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Mefi 4

J

Johnny b good

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I have a engine light due to cmp fault
I pull out the shematic for mefi 4 and the yellow wire from ckp shows it goes to the middle position of the cmp. Mine does not go in the middle goes at the brown place.
Looks like the schematic is wrong for my engine, was there a revision since?
My engine are captain choice 5.7 2004 with mefi 4
 
are you looking at the correct schematic for your engine?

lots of PCM service data has more than one engine covered in it.

If you want to, provide the document # (l51xxxx-y) and the page and we can probably get it resolved in short order. typically, the CKP and CMP sensors share their power supply leads and the actual sensor output (pulses) are on separate wires going back to the ECU.
 
makomark said:
are you looking at the correct schematic for your engine?

lots of PCM service data has more than one engine covered in it.

If you want to, provide the document # (l51xxxx-y) and the page and we can probably get it resolved in short order. typically, the CKP and CMP sensors share their power supply leads and the actual sensor output (pulses) are on separate wires going back to the ECU.
Click to expand...
Yes I know all that. I also checked if all my wires are good, no resistance.
Here's the schematic I found
 
page 5-19 is for the 8.1 and 6.0 engines...the 5.7l engine diagram is on pg 5-33. the other thing about those scematics - you have to pay attention to the pin labels, not necessarily the position of a given terminal on the drawing.
 
makomark said:
page 5-19 is for the 8.1 and 6.0 engines...the 5.7l engine diagram is on pg 5-33. the other thing about those scematics - you have to pay attention to the pin labels, not necessarily the position of a given terminal on the drawing.
Click to expand...
You are good, thank you never thought the label was important I was blind with the drawing.
B with B A with A
 
makomark said:
page 5-19 is for the 8.1 and 6.0 engines...the 5.7l engine diagram is on pg 5-33. the other thing about those scematics - you have to pay attention to the pin labels, not necessarily the position of a given terminal on the drawing.
Click to expand...
I replace both sensor (ckp and cps) with new purchase on Ebay. Still get engine light and message on my gateway says camshaft sensor fault.
 
Johnny b good said:
I don’t see any detail for this DRC81 troubleshooting, can you help?
Click to expand...
Sorry DTC81
If you are referring at conductivity on all wires from crankshaft sensor and distributor sensor yes I did.
All my wires are good with no resistence.
I also disconnected the red and pushed 12v with a seal beam to see if my res wire is good.
Every thing works but still get a 81 code for the camshaft senror.
I wonder if the sensor I purchase fron Ebay is good.
A mecanique guy here saysbit could be my distributor. He saw rust on the top of the shaft (under the rotor) and says the sensor may have problem reading.
Here’s a picture
 
Johnny b good said:
Sorry DTC81
If you are referring at conductivity on all wires from crankshaft sensor and distributor sensor yes I did.
All my wires are good with no resistence.
I also disconnected the red and pushed 12v with a seal beam to see if my res wire is good.
Every thing works but still get a 81 code for the camshaft senror.
I wonder if the sensor I purchase fron Ebay is good.
A mecanique guy here saysbit could be my distributor. He saw rust on the top of the shaft (under the rotor) and says the sensor may have problem reading.
Here’s a picture
Click to expand...
Can’t send file to big
 
does the engine run?

the procedure does the continuity test and then has you check for the pulses coming from the sensor. look on page 5-128
 
makomark said:
does the engine run?

the procedure does the continuity test and then has you check for the pulses coming from the sensor. look on page 5-128
Click to expand...
Engine run’s with a engine light and buzzer.
Get a code 81 for camshaft position sensor, replace twice with no change.
Engine run’s smooth but the cam retard says 0 it should read 45
 
makomark said:
you didn't try to 'adjust the timing' did you?
Click to expand...
Yes I did but nothing change. I replace it where it was.
My gateway (Fox) says 0 for the cam retard no matter how it’s turn.
The original was at 45 when I started the engine this spring and to up tain 45 my distributor had to be touching the intake.
By the way, don’t know if it does a difference, both my engine where rebuild this winter and ran find for about an hour and latter it’s started the problems.
At first it was the camshaft sensor that was replace and now the distributor sensor
 
I guess you have figured out that moving the distributor doesn't change the timing but it does change the cam retard value...never tried to set the cam retard using a gateway, only a scan tool or a PC with the DIACOM software and cable...

the camshaft sensor is the one in the distributor...??

not sure what "... tain 45 my distributor had to be touching the intake." is getting at.
 
that is good; the RH engines with the HVS distributors are known to have problems.

You may be able to adjust the cam retard with the gateway - I've never done it that way so can't tell you either way.
 
Yes VHS distributor and yes It’s quite easy to adjust can retard with my gateway
I have 2 new VHS distributor on it’s way, hope this will solve my problem
 
HVS...just follow the procedure for installing the new ones...will save you a lot of time down the road...
 
makomark said:
HVS...just follow the procedure for installing the new ones...will save you a lot of time down the road...
Click to expand...
After hours and hours of labour and parts I finally repaired my engine problem.
Never, never, never by aftermarket electronics parts.
After replacing with 3 new Camshaft sensor I réalise they where defective.
I switch from one engine to other and found out even new they where defective.

New parts coming in soon but this time oem.
 
good for you...

OEM is almost always good but not always cost effective...one has to be leery of the 'really cheaply priced' parts that are becoming very common in some venues...high quality does have its costs and that doesn't mean it makes sense to pay double for a part based on the sticker placed on the box containing it...
 
makomark said:
good for you...

OEM is almost always good but not always cost effective...one has to be leery of the 'really cheaply priced' parts that are becoming very common in some venues...high quality does have its costs and that doesn't mean it makes sense to pay double for a part based on the sticker placed on the box containing it...
Click to expand...
Now it’s the crankshaft that giving me the trouble, I suspect that it needs shims when installing, it rubs in the internal disk.
 
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