied good and tight before I tossed it in here��.

The boat goes to the seller’s shop Friday, and it will be a week after that for repairs. That’s the latest brief update I got yesterday.

After reviewing the failed test run, my best guess is approximately 1:30 to 2 minutes at idle, 45 seconds at 3000 rpm, 15 seconds at full throttle, another 30-45 seconds at 3000 rpm, then shut down. So less than 4 minutes total.

So, we’ll wait for the report from owner’s shop and go from there. I’ll likely be back here with those results to see if there was anything missed.

this is our first Large boat. We’ve owned 14-18’ outboard hunting fishing boats forever. So, going in I have solid general mechanical knowledge and experience but know nothing if the inner workings of the stern drive.

thanks for the insights

Bruce
 
It takes a lot longer for overheat failure then 4 minutes.
Water was flowing through engine just not through the exhaust if i understood your original post.

Most it may need is some new exhaust rubber and possibly an elbow.

Sounds like a positive outcome is on the horizon.
 
kghost said:
Yoo my man,
Your wrong.

Topic, over heat during demo lake test.
What to look for and or expect from seller when repair shop looks over the engine for potential over heat damage.

Nothing, I repeat Nothing in the original post has anything to do with annual maintanence or anything of the sort.
If the guy buys the boat and then inquires about those topics then it applies.

Maybe answer the op questions. Like the little blue thingy he refers to...maybe answer what it is and what it is for.

DUH!

Another expert "Newbie" with an opinion...f'n great!
Click to expand...
Genius, how do you adjust the shift cable on an OMC Cobra? What is the proper rpm for the esa switch to work properly? How do you hold the bellcrank in position when doing the adjustment? How bout the cable? BWHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Let's have it, Einstein.
 
Hey WhiteA$$,
Must we remind you, this is Mercruiser.
OMC is gone....and good riddence.
biggest piece of sh!t ever made. Almost as bad as there stringer drives...

Who cares how to adjust a piece of crap that makes up less than 1% of operating outdrives....
Was certified in Omc outdrives back in the day...glad that day is over!!

Bahahahaha....
 
kghost said:
Hey WhiteA$$,
Must we remind you, this is Mercruiser.
OMC is gone....and good riddence.
biggest piece of sh!t ever made. Almost as bad as there stringer drives...

Who cares how to adjust a piece of crap that makes up less than 1% of operating outdrives....
Was certified in Omc outdrives back in the day...glad that day is over!!

Bahahahaha....
Click to expand...
I would put a proprly maintained Cobra up against a Merc any day. Shift cable adjusted proprly, drive maintained theyre bulletproof. That's how much you know, genius.

How do you refill a Cobra with gear oil? BAHAHAHAHAHAHA
 
I use a straw....

Glad you feel an OMC will stand up against a Merceuiser.

Good luck with that!

Maybe head over to the OMC forum.
Maybe you will find a new home where someone may think you know what your talking about!!

No one on this forum gives a sh!t about OMC outdrives....thats why we are here.
Maybe some of us that is (R)
 
kghost said:
I use a straw....

Glad you feel an OMC will stand up against a Merceuiser.

Good luck with that!

Maybe head over to the OMC forum.
Maybe you will find a new home where someone may think you know what your talking about!!

No one on this forum gives a sh!t about OMC outdrives....thats why we are here.
Maybe some of us that is (R)
Click to expand...
Never could figure out how to adjust one, right? What's an overstroke switch, Ace? BWHAHAHAHAHAHA
 
Yes your so right, never could figure out how to adjust one Ace...

I guess the many factory traing sessions taught me nothing and they handdd me several OMC certification certificates because I could adjust thier junk...
Cobra, King Cobra, outboard, advance outboard and advanced I/O...

Yup just a bunch of toilet paper in the end, maybe you would like them now that i have used them to wipe my A$$?
You must be tired of using your fingers....unless of course if you like the taste...I bet you do.....
Bahahaaaa
 
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