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Mariner 55 identification

wynjim55

wynjim55

Regular Contributor
Hi all,

I recently obtained my first boat, nothing flash but when you get it for the right price you can't complain. It needs a lot of little things sorted out but seems to be a worthwhile project.

The boat is fitted with a Mariner 55hp 2 cylinder. The tag reads:
MARINER 55
663S 0161
x Made in Japan

I have no idea about the model or year and need this info to be able to buy a repair manual. Any ideas? It is an Australian outboard. Thanks in advance,

Paul
 
Welcome Paul, I went through the same thing with mine. I can't even remember where I discovered my year, but it's in the serial no. range. I also have a Jap built Mariner, and I beleive they were all built between 1977 & 1981. All you really need is the model to get a manual. There are lots of them on e-bay. Look for an origenal Service Manual.
 
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Thanks for the info, this is my first attempt at boating/outboards/etc so I'm sure mst of my initial questions will be very basic. Ebay sounds like a great place to start for a repair manual.
 
I get 1975,however you are missing a number 663S 0161x ? If the number is missing from the front 663S x0161 then that changes the the year
 
Thanks haventaclue, if there is a number missing it would be at the right hand end. The stamping is quite clear but the area around the right rivet is pitted and there may be a digit amongst that. There would be a fair gap between the other digits and the missing one though if this is the case. Cheers
 
Hi, do you still need a manual for this engine? I have a near new one here you can have for $20 plus postage, am in Australia so postage will be around $5-$7.
I also have a fair amount of 60hp parts (48/50/55/60 all the same basic engine) and a source for new parts, if you need help, just ask on the forums here.

Regards, Andrew.
 
typhoon,

thanks for the offer on the manual that sounds like a good deal. Send me a message and we'll work out the details from there. My postcode is 4655. Cheers
 
The 55 horse twin "A" model shared a block with the 60 horse twin so many parts are interchangable.

The 55 Mariner, which was a copy of Yamaha's own 55A (built between 1974-79) saw two model runs.

It's first run was 1974-76 (replaced by the 60 twin in 1977).

It got a second launch in 1984 (guess they had parts left over because it was not modified or upgraded at all) but was discontinued again after 1985 - but in 86/87 it was produced, in limited numbers, as a commercial (work) model and sold mostly in Asia.

At a little over 46 cubic inches this was the largest displacement twin ever produced by Yamaha (or any mfg for that matter, at least as far back as my records go)...
 
It never fails to amaze me how much knowledge can be found in forums like this one for any topic you care to consider. Regardless of what you want to know about if you find the right forum and raise the right topic the information available just flows.
 
Interesting, I have a mariner 48 [1978 ] which is I think the same engine. I have been wondering what the Yamaha model designation was. My OEM manual shows the 48, 55 and 60 HP as the same engine with minor tuning differences. The 48 is manual start the others are electric. My curiosity is because I would like to convert my 48 to electric start so having the yamaha model # would help in the parts search.
 
The 55-60 have different reeds and carbs to the other large block twins, ignition timing is also fairly different. I don't think it would be as simple as just bolting some parts on, I bet the porting is different too.
60 powerheads are cheap and easy enough to find in Australia, I just sold a complete, rebuildable powerhead for $50.
Does the 48 block have the starter "ears" cast under the flywheel near the fuel pump?
My 60-
Boat2010001.jpg

Regards, Andrew.
 
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Yes, the 48 did share the big twin block.

It was the Mariner version of Yamaha's model 48AR sold between 1974-79.

And as noted these are not a simple carb swap upgrade - I think the reed cages are different as well, so you would be replacing most of the intake on the motor in addition to the carb.

You could spend alot of money turning a 48 into a 60 horse only to find that the 60 only gives about 10% better performance, and only at the extreme top end.

So you really have to ask yourself - how much is 2 or 3 mph worth to you?
 
wynjim55 said:
Typhoon that's a mighty clean looking outboard you have there. How old is that photo?
Click to expand...


The photo is about 3 months old. I rebuilt the engine and whilst it was apart thought it would be a shame not to paint it, as the paint was quite faded. I mixed and matched parts from two outboards, picked the best and put it together. Neither of the outboards had much corrosion, so it wasn't too hard.
I painted the leg in PPG 2k paint, etch primer etc and the powerhead with plain old engine enamel, for easy touch ups. The whole engine was reassembled with Duralac on all new cad plated fasteners, so it will come apart MUCH easier next time! The total cost of buying both outboards, new rings, powerhead gasket kit, paint, fasteners, new starter motor etc was about $1k, and for that I have a brand new engine that'll go another 10-20 years, so why not make it look nice?:)
For you guys overseas, a Mariner 60 twin comes up for sale here about once a month, and they usually sell for $300 AUD, so if you want parts, work out whether postage makes it worthwhile, then let me know. If I get enough genuine interest, I'll start buying these engines and parting them out. I know it's hard to find the bigger engines overseas and Australia is probably your best bet.

Regards, Andrew.
 
Hi i thought i'd post on this thread as its concerning the same engine.
I'm new here and new the the outboard world. My granddad passed away and i got given his old 1979 Mariner 55hp. Did some research but didn't find much except its also under a Yamaha brand sometimes.

Anyway, the engine has been well looked after and Its supposed to run. But it came with all those old forward controls, cables etc. I just wanted to put new power lines, and upgrade the forward control and put it on a hull i just bought.

Also i wanted to hook the starter up and see if the engine would turn over to check compression and sparks before i do go forward with it, do you guys know where the positive and negative wires go? both on the starter? negative on the top and positive on the bottom? And would anyone know what that fuse holder is for as the fuse inside is blown.

2012-04-15083628.jpg


Would anyone be able to help me find a free wiring diagram or a free repair manual for this engine?
It would be greatly appreciated.

I'm in Perth, australia:)
Thx
 
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There seem to be mixed opinions on how good these older 2 cylinder Yamaha built Mariner engines are, but having had mine for less than two years and not knowing the history of it, to me they seem very good. I like the simplicity of the layout and how it all works together. The main leads from the battery attach to the starter motor. The negative attaches to the same point as you have marked on your photo, the positive attaches at the bottom of the starter motor. The fuse may be blown for a number of reasons but it will need to be replaced before things will work asthey should. It would be difficult to find out why it has blown not knowing what was happening when it did so. Check you forum mail box :)
 
If you recently replaced the starter solenoid (pictured in your photo) I would connect all the wires up as necessary, make sure everything works, then spray paint over the outside of the solenoid and the terminal connections to seal it up. Some sikaflex over the join where the solenoid meets the starter body before painting would be a good idea too. I replaced the starter solenoid on mine, having an auto electrician install it, and when it corroded and stopped working within a month the warranty was void as it was not sealed. The auto elec sold the business soon after that, so no recourse worth chasing. I replaced it myself and on advice sealed it up as above and it is going strong now.
 
Hi guys,

A bit of time passed since my last post. I finally connected the engine up with the help of a mate. It runs. Will be testing it this weekend. I started it on 100:1 but i'm not sure if i should use 50:1. Would anyone know?

Also anyone know the colour code or where i can get paint for it? I want to paint it the original color or close.
Thx
 
You'll Most certainly damage a two stroke engine by running lean. When in doubt, always run a bit rich! And I am pretty sure guyjg is right on the money:)
 
You are doubting another man named Guy? Go ahead and run it on 100:1 and let us know what happens down the lake. Take a 2-way radio w/you.
 
guyjg said:
You are doubting another man named Guy? Go ahead and run it on 100:1 and let us know what happens down the lake. Take a 2-way radio w/you.
Click to expand...

Hahahahaha. I'm not doubting you, i'm just making sure. No offense but you never know what experience people have and if they say is accurate. But if two + people say the same thing then its just making sure and Like you mentioned, I don't want to blow it up and prefer to be safe than sorry. Hope i didn't offend:)

Thx
 
Merc's and Mariners, whether they were made by Merc, Yami, or Merc using others parts were never "factory built" to run at 100:1.

Yamaha has built some of their own more recent (last 15 years or so) motors that do run on 100:1. It has to do with the construction of the bearings in the motor in question.

In 1986/7 OMC briefly sold engines that were rated for 100:1 but they quickly retracted that with a notice as follows:

100to1.jpg

Bottom line is "ALL" Merc and Mariner 2 stroke motors produced after 1965 (to present), if using mixed gas, should run a minimum of 86 Octane (91 RON) mixed 50:1 with TCW3 rated 2 stroke outboard oil.
 
Ok so went on the river today and the boat performed well. I'm very happy with it. Just wandering however, The prop/impeller i got on the boat looks small compared to may mates 40hp prop and i was wandering if i can still get a performance prop for them and where can i get one. Any body have one?

Thx
 
http://www.mercurymarine.com/propellers/prop-selector/#

This is a helpful guide, but you won't know what's best until the prop is on the boat. You'll need a tach to see where your rpm's are with your current prop to choose whether to go up or down, or to stay with what you have. A prop should never put your rpm's below 4500 at wot, or above 5500 at wot. The upper or lower ends of the range depends on what you use it for.
 
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