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Merc 3.0LX No Spark

kghost said:
Impossible....

You set base static timing when the intake valve closes (base circle when both valves are closed) before exhaust opens...mechanically set marks to zero. Marker plate and harmonic mark. Then install distributor as close to #1 plug terminal lining up with rotor buy turning dist.

Then when trying to start, you may have to turn dist to get it to start. Then adjust for actual.

Rethink your approach...
Click to expand...
I got the motor to 1 degree BTDC(by turning the key and using the starter to turn the motor to line up the marks on the plate and the pulley) but on the wrong stroke, my approach was correct for everything else. I did everything you just said but the issue is I'm on the exhaust stroke which makes a lot of sense for what is happening in the video I sent.

Any tips on how to turn the motor over while its in the boat without using the key would be awesome.
 
Firing order will still be 1342, just move the wires 180 degrees to compensate for being on exhaust stroke when installed.
IDK exactly how you feel you have the timing exactly at 1deg btdc simply because the pulley was set up with the timing mark & installing the distributor. Close yes but exact, no.

In the old days of points, I would set initial timing by putting the timing mark at the specified location then using an ohm meter slowly rotating the distributor until the points opened. Very close but still used a timing light for final setting.

From a funtional standpoint, the engine doesn't care which cap tower has #1 wire. It cares about timing & firing order.
 
MrHProblems said:
I know how to when I can manually turn over the motor, but having to turn the key to do it makes it tough.
Click to expand...
Make a remote stater rig,

Two switches, one on/off the other momentary

Wire two poats together which will connect to battery.
On/off wire will go to coil +
Momentary will go to slave soleniod small yellow with red stripe.
This will allow remote crank/start capability.

I have made small plastic boxes with the switches mounted in box lid just for this purpose. Makes for this type of work so much easier!
 
Removing the spark plugs will help you rotate the engine by hand.
You will need to rotate in the direction of normal engine operation otherwise you will get timing gear (no timing chain on that engine, just 2 gears) slop induced into the camshaft position. Certainly not as much as a chain driven engine but still some.
 
Tonight me and my buddy will get the motor to TDC on the compression side and reinstall the distributor and use a timing light to narrow it in to the perfect point.

Thank you everyone for all the help from multiple days ago when I went head first into this sh** storm, If we run into any more problems tonight I will update as well!

As of now the motor cranks over perfectly with the plug wires rotated 180 degrees.
 
Droid said:
Removing the spark plugs will help you rotate the engine by hand.
You will need to rotate in the direction of normal engine operation otherwise you will get timing gear (no timing chain on that engine, just 2 gears) slop induced into the camshaft position. Certainly not as much as a chain driven engine but still some.
Click to expand...
Can't get a socket onto the crankshaft to rotate it by hand is the issue.
 
MrHProblems said:
Can't get a socket onto the crankshaft to rotate it by hand is the issue.
Click to expand...
Jumper wire from battery + to slave solenoid small yellow with red stripe. Will crank engine. Best to connect to a switch so you can control on/off. A momentary switch works best
 
Yes. i use this set up all the time. Especially when the dash is 10-15 ft away...

In fact its better as its direct battery voltage. Kind of like jumping a stater solenoid. But controlled vs using a screw driver or wrench
 
Yes it will.
With plugs out & pulling on the belt to make it tighter you can probably work it around to "close enough" by hand.
I'm not sitting in my bilge but I believe the distributor turns clockwise. Take the cap off & verify which way it turns when cranking.
It is possible you reversed the wires but have #1 in the correct spot too. In that case, #1 & 4 would be correct & trying to start while 2 & 4 would be 180 out & causing it to kick backwards.
 
Thank you everyone for all the help!
The boat is correctly timed and running great and revving even better!

For those who may see this forum in the future:

I stored my boat over the winter and the distributor went bad, I then got a new distributor and installed it and the new distributor EST module was bad out of the box, my kill switch died over the winter in the off position as well, and I was experiencing voltage drop from a corroded connection wrap in electrical tape just above the starter solenoid.

The solution was new distributor with the old EST module, new kill switch and cleaning all my electrical connections.
 
I doubt the ignition module was DOA...its failure was more likely due to the attempt to bypass the shift interrupter switch.
 
Fantastic.
I've been owning & playing with MerCruiser & OMC inline 4 & 6 cylinder engines for 46 years. All were old school points/condenser systems.
 
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