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Johnson/Evinrude 55 HP what does this dirty lower unit mean?

jasondainter

jasondainter

Regular Contributor
Hi Folks.

I've had a problem with my reverse for some time (grinding probably clutch dog and/or gears worn). I took off the lower unit yesterday (thanks youtube!) but it was super dirty inside this compartment with a lot dry grime and crap I didnt expect to see.

Should I be very concerned its so dirty in there as sugests water / stuff is getting in somehow? Anyone know if this is common and if I can simply replace seals to fix this happening again (after I clean it all up!).

Dgereva.jpg




Thanks.
 
yes water gets everywhere in there, if you look close at the drive shaft and the big rubber ring around it you can see the top of the water pump impeller
 
scalhoun506 said:
yes water gets everywhere in there, if you look close at the drive shaft and the big rubber ring around it you can see the top of the water pump impeller
Click to expand...

Thanks! Do you know if this is "normal" behaviour? Other lower units I have seen have been far less mucky than this. In other words is this something I should be concerned about and attempt to fix or is it supposed to contain water in this area (sorry bit of a noob here.. but I'm learning fast!)
 
There is water every where in there.-----Looks like silt from a fast flowing river that settled out in there.----silt is what they call it.-----Check the shift rod height as found.----U tube mechanics will help you there too.
 
Silt - thats the word I was looking for :)

OK so it sounds like this is normal behaviour then and there is supposed to be water slushing around in there. So Ill give it a good clean out and then wont worry about it too much (shout if I misunderstood anything)

Thanks for the help.
 
I agree, it has been running in dirty water. The cooling water enters and fills that entire housing after it has done its job of cooling the powerhead.
 
Ah ok good then this is a bit less scary! I thought I had sprung a leak! :)

Whilst Im on a roll here.. does anyone have any tips on sanding down and painting those units (and will do the top as well). I Bought some nice new decals ready to go on but wondering if anyone has attempted this:

- Any tips on sanding etc or just go for it?
- Any time on priming? What kind of paint is used to prime?
- Any tips on what actual paint is used (I think my original parts manual has this listed at the start actually with the number).
- Any tips on applying this? I presume spraying is best, has anyone had any good affect with a brush or roller (since I dont own a spray gun)?
- Any tips on how to get a nice glossy feel to the paint when done?

Thanks ahead!

Jason
 
I would say fix the gear grinding and any other issues first.----No point in making pig look pretty.----Model # of this motor ?
 
Haha yes absolutely racerone, this is on my post gear fixing list, just thinking ahead :)

I have parts manual which is for models 55 HP J55RCS - J55RLCS. I looked that up a while ago when looking up which model I have but embarrassingly Ive forgotten actually how I found that out. Any idea where you read the exact model number? Either way that manual has already been right so im pretty sure its the one.

In that parts manual it says paint

ES no 209 primer
Spray 172757
1 qt can 376015

ES No 391 white
spray 172748
1 qt can 385300
 
@kevinj yes I think you are right on the engine.

So heres the next challenge and a few questions for you. I managed to get as far as getting the rear gear off, but now wish to remove the pinion gear nut (seen below) attached to the driveshaft so I can take that pinion gear off and access the front and clutch dog etc to inspect those.

QUESTION 1) Does anyone know how to grip the driveshaft end and what kind of socket I need for that. None of my sockets grip this properly and I dont want to risk damaging it. I saw in this video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHGgdt9zODk the guy there makes it look very easy where he grips the bolt with a spanner (at 3:30 in the video) which is easy enough, but then at 3:44 in the video he turns the driveshaft by using what looks like a socket of some kind. Anyone know what that socket is called and where I can find it?

QUESTION 2) I'm starting to suspect my problem (reverse gear grinds and doesnt engage properly) is not due to rounded gears (they all seem fine so far). It may still be the clutch dog (need to inspect that) but assuming when I solve 1) above thats in good shape am I fair to assume this would be related to the shift rod height perhaps not being aligned correctly? Should I be looking at something else?

QUESTION 3) I saw a good video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ufy6W9EI1cg) on how to adjust the shift rod height, however for my engine (http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1980&hp=55&model=J55RLCSA) for a 55HP does anyone know that the correct height is? I understand that the height should be measured between the top surface on the lower unit and the centre of the hole on the shift rod (correct?).

QUESTION 4). Is there any easy trick to testing this out? I had to remove the starter motor in order to get to the bolt when holds the shift rod in place at the top engine unit so to do this the "trial and error" way it sounds very painful to have to undo all those things (starter, shift rod bolt, then the lower unit bolts) then test, then repeat! Is there any pro tip there or is it a case of making sure I measure this thing very accurately to start with to avoid any trial and error approach!

Thanks everyone ahead this forum has been very helpful so far!

The driveshaft top I need to grip with a well fitting socket (below):

JPEBwed.png


BNUxksJ.png


The pinion gear bolt I need to grip with a spanner whilst turning the driveshaft (below):

2QQpBSb.png
 
I got the factory special socket many years ago.----11/16" wrench on the pinion nut.-----Are there some bits of material broken out of that gearcase opening ?
 
@racerone - thanks , yes thats what I'm searching for, do you know what part number that factory socket is or what I could google to find one?

RE: 11/16" wrench, in the video that guy did (similar model I believe) he says 7/8" so bit confused which is right. I'm on the metric system here in Sweden also so trying to figure also what that equates to over here!..
 
After some googling I'm seeing that for my engine it looks like the right measurement for the shift rod length is:

21-23/32”

Can anyone confirm or deny!? Thanks!
 
Thanks fdrgator that helps and confirms what I thought, I tried the 19mm and it was slipping a bit so looks like I need to buy an 18mm (typical the only one of the set I was missing, always the way!).

Anyone have any idea on the shift rod length? My googling shows 21-23/32 but does anyone have a chart for a 1980 johnson 55hp engine who can confirm. Its an electric start. The actual model is 55EL80C but its the same I believe as http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1980&hp=55&model=J55RLCSA
 
Hi Folks. So good news is I'm making progress! Got the little b*****d nut off (you were quite right racerone about it being a 11/16" bolt, I managed to find a set of imperial spanners also so fit nicely). Saved myself a fortune (or long shipping delay since most come from US) on the factory socket for driveshaft by using a little universal socket that gripped the thing perfectly without damaging it (if it helps anyone attempting the same it was one of these similar to https://www.amazon.com/RAK-Universal-Multi-Function-Ratchet-Adapter/dp/B01N4R5UJE)

However.. now I've hit a blocker. That pinion gear you see below after getting the nut off just refuses to come off. I think the end of the driveshaft (the threaded bolt part that the nut came off) is a bit grimey and is putting friction in place to stop the thing gently sliding off like the manual would imply it does.

Ive got the shift in reverse (pushed down fully) and no joy either.

Does anyone know how to get this thing off?!


re5rrp4.png
 
Put the nut back on to protect the thread.-----Fit something between the nut and the clutch dog.-----Give propshaft a hefty bump.----Pinion should now be free of the taper.
 
Thanks @racerone.

Got it off!! Wiggling and wedging between the clutch dog and thread was no joy that thing was jammed on pretty hard (seemed to be caused by a bit of crap that had made its way into the gearcase). Anyhow got a clamp (with some cardboard in between to protect the driveshaft) and heavy hammer and a few taps upward and it came straight off. If it helps anyone else in this pickle heres the set up that did it!...

mQRO47V.png


Anyone have any idea on the shift rod length? My googling shows 21-23/32 but does anyone have a chart for a 1980 johnson 55hp engine who can confirm. Its an electric start. The actual model is 55EL80C but its the same I believe as http://www.marineengine.com/parts/jo...model=J55RLCSA. Quite keen to know that for sure before I put it all back together!
 
The shift rod height you found appears to be wrong.-------I have taken more than one of these units apart !!----Method in post # 20 works for me each and every time !
 
Also by the way, after all that effort I'm fairly sure the clutch dog was the culprit here, heres an image of the reverse side (which was the side that was grinding and not going into gear). Looks quite rounded off to me. I'm not expert but I would say that sounds like the likely cause. I was tempted to swap it round to the other side (totally pristine) which would save a bit of money but frankly after all that effort I will get a brand new one, just in case I end up putting it the same way round again by mistake :-D

CCFFjVV.png
 
You can NOT switch that clutch dog around !!!----You have questioned information I posted a few times already.-------So you need to find the shift rod height for your motor , SORRY
 
Hi.

@Racerone, OK if thats how you have interpreted my messages then I don't really know how to respond to that! If you re-read through my replies any reasonable person can see I have been extremely polite, have thanked you many times for you help and have gone out of my way to post detailed images for other people stuck in this same situation. Regarding the stuck pinion gear, I have read many forum posts from people like me that that tried the method you suggested in #20 and it didn't work due to the gear being too seized). If you find some offence or insult in me finding a solution that wasn't yours, and posting it for others to see, then I think thats very unhelpful behaviour to forum like this.

Then to tell me the information on the shift rod height I have is wrong, not give me any information why you think that is or hide the correct information from me then persecute me like that.. is pretty unfriendly behaviour for someone just looking for some help.

Either way, again, thanks for your input so far which as I have said before has been helpful and I apologise if you found taken offence somehow to something I have said.

If anyone there who is feeling like they do wish to help me out with this shift rod height and has a chart to hand they can look this up for me then I would appreciate it. I've ordered the original service manual which will probably have that data in, but it'll take a few weeks as its coming from US > Sweden where I live.
 
from CLYMER manual long shaft , 1975-1981, 1985-on 20 29/32 +/- 1/32
electric start, right?
i had same clutch dog damage, had it machined, just a little taken off to make it flat, one hour min. rate, about same as cost as new one
 
@scalhound thank you very much! Much appreciated

RE the shift rod height yes its a 1980 electric start 55HP. So If I understood Clymer says its 29/32 +/- 1/32 (this is in inches right?).

Yeah the clutch dog is going to set me back 125 USD from a Swedish sourcer who has one in the european warehouse (marineparts.se) that can get it to me in 5-7 days (takes a whole lot longer from US and lots of customs issues).

Im curious about a couple of things...

a) When you replaced your clutch dog that looked I guess similar to mine (rounded) did the gears go in nice and smoothly after that?

b) The clutch dogs are apparently machined to fit the specific gears from what I've read. I know from the previous owner has reconditioned the gears at some point. I'm a bit worried that by getting a new dog it may not work smoothly with those gears being somehow out of line. I presume however you would have had the same issue if you didnt replace your gears also? Did you notice any problems there or is that on of those perfectionist/purist type rules that actually in practise doesnt matter a whole let?

Thanks!
 
Also Scalhound when these measurements say 29/32 do i interpret that to mean "between 29 and 32"? If so which number is best to pick since I have no clue what the old measurement was?, the middle I guess at 30.5" ?
 
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