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Johnson/Evinrude 55 HP what does this dirty lower unit mean?

that is to mean 20 inches and twenty nine / thirty seconds of an inch plus or minus one thirty second of an inch, that is from the top of the gear case to the middle of the hole in shift rod, sorry can't convert to metric.
mine worked good after rebuild, how does the reverse gear look were the dog locks in??? for some reason can't remember if i replaced reverse gear (age), i know i didn't replace foreword. and yes "actually in practise doesnt matter a whole let" now keep in mind i'm just a DIY'er some guys on here are gold minds of wisdom!
 
Ah fantastic, thank you sir!

mm lengths very helpful. And yeah that confirms my suspicion about the clutch dog.

The reverse gears looks surprisingly good actually. I was expecting them to be chewed up but I cant notice any issues so havnt replaced them. I was told by someone more knowledgeable than myself that the clutch dogs are made form a less strong material than the actual gears deliberately so that they wear over the actual gears so it seems that confirms that theory as the gears themselves look good as new.

I cant wait to give this a try. Did a major parts order yesterday (replacing a load of seals/housing cases whilst I'm at it!) so will have to wait a couple of weeks for everything to make its way over here.

One thought, do you recall seeing any good videos or tutorials on the reassembly process? Im particularly curious about the right kind of oils/lubricant to use/not use in this situation. For example...

1) Marine grease, where to use this verses not use this?

2) In the gearcase I pan to lightly coat the inside with gear oil, then after all done obviously top up with gear oil before starting the engine. Is that advisable? Perhaps only a top up when done is enough but I suggest the light coating to ensure when this starts for the first time (since I'll be cleaning all the parts so theyll be quite dry) lube is already in place (maybe thats overkill / not necessary?).

3) I saw the previous owner had used some kind of sealant on the top of the water pump o-ring that makes the seal there (which I have a new oring for). Does anyone else reccomend using an additional sealant there and if so what would I be looking for there so it doesnt eat the rubber etc.

4) Any other weird and wonderful oils/greases/lubricants etc I should be thinking about?

Thanks ahead!
 
Hi Folks.

Getting closer to reassembling all this. Any tips on what lubricants/sealants etc to use when and where when putting it back?

I've read its best to dip all the parts inside the gearcase in gear oil which makes sense so it wont be dry when starting the first time (before the new oil I put in the case gets a chance to circulate)

Any other tips?
 
I've rebuilt both my units(have a backup), only used gear oil. my manual talks about " needle bearing assembly grease" to hold thing in place while working with parts. didn't have it, didn't use any grease.
 
Hi. For anyone wanting the exact measurement of this if it helps my orignial manual just arrived. Its the

1980 Evinrude Service Manual
50/55/60 HP Models
E50ECS - E50ELCS
E55RCS - E55RLCS
E60ECS - E60ELCS

It states (for 55 HP models)

Imperial: 21-23/32" ± 1/32"
Metric: 542.52 ± 0.79

Strangely this was a bit different to your measurement from the Clymer manual @scalhound506 but I'm included to trust this measurement since its the original Evinrude manual.
 
glad you got the correct info, sorry, original manual is the way to go.
but a little story from the past, ( don't anyone do this) old outboard mechanic lived in neighborhood, and asked how to get shift rod correct, he said "screw the rod all the way in, til snug, then unscrew and count the turns" say like 22 turns then half that number and that's the adjustment, worked the one time in the 1990's i tried it, on first ever motor i owned, don't anyone do this, just an old story
 
( don't anyone do this) old outboard mechanic lived in neighborhood, and asked how to get shift rod correct, he said "screw the rod all the way in, til snug, then unscrew and count the turns" say like 22 turns then half that number and that's the adjustment, worked the one time in the 1990's i tried it, on first ever motor i
Click to expand...

Sounds like my kind of method! :-D

Thanks again for all the help in here!
 
So you know (and so others know) @Scalhoun506 you were right on this measurement you posted from the Clymer manual. My figure was wrong as strangely the figure I had refers only to the 55HP manual start (not electric). Was a whole saga finding that out, should have listened to you in the first place :)
 
jasondainter said:
So you know (and so others know) @Scalhoun506 you were right on this measurement you posted from the Clymer manual. My figure was wrong as strangely the figure I had refers only to the 55HP manual start (not electric). Was a whole saga finding that out, should have listened to you in the first place :)
Click to expand...
I know this old but my lower unit looks just like that when I took it off and got me wondering if it’s worth cleaning and changing everything. Did everything work fine when you finished cleaning it and putting it back together? Thanks
 
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